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jimbobber

boat project over the winter!

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Wow, some serious rot there. Good thing you were on top of that potential disaster! Make you wonder how many other boats are like that out there? What are you going to use for replacement wood? I know you can get regular marine ply just about anywhere. Johnsons Workbench in Charlotte has or can get just about any type of marine ply you want, I believe.

http://www.theworkbench.com/pdf/plywood.pdf

They've even got Merante, Teak, Okoume, listed on their site. Pretty expensive , though.

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I will probly get marine grade ply wood and will soak it in resin ,then put a layer of glass on it before it goes into the boat,I have not decided yet if i am going to glass it to the hull or glue yet and if im going to make it all one piece or do it in sections.I will have probly two or three more work times before i have to make those dedcisions i still have to cut some floor out so i can get to the bottom of the hull, then i have to sand and clean.My goal is to be putting the new transom in the first of February so i have march to put her back together.

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Jim, glad to see your doing the work of replacing it completely. Its a lot of work but take your time and do it right and it will be well worth it. If your questioning what matierial to use, talk to a glass shop, they are ussually semi-helpfull. I would seriously consider using a composite and not a plywood. It is much more expensive but its impermeable by moisture. Otherwise, I'd use 2 layers of 3/4" good marine ply epoxied together and then set into your exisiting outer "shell" of a transom and epoxied in with some thickend high density epoxy. Clamp it will, let it cure, then start laying in your glass towards the inside of the boat. My favorite is the west system epoxy, its nearly dummy proof, and I've found that jamestowndistributors.com has about the best prices and great customer service. I'm doing a good amount of glass work myself this winter with new deck panels and some stringer work, if I can help with any questions, please just pm me. Best of luck with your project, I'll be following your thread.

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I'm seriously thinking about going with a composite with mine, too. Total Plastics Inc has an outlet in Kalamazoo & Grand Rapids if you're interested and carries the Coosa Bluewater 26.

http://www.totalplastics.com/about_us/contact

I haven't contacted them yet, but the stuff is very expensive, but no more rot worries, though.

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worked on the boat today for about 6 hrs . :) I was able to remove part of the floor and stringers and remove the rest of the transom today. Next time out i will be ruff sanding and getting it ready for making a template for the new wood!:thumb: I am pleased with the progress and the stringers are wet but not rotted so that makes me happy! I have a month or so for it to dry out so i can proceed with the glass work, here a few pics.In all i have 9 hours in to remove the old wood.

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Very nice work. Are you going to air dry those stringers or put a fan on them? I'm asking cause I remember my dad doing something like yours and putting a fan on some of the wood only to see it split like crazy from being dried so quickly.

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Jim

looks great so far, been there and done that along with the stringers just take your time and make sure it all bonds together tight with no air pockets. I had a good friend redo his four winns last year and used a new composite fiberglass board that was priced around the same price as marine board and was pretty easy to cut and glass over and with no wood in it you don't have to worry about rot again. If you want the companies name I can get it for you just give me a shout.

Luremaker

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Im looking at the coosa bluewater 26 any one use this stuff yet? I think I will call on it this week . Also my transom was 3/4 thick then 2" thick for 2 foot of the middle would it hurt if i made the whole transom 2 " finish thickness? I would think it would be fine just be stronger any thaughts?

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Im looking at the coosa bluewater 26 any one use this stuff yet? I think I will call on it this week . Also my transom was 3/4 thick then 2" thick for 2 foot of the middle would it hurt if i made the whole transom 2 " finish thickness? I would think it would be fine just be stronger any thaughts?

Jim, You and I think alike. In this case more is better. Maybe the pros will chime in.

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Jim

making it 2" thick is fine just make sure that all of your line and bolts and flanges will fit before you lay it all up. some spots the manifolds will just about hit the trans at 3/4 so look at that also.

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Jim

looks great so far, been there and done that along with the stringers just take your time and make sure it all bonds together tight with no air pockets. I had a good friend redo his four winns last year and used a new composite fiberglass board that was priced around the same price as marine board and was pretty easy to cut and glass over and with no wood in it you don't have to worry about rot again. If you want the companies name I can get it for you just give me a shout.

Luremaker

Can you send me the companies name?

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Catrina Wenman

Composites One

Goshen, IN

Office: 574-533-0591

Direct: 574-975-0163

FX: 574-533-6247

Ok heres the info on the board that my friend used if you need more in you can email me and I will send on his email to you.

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Thanks Larry, I may give them a call ,I called total plastics and the bluewater 26 composite was $400 for a 4x8 sheet1.5" an $185 per 4x8 sheet of 3/4" I think im going to just get marine plywood its $82.00 per sheet.I worked on the boat last weekend and have a couple more pics, I did all the grinding and sanding! What a pain!I blew a lot of the dust out of the boat with a leaf blower. I hope to get out Thursday pm to clean and start templates.

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Thanks for posting, I really enjoy seeing the process and learning a bit even though I hope I never have to do it - nice work! One thing I have been curious about since you started. How did you know that the transom was flexing - were you actually able to see it somehow?

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Jim

If I can help out with any other Info I would be happy to share with you and anyone else, I know that this is a pain in the butt job ,I did it with my last boat a long with the floor and stringers ,but I like a challenge. I find it fun and rewarding

Luremaker

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Shane, Ya you could see the transom flex when i pushed my manual trim tabs up and it sounded hollow is some of the spots.The boat was also leaking and i had to tighten the transom bolts twice this last summer, that was a challenge in its self took about two hrs each time.

Larry, I like projects to and dont let to much scare me, if i dont know how to do something i learn it and do it ,im always up to a good challenge then I know it will be done right with no short cuts.

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I worked on the boat again today I only could work for a couple of hours but in that time I cleaned some of the glass dust out of the boat and made my template for the plywood woohoo!:grin: I'm going to get my marine grade plywood this week and start making the new transom.

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A lot of hard work there Jim. At least now things will be going back together. The prep work is always the toughest and most important. You do nice work.:thumb:

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cut the plywood for the transom last night and took it for a test fit tonight perfect!:thumb: the plan now is saturday im going to laminate the center board, then seal the whole thing with resin ,and then a wet on wet layup with a layer of chop strand. Then a good sanding and it will be time to put it in the boat! woohoo!!:grin: here is a pic of the new transom in the boat for the test fit.

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