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  2. Dave, Why do you use fluorocarbon leader on mono lines? Why not just run mono? I have 4 reels loaded with mono and were planning on using them for my surface lines for Coho. Back in the late 70's early 80's, before the rise of Braid, wire, lead and copper, our reels were loaded with mono. And we put our share of fish in the box, losing a few but none because the line broke. Into the 90's and beyond, my Salmon fishing was limited to Charter's for lack of a boat, or friends with a boat that actually want to go out and fish!. So, I never really kept up with all the changes in line; so I am ignorant on that subject. Right now, I have so many irons in the fire, it's not a wabbit hole I want to get into. This is going to be a year of learning and relearning, which was expected. Just itching to get that first fish of 2024 in the box, and any advice or helpful hints along the way are much appreciated. Paul
  3. Dave, Thank you for the info. Finding out Leader Length is quite the conundrum to decipher. In YouTube videos, everyone has a different opinion on leader length. A lot depends on how you have your line deployed, whether it be dipsy divers, jet divers, down-rigger, then add spin doctors or flashers, and let's not forget shallow diver flat lines. I've seen or read about lengths from 4 foot to as much as 50 feet. Most seem to settle on 3 to 4 wingspan lengths (approximatlet 18 - 24 ft), as you measure out the leader and some line loss from tying the FG Knot. I'm going to be working on leaders this weekend, so I am going to make several, but in different lengths and see what works best for my situation. 20-30 foot sounds like a sweet spot, so will make several. Thanks again for the recommendation. Paul
  4. That sounds like a good plan. I need to gather up my lead. I got pieces scattered here, there and everywhere in my garage. Will get in touch with you later today. My number is 219-306-1225. Paul
  5. I use 30 ft of fluorocarbon on mono and braid and lead core 15 lbs line till I start to run into more of the green water and the lake starts to get cloudy. Then I switch to the 20lbs on all the above mentioned. On all the copper long lines I run the 20lbs all year long and usually I use a little longer lead to get more shock absorption, I’ll run out 45-60 ft . Paul that’s a good starting point. Don’t be afraid to experiment with longer or shorter leads depending on depth of water and clarity. I let others chime in with what they use. Good fishing.
  6. I "normally" go out of East Chicago in March and April - by June I've usually switched over to Portage. Occasionally, (when the wind it NE) I head for Hammond Marina to fish at Calumet Harbor. I live in Newton County about halfway from Roselawn to Rensselaer near the Dairy Farm. I'd be happy for you to come down and we can meet up. We'll melt some lead and make some weights for you and swap fish stories. I will be back next week. Pick a nice sunny day, and the porch is always a comfortable spot to fire up the fish cooker. My boat is here - the fifth one I've commissioned for Lake Michigan over the years, so it's pretty well set up. Call or text 219-819-0000
  7. Last week
  8. Wow! Now that is thinking outside the box, and I like it! Yes, some photo posts would be great! Where is your home port? From what I surmise, we are around the same age (64-65). Would love to meet you in person for a beer (or three) and talk Boats, Salmon fishing and give you some of this Lead because you have been providing some great advice! I do appreciate you sharing; however, sharing is a two-way street. Since I presently don't have much to offer in terms of Sage advice, I do have a small cache of Lead I'm willing to share with only you, since I already committed to purchasing 2 - 10 lbers. At most I will only need enough to make a couple back up balls. I can always get more Lead.......admittedly yes, I'm a Scrapper!
  9. Paul: You already have the molds you need and if you have the lead and experience you can easily make your own. They are called empty beer cans. If I were home I'd send you some photos and instructions on how to make your own. Do they work? As a charter operator, I have to use gear that works and I can afford to pay. It wasn't always that way and 40 years ago when I started fishing Lake Michigan, I learned about the "can weights" from some guys that worked at (then) Inland Steel. They worked and since then I've used round balls, fish shaped, pancakes and others. If you look on my boat, all I have are 12 or 16 ounce can-weights. They absolutely work as good or better than any of the others. (12 ouncers are @ 10#, 16 ounce = 12#. And when the Coke or Miller Lite gets all scratched up, melt em down and fill a new can. I melt the lead in a small cast iron skillet on a propane fish fryer. If you are interested, I'll post some photos how to do it mostly safely without burning the paint off the cans when I get home middle of next week.
  10. Appreciate the info. I should probably just buy a mold because I have about 40-50 # of lead I've collected for recycling never cashed in, Lead melts around 620 deg, and with 35 yrs of steel industry experience (including melting, pouring and casting), this wouldn't be difficult. However, with other boat preseason prep, I bit the bullet and secured 2 new from Ebay for $74 with the shipping. Thought I got a really good deal; "but it's only a deal if you think you got a deal," says my wife! These were offered in 5 or 6 different weight sizes, up to 15 pounders. Know of anyone interested in a couple of 6 lbers? LOL
  11. look up Schellfish charters on the internet. He lives over in Crete, IL, so not far. He makes and sells 12 pound weights. Usually, there are a few guys that make rigger weights posting on The Southend who pour a bunch and post them on that site. You'll see lot's of guys swearing by round balls, pancake, fish shaped, etc. They ALL work and if theres a difference between them, it's slight.
  12. Sorry for late report. On friend’s boat: Crazy, 23 for like 30 down near Cook plant in 8-22fow; 11 hos n 12 browns; released all browns n dink ho. South wind and got majority of fish on north troll aka downhill, trolled at 2.3-2.9 mph. Ran 14 lines: 2 2C, 2 1C, and 4 high lines aka 4 Walleye boards each side. 2 mini dipseys, 2 rigs and 2 cones out so far you can barely see them. Everything took fish. Best body bait was of course Brads version of the thin fin in red w/black squiggles; mini spoons: gold double or crush; gold yl/or/striped, nothing on nascar but changed to greasy ckn wing n got few on that; first two spoons had those very little oval spinners at hook end too. That’s old man, me in top pic. Looks like we’re about month earlier than usual. My boat get shrink wrap pulledwe tomorrow.
  13. Yes, they are pricey! Ebay seems to have the best prices on downrigger balls, and some are brand new or out of the box new, but never used. I am not too proud or bougee to save a few dollars here and there.
  14. I know you just bought a boat so you’re used to spending $$$ but cannonball prices are stupid these days.
  15. Also, good call on going with big planers as opposed to in-line boards. If all you want is dead fish in the box, the in-lines are great. If you want to have some sport when reeling in the cohos and walleyes, big boards are the way to do (and you'll still end up with plenty of fish in the cooler).
  16. you can get by with 10s and they aren't that hard to crank up. I've not used a 6 pound before, but at salmon speeds - say 2.5 mph average, I'd guess you'd get a lot of blow-back even if you are only dropping them 25-30 feet. More than that blowback would be rediculous.
  17. 10-12 and those are on manuals. Anything lighter and you get a ton of blow back and poor hook up’s.
  18. Thank you for the info regarding Indiana-based fishing info. Maybe in the next year or two, I'll go to electric downriggers.Excluding the purchase price of the boat, I've already got over $10k into the upgrades, equipment purchases, etc. So they'll have to wait, for now! Did not want to turn them down as they were free from one of the friends who owned the boat we fished from back in the day. Not installing a Planer mast. The roof of the helm sits 8-10 foot above the water, so I opted to do quick-release roof mounts, pulleys on shock cords, and planer board snubbers. Saw this set-up crush it on a Lake Erie Walleye Charter last year. Was so f...ing impressed with the simplicity of this concept, I just knew I had to have it for my boat! Now that I'm about $1500 into this project, it's going to be time soon for the rubber to meet the road! We'll see how they work for Salmon. What weight ball do you use on your downriggers? I have 2 - six pounders and 1 - four pounder. Was planning on running both 6's. Paul
  19. Dave, Again, thank you for the good advice and info. I will check out those YouTube vids! I was planning on posting whether it's a good day or not so good day. Notice no mention of bad day; let's face it, if you are out on your boat, it ISN'T a bad day! Back in the day, I used to keep a pocket notebook to log specific fishing info, even though I did not own the boat. Since I have a nice, unused journal, it will be my Captain's Log and the plan is to use it for fishing, as well as general boating. I'm pushing 65 and forgetting is easier than remembering, so I've learned to write it down! Paul
  20. Thank you for the response. I'm going to find out first-hand, since I ordered a wrist-spool of fluoro-leader and another spool of just fluorocarbon fishline last night. While on this subject though, how long is your typical leader in your set-up? It's been a minute, or 15, since I was the one making lure & line set-up choices. So many things have changed, especially with line (braid, lead braid, copper braid, fluoro, mono, etc). Out of 16 rods/reels spooled, 3 have mono, 4 lead-core braid, 4 with copper braid, and 5 with just braid. What has been your experience with the various lines?
  21. If I’m not mistaken fluorocarbon line is different then fluorocarbon leader. Regular fluorocarbon line is thinner at same weight and softer more pliable. Fluorocarbon leader is thicker and is more resistant to fraying, also just a little stiffer, but has the same characteristics as the regular fluorocarbon. I’ve been using 15lbs and 20lbs fluorocarbon leader for the last couple years and it’s worked very well.
  22. Welcome Paul to the sight. Ed is right it’s slow this time of year. Keep watching for posts as boats start to come out of storage. You can also go on You Tube and watch Reel to Reel or Tangle Tackle, they do a great job about what current tackle is hitting and a lot of great information. Paul don’t forget when you post to give the good and the bad, sometimes knowing where a person got skunked is just as important, also giving as much information as possible really helps, for example, water temp at what depth, direction of troll, speed over ground, speed at ball, rods and spread , what lines were hitting, and so on. Paul glad to have you and love the boat.
  23. Man with a plan, I love it. If the plan is fluid, I'd not spring for the power planer mast. You only have to crank them in once a day and you can do that pretty easy even with bigger boards. If you are only going to fish lake Erie with downriggers, the manual crankers will be fine. If you are mostly going to stay in Indiana waters of Lake Michigan, the manual riggers will be okay. Still, electrics are a convenience, like manual vs. hand cranked car windows and don't forgert you will crank them multiple times each trip. Manual riggers are much more compact, in general, if that's an issue. You might want to look up www.thesouthend.org for Indiana-based fishing info.
  24. Welcome to GLF! Things slow down in the winter months and should pick up in a couple months when everyone starts trolling again.
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