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Winterizing inboard/outboard ?'s


sslopok

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I decided to winterize my trophy by myself instead of paying 150 bux. Just wanted to make sure I covered everything. It has the 4.3 motor.

1. I took out the 2 plugs on the block and 2 plugs on the exhaust manifolds and let all the water drain.

2. I then put the drain plugs back in.

3. I then took the manifold hoses off the thermostat housing and poured 1/2 gallon of rv antifreeze in each.

4. Then I took main hose off the thermostat housing and poured in antifreeze until the antifreeze started coming out of the housing.

5. I poured some anitfreeze into the bilge and ran pump.

The ethanol free fuel has already had seafoam added to it prior t last trip out. Do I need to replace the fuel filter/water seperator before winter, or should I just replace it in spring?

I am also going to replace the lower unit gear oil after the lions' game.

I read online that antifreeze should have been coming out of lower unit but none came out.

Let me know if I missed anything.

Thanks

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I usually change the engine oil and filter before draining the engine block. After the oil change. I let the engine come up to temp while checking the filter for leaks and then I fog the engine. Of course you need to have the earmuffs on the out drive to run the engine. I usually loosen the belts and pull the out drive to grease the spline and U Joint. I usually change out my fuel filters in the Spring after a warm up run on the driveway.:)

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I am going to change the oil in the spring when I get her back out. I didn't realize how much gear lube i/o lower units took. I had to go grab more and have to finish filling it up tomorrow.

Thanks Frank!

Your welcome Brandon. Typically about 1-1/2 Qts of lube. I use the Mercruiser High Performance. I try to always have 2 qts on the shelf. As soon as I change it it's on the list of things to get. Try and make the boat Priority1. LOL :lol:

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Welcome Bradon

I have a 4.3 also. I may over kill When i winterize mine But I drain mine in the same fashion ,Remember when you drain the manifolds make sure you stick a pc of wire or small screwdriver in the drain plug hole. The reason is the mud the you sucks up gets packed in the manifold and you will get some water to drain but there is still alot left in there. And what get's left will freeze and crack them.

I also back pump antifreeze into the block and manifold so if there is any water left it is mixed with antifreeze. It really dose not take any longer to do this and I never have had a crack block or manifold. For $7 it's the worth its weight in gold for me.

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Larry,

I did notice that the starboard manifolf had some crud packed in. I am not sure what you mean by backflushing. If I dumped 2 gallons into block via lower cooling hose and let it run out the thermostat housing, and 1/2 gallon into each manifold hose, wouldn't that mix enough with left over water to prevent any cracking?

Thanks?

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So I need to put the muffs on and warm up the motor and then do the antifreeze thing again? Sounds like I may have wasted money nd have to go buy more antifreeze.

I finished the lower unit gear oil change after work.

Brandon

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Brandon

When I say back flushing I mean, I have a bottle pump the I bought from auto zone for a few buck that fits the antifreeze gal bottle and i put a fitting in the block drain(both sides) and pump it full with antifreeze, about a gal and a half and put some in the manifold(about 2cups). I never have warmed the engine I do it cold but you can do it warm. by doing it this way you pump antifreeze to every part of the motor. I just have been doing it this way for year and have had great luck. May be over kill but $7.00 of antifreeze is far cheaper then $1,500 for a new motor.

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Kevin,

I did the same thing and added about 2 gallons of antifreeze into the large hose until antifreeze came out of the the thermostat housing. Could I just undo the drain plugs on the block and manifolds and see if it comes out straight antifreeze? Would it matter that when I added antifreeze that the drive was in trailer position? I definitely don't want issues in the spring.

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This will be the first time for me to winterize mine solo. My buddy who has been doing it (for a great price) moved out of state. He rigged up an old bilge pump, hooked to a battery for power, and connected a hose from the pump to earmuffs. Then we would put anitfreeze in a giant storage tote, put the pump in the deepest corner and turn it on. Filled the motor right up. Of course I will be pulling the petcocks and draining as much water as possible before filling. I don't have an extra bilge pump, so I will likely do it the old fashioned way. Pull the outdrive and grease the knuckle and splines, and fog too. Along with a simple oil change. Just need to find the time to do it

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I did most of mine last weekend while the weather was still nice. I add SeaFoam to the remaining gas in the tank. I try to run it as low as possible at the end of the season. I normally run the motor for 1/2 hour to let everything warm up. Then I drain the oil from the motor and outdrive. After that I change the filter and fill the oil and gear lube. Then I run the motor for another 1/2 hour or so. Then shut it down and drain the water out of the petcocks and take out the thermostat and close the housing back up. I also pull off the spark arrestor off the air intake. I have a funnel and short length of hose that I attach to the muffs and fill them up with antifreeze and start the engine. Then I dump 5 gallons of antifreeze through the system with the engine running. When the 5th is in the funnel I grab the fogging oil and start hosing down the air intake. It normally stalls out by the time the 6th gallon is in there or if not I just shut it down. Then take off the thermostat housing and put the thermostat back in. After that I dump antifreeze into all the drain and by both bilge pumps. Then I manually run both bilge pumps to suck in water. After that I pull the hose off the raw water pump and stick it into the antifreeze jug and run that. Then I put Damp-Rid in the cabin and scatter a bunch of dryer sheets all around the boat. Put the cover on and then I'm done.

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I am going to change the oil in the spring when I get her back out. I didn't realize how much gear lube i/o lower units took. I had to go grab more and have to finish filling it up tomorrow.

Thanks Frank!

The reason that they advise changing it in the fall is because any water or dirt that has collected in the oil will settle out and then you could pollute your new engine in the spring. That's the same reason the advise you to change your outdrive lube.

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