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DKuiper

Voltage Regulator Problem?

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I am possibly having voltage regulator problems with my 2001, 90 hp, 2 stroke mercury outboard.

The symtoms:

1. Erratic tachometer readings. When cruising it will fluctuate between

2000 rpm and 4000 rpm.

2. When I shut her down the tach will still read 1200 rpm. When I turn the key on, without starting the motor, and then turn it to the off position the tach will go to 0.

3. I have forgotten to do that a couple of times and ended up with a dead battery.

I took the tach to D&R sports in Kazoo and was told that they seldom went bad and that I probably had a bad regulator. They can not, or will not, check out the regulator until July 14th.

Any one have advice on how I might get this checked out before then. Hate to be sidelined that long. I have been gill fishing with this problem with some confidence that I'll be able to back to ramps if the battery goes dead out there. Just hesitant to get out on the big lake without this problem being fixed.

Any info is appreciated.

Duane

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Duane, Most voltage regulators are inexpensive and can be done by anyone with mechanical abilities. They are built into the alternators. Heck you can replace the whole darn alternator for about 75 bucks. Here is a link for some marine alternators. Before doing anything check your battery connections and grounds.

http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/c-7743-mercruiser.aspx

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Thanks for the info and website, Frank. But, my mercury is an outboard, which is a different set up than a MercCruiser. I am a decent mechanic, airplane engines used to be what I worked on, but I am not sure how to go about this problem. Sure would be glad to solve my problem for $75! D&R wants $99 to just test to see if if is the VR! Leaders Marine will do it for $89! What a deal, huh?

Any ideas that might be helpful I'd appreciate.

Duane

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Duane, Don't give up so easily that site also has Outboard alternators.

Here is another link. Same place different page.

http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/c-7779-mariner.aspx

Do you have a voltmeter on your dash? How many Volts does it read with engine rev @ about 1000?? After start up it should be about 14.5 VDC. If you don't have a meter on the dash put a multimeter on the battery. Once you determine if it's bad a local alternator starter shop or yourself can troubleshoot and repair it. The toughest part of working on outboards is everything is jammed in so tightly. GL my friend.

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Duane

IF you have to order any parts try Iboat .com they have great prices on there parts.

When the vr went out on my johnson 150 it was a pc of cake to fix the bad thing is the fly wheel has to come off to do so. It could be your stater, that is what dose the charging. But I would pull the battery and see if you have a bad cell in it first. Tach will not drain the battery if the key is off. something has to be left on to drain the battery. Or its not charging.

luremaker

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The voltmete on the dash reads about 14 volts when the engine is running. I have not seen any big fluctuation in this. When the batterys are charged, it reads 12 volts when not running. Batterys do not run down if I make sure I shut the ignition off, turn it on and then off again. The VR looks like a white metal casting with an epoxy fill, with 5 wires coming out of it. About 2 1/2 X 2 1/2 X 3/4 inch thick. I have found similar looking VRs on iboat, but nothing that has five wires coming out of it? I would have thought that the charging of the batterys while running would come from the flywheel. Doesn't seem to me that the starter can be the charger once the bendix is disengaged. I will be checking the batterys for dead cells and tight connections.

Thanks for the ideas.

Duane

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Thanks Frank! Looks like just the info I was looking for. I'll be running the test procedure sometime this week and hopefully isolate my problem. Looks like ebay will be able to provide a replacement if that is what I need.

Great help like that is really appreciated.

Duane

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