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The only one I know of is the Protroll trollers handbook. But It has some controversial data on the Copper lines so not too many guys swear by it. It will be interesting this year as there are 2 companies coming out with probes that will attach to your line so you can measure depth and temperature. This way you can tell exactly how deep they go. Having 2 probes is my goal, since turn changes will affect the depth of a lure. I'd like to see the difference between inside and outside dipsys, leadcores and coppers. As far as the wire lines, on a #2 setting, you can guess the depth is about half the distance out. That also depends on the boat and currant speed also. The faster that is, the higher it will be. Up till now, the only real way to know the depth is to let it out in whatever depth you happen to be in untill it starts to bounce the bottom. Then you know for sure, the distance for that depth, that speed, that dipsy setting, that lure. There are a lot of variables that go into it. Sounds like a science experiment for my 11 year old next year.

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I have been thinking about buying the probe ,but its not going to give you an exact depth either . your putting a probe the size of a calculator on the end of you line , so its going to track differently than with out.It should get you close . The price of the probe is reasonable compared to the speed/temp unit they sell. The fact that you can lower the probe and it will read the temp in 5 ft intervals is great. and its recorded. Kell outdoors is one of the company's and makes the Depth Raider too. I have protrolls guide and found that my depths were different than what they showed in the book, closer to what was printed on the sheet that came with the dipsey diver.

I was looking into buying one of these probes that were sold buy cabelas but they had discontinued them , now they are back and 2 company have them .

Are you the same Rodfather on youtube?

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once you start fishing wire divers, you will get a feel for them. the more you fish with them, and scrap the bottom with them :) , you can judge whether they are in the desired target zone.

another method, if you are marking fish, is to start them higher and periodically lower them deeper. once you find where your divers are getting hits you can try to correlate the amount of line out with where you believe the fish are coming from biased on your fish finder.

hope that makes sense....it does in my head!

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Jim, if you going to setup a wire diver, get 2-124 walker divers, set them at 1. They will dive at a rate of %50 of your line out.

Wouldn't that be the same as using LJ dipseys in a #1 with the ring?

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once you start fishing wire divers, you will get a feel for them. the more you fish with them, and scrap the bottom with them :) , you can judge whether they are in the desired target zone.

another method, if you are marking fish, is to start them higher and periodically lower them deeper. once you find where your divers are getting hits you can try to correlate the amount of line out with where you believe the fish are coming from biased on your fish finder.

hope that makes sense....it does in my head!

it makes scene but my budget is set pretty tight and don't want to lose any hardware on the bottom.

How often are you dragging on the bottom? I have heard of dragging balls or bouncing balls for Lakers, but not divers. Does this work and is you lure higher in the water column as not to catch the bottom.

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Yes, thats me. I have one of those cabela probes, but it only went to 100 ft, works great. Never had the guts to troll with it though since it "was" irreplaceable.

you can find me on youtube as woofnfish

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it makes scene but my budget is set pretty tight and don't want to lose any hardware on the bottom.

How often are you dragging on the bottom? I have heard of dragging balls or bouncing balls for Lakers, but not divers. Does this work and is you lure higher in the water column as not to catch the bottom.

i didn't mean intentionally bouncing the bottom. that is usually by accident, ha! but you figure out how deep your diver is though!

Wouldn't that be the same as using LJ dipseys in a #1 with the ring?

the 124 walker divers come stock with a bigger weight then the 107's or a #1 luhr jensen dipsy diver, it would be more comparable to a luhr jensen magnum dipsy diver.

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Wouldn't that be the same as using LJ dipseys in a #1 with the ring?

Jim I have the two sitting side by side. Yes they are the same size with the big ring, but when I put them on the scale, the lj weighs .352 lb, and the Walker weighs .617 lb.

BTW, my LJ diver will run at 1 to 3 ratio (1 down for 3 out) set at 2.5 with the big ring, off a wire rig.

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Jim I have the two sitting side by side. Yes they are the same size with the big ring, but when I put them on the scale, the lj weighs .352 lb, and the Walker weighs .617 lb.

BTW, my LJ diver will run at 1 to 3 ratio (1 down for 3 out) set at 2.5 with the big ring, off a wire rig.

Do the Walker divers have rings, or just run naked?

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Walkers don't have rings and they have more colors. I run alot of them mainly because of colors, no ring and price. Fit and finish is LJ strong suit, Walkers deeper divers in Metallic colors fading in the sun is a big dissapointment to say the least.

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i personally do not like the larger weights of the 124 walkers, but do like the fact there is no ring. taking advice from a magazine article i once read, not sure when or who wrote it, i use the 124 walkers but replace the bottom side with 107 bottoms and weights. The only downside is buying two divers to make one but its worth it to me to not have to deal with rings.

i also prefer the walkers because they "click" and lock on each setting. seems like the LJ divers get sloppy over time no matter how tight you have the screw.

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