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Wire Diver tips

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I'm still using braid on my divers but am hearing I should transition to wire. Could you educate me a bit on wire divers?

- Are there different brands/test of wire and what is recommended?

- Will I likely need a larger capacity reel vs. my current braid reels?

- Will I need different poles/line guides?

- Do you use braid backer, then wire, then a leader? If so, use a knot or a swivel for the connections?

Anything else I missed that you learned the hard way and can help me avoid?

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- Are there different brands/test of wire and what is recommended?

  • Lots of different brands -- Blood Run, Torpedo, Mason, Malin.
  • Most common used is 30# test but also available in 20 & 40# test
  • Most brands are 7 strand; Torpedo Diver sells a 19 strand

- Will I likely need a larger capacity reel vs. my current braid reels?

  • Probably not and likely smaller will work - An Okuma 30 series, Shimano 600, Daiwa 47 will hold 1,000' of wire nearly perfectly with only enough mono to cover the spool and not let the wire slip on the spool. I actually have a set screw/post on my reels to tie the wire too and don't need the mono base.

- Will I need different poles/line guides?

  • I am a strong advocate for roller rods for wire. "Regular" ceramic or oxcide guide rods will work but the friction is significantly reduced with rollers and this makes it easier to reel in. Ideally the rod would also have a swivel tip roller tip guide -- Shimano, Daiwa and Okuma all offer models with the swivel tip. On a regular rod, most people go to a Twillie Tip or a roller instead of the ring guide.

- Do you use braid backer, then wire, then a leader? If so, use a knot or a swivel for the connections?

  • 1,000' of wire on the reel with only enough backing to prevent slipping on the spool. When i used backing I connected it to the wire with a small Spro swivel. Never an issue with this getting off the reel since all 1,000' of wire would have to be out first. The most I have ever had a fish take out on wire is 800'.
  • No leader -- direct to the diver with a strong snap swivel.
  • Knot for the wire to Spro backing connection and/or the terminal snap swivel is an easy to tie knot described as an overhand knot. Here is a link to a how to for the knot: http://www.lotsa.org/Wire%20Line%20Knot.htm

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My questions and references were related to dipsy and slide divers. Sorry, should have been more specific.

Now I'm really confused too haha!

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Is a diver different from a dipsy?

"Diver" to me means any of the various round diver discs which include the Luhr Jensen Dipsy Diver, FishHawk/Walker Deeper Diver, and the Slide Diver/Slide Diver Lite Bite.

All have their own naming as far as size but the ones I most commonly use are the ~4.25" diameter divers. Depending on the brand you can increase the disc size with add on rings and/or heavier weights to get them to dive deeper.

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Thanks Ryan - very informative. Regarding the last leader/connection question - how about when using a slide diver?

I don't use the Slide Divers for wire -- I use them on my braid outfits as high divers. Have talked to those that have but they add a segment of braid on the end of the wire to have the Slide Diver clamp onto and then slide down after the hit. Personally I think the wire going directly to the diver is one of the reasons it works so well.

Downside to not using the Slide Diver is the distance from the diver to the flasher is somewhat limited to the length of your rod and/or willingness to handline the fish to the net. I usually run a 6-7' "leader" of 50# Big Game mono from the diver to the flasher and then the 40"+ 50# flouro leader to the meat head. That length still makes for some interesting netting at times.

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I run wire with dipsy rods and a twilli tip. No problems so far with the guides. I buy 1000 feet and then split it between two. Big thing is keep it tight when spooling up because any slack and you have a rats nest. I use torpedo 7 strand 30lb. I like to check the first 200 feet every couple of trips for abrasion, kinks etc. This winter i'm switching up to blood run tackle trolling wire for something different. I have their copper and its awesome.

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Bob , don't know if you got your answer about the terminating end of the wire , the knot I use is simple create a loop with the wire put that thru the eye of the swivel then over the swivel tighten that up, then above the swivel tie two overhand knots and tighten , I also put a beed above the swivel when your done fishing close the swivel and reel against the beed til tight .hope this helps jimbobber

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Seeing as Wire was just added to my spread over the last summer i ran into a situation where i was only landing about a 3rd of my hookups. The fish were coming off right off the bat and the drags were not set loose enough. Well after messing around for awhile and constantly tightening the drags i finally found some old releases in the boat. I wired them up to the real seat and took the pinch pads and placed them on the wire just in front of the reel. Loosened the drags and my percentages went up to about 75 percent. It made a big difference for me. I have Okuma convector 45's and granted they are not probably the best reel for this application but they get the job done. I am running wire on both sides of the boat now and really like feeling everything the fish does when fighting them. I have one roller rod and one converted 10.5 ft ugly stick with a twilli tip and it works out great.

Grizzly.

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I also put a bead on the wire so i can reel the bead and swivel up to the tip when not in use. I do not like to take my rod apart for storage.If you leave the swivel on and take the rod in half it puts a bend in the wire.

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I do the bead too but also add a couple inches of surgical tubing. It acts like a spring when you reel to the tip and you don't need to keep the drag as tight.

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