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SeaCatMich

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Everything posted by SeaCatMich

  1. Three summers ago when the lake was 70* from the surface down to 90', I spent most of the summer with riggers down 150'+. Caught a lot of Kings 220 to 250' down on riggers using flashers and meat rigs. That got me thinking about a better way to get down deep. Did some Internet research and in the Pacific NW vertical jigging is used frequently. So a that fallI gave it a try on deep Kings is using ZZinger and BuzzBomb jigging "spoons" down 200 to 300'. On days with a one to two foot chop the deep water off Little Sable and Big Sable points holds lots of fish in mid day. After locating schools of bait and hooks on the graph, I drift and jig for them on 7' Taloras with 20# Power Pro and a 15' fluoro leader. The ones I have found that respond best are when fishing 5' above or ~10' below the bait clouds. The hits are great since you actually get to feel them, plus no boat momentum during the fight -- just you and the fish. Caught a lot of 20# fish this way and one at 32#.
  2. Chamberlains. Basically a Black but a tension adjustment for both the lure and the rod. Allows for a real bend in the rod but separate (lighter) for the lure. Great for spring on Lake Michigan and the mixed bag on Erie & Sag Bay when perch hit but can't pull the line out of the release with a normal tension.
  3. Only problem with what is presented as fact in this article is that it isn't. There has been no statistically significant increase in world average surface temperatures since the beginning of 1997. Talk about an inconvenient truth. Just another excuse to move money from the industrialized western nations to the undeveloped 3rd world through cap & trade and carbon credits.
  4. If it was May I'd say head over to Manistee or Ludington and start looking at how other boats are rigged in the marinas. Since that's not really an option but you do have some time before the boat will go in the water, I would head for the two bigger fishing shows that are happening in March -- Flint Steelheaders in Birch Run (March 7/8/9) and the Ultimate Fishing Show in Grand Rapids (March 20-22). You should be able to see and talk to most/all of the main track & rod holder manufactures or their reps. Then you can put together a plan as to how you want to set the boat up. With that list I'd then contact places like Calumet Marine and Big Papa Sportfishing to have them put together a package deal for what you want. If you choose to go with tracks directly mounted to the boat then pricing out the pieces at Northwoods. Fortunately tracks from Bert's, Traxstech, Cannon and others will allow use of parts from any of the other companies. You also mention that you want to replace the fishfinder and GPS. Lots of good units out there but my general recommendation would be to get a fishfinder system that will allow for multiple displays. It is older now, but my Raymarine setup has a black box sounder that allows me to run a helm display and a stern display. Having the helm unit is great when running out to find fish but when fishing, having the one on the stern is really useful. It makes it really easy to adjust the presentation based on what shows on the fish finder -- if I see a fish 40' deeper than my riggers are running, I can quickly move one down to the fish (and you would be surprised how often it will get hit right away). Some of the newer gear will also let you use a tablet as a secondary display using WiFi or Bluetooth to transmit from the main head unit. You also said "If you could buy what ever you wanted to outfit a new boat" and the one thing you don't list is an auto pilot. If the boat doesn't have one it would be high on my list of things to add. Makes fishing a lot more enjoyable when you are not having to worry about keeping the boat straight on course -- also when running in/out or when cruising. Lots of good models out there for this too with Garmin, Simrad, and Raymarine all having excellent units for your size vessel. You won't know until you get the boat out on the water but a pair of trolling bags is another item you may need/want to look at. Not only do they give you more precise trolling speed control but they will reduce the side to side roll in many sea conditions and make the ride more comfortable. Big Papa and Amish Outfitters both have good bags and a call to either will get you a recommendation for the right size.
  5. Calling usually works better than email in getting hold of Traxstech. If Jeff isn't there he will get back to you pretty quick. Where are you located?
  6. I am a big fan of track systems. Have had them on my last two boats and I love the versatility they provide for different fishing situations. My spring, summer, and fall layouts are all slightly different, plus I also setup different for Lake Michigan salmon than I do when the boat gets trailered to Erie for walleye. My tracks are mounted directly to the gunnel and stern. If I were to do it over, I would go to a raised track instead (picture off Traxstech website below). Main reason is it only requires 2 or 3 of the 6" tracks to be mounted to the boat to mount the traclk pedestals too instead of bolt holes every foot for direct mounted track. Most boats have built in flush mount rod holders and a raised track does not require these to be removed or gone around. In the unusual situation where you have to remove the fishing equipment, the whole track assembly can be removed only leaving the 6" tracks that can then have step pads inserts put in. Very clean look but still all of the functionality of a track system. As far as what to put in the tracks, I have a mix of different brands of equipment: Big Jon vertical trees (board rods), Cannon dual axis ratcheting rod holders (divers), and Traxstech downrigger swivel pedestals. Being able to use the equipment you like best in the tracks from many different manufactures is also great -- and if you don't like it, change it or sell it and try something else without having to drill more holes in the boat. Raised track samples: Pic of Honda Cat's World Cat with Traxstech raised track system:
  7. I think I would go with a low power fish finder without lots of fancy features or extras like GPS that will run the required time off your small battery. Then get an Android or iPhone cell phone or Android or iPad tablet with a built in GPS receiver (all iPhones & android phones will have GPS, not all tablets) and buy the Navionics app. You don't need cell phone service for the GPS to work and even an Android that is running v3 or an early model of v4 can be found pretty cheap used. With the voice and data services turned off the battery should easily get through an average fishing trip. Worst case, get a spare battery to charge and bring along.
  8. Here is the thread about the 2014 event: http://www.greatlakesfisherman.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33507&highlight=swap
  9. Three fell through in Grand Haven on Saturday 2/15 (http://www.mlive.com/news/muskegon/index.ssf/2014/02/ice_is_not_safe_three_reported.html) Didn't slow down too many though. Check out the video on this FaceBook post: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10202012612611556
  10. I used them with very good success in the late '80s for a couple seasons. Ran them clean off riggers mostly. Got away from them when flashers and flies started working much better. I have tried them some over the years since but not much success.
  11. I'm sure that is last year's registration. Aaron has the store closed until March and is also rebuilding the website. Don't know if he will be doing the seminar in 2014 or not. He emailed out invitations to those that attended in past years and have not heard anything yet.
  12. The "meat is a hassle and messy" is easily resolved by being organized and some pre fishing prep time. I have a good quality "12 pack" soft-side cooler that is my bait cooler. It has a reusable ice pack that fits right in the bottom and will keep the bait fresh for a whole trip. My pre trip preparation means that I have both whole bait and strips ready to use when they go in the cooler. No cutting bait on the boat. I started with other brands but have gone to the Big Weenie heads... mainly because they are ready to use right out of the package. Others required that the bait be bent/tuned to get the right roll but I have found the BW heads don't -- they catch fish too. Put the bait in the head and hooks in the bait and put it in the water. I guess compared to just running spoons, plugs, flasher/fly... it does add a little mess but I think you will find it is worth it. 45% of my fish have been on meat in the last 3 years and most of the time that is running it on 3 rods in my 3 license 8 rod spread or 2 rods in my 2 license 6 rod spread. Most of the time it gets the biggest fish... and the strikes are awesome!
  13. The "meat is a hassle and messy" is easily resolved by being organized and some pre fishing prep time. I have a good quality "12 pack" soft-side cooler that is my bait cooler. It has a reusable ice pack that fits right in the bottom and will keep the bait cold for a whole trip. My pre trip preparation means that I have both whole bait and strips ready to use when they go in the cooler. No cutting bait on the boat. I started with other brands but have gone to the Big Weenie heads... mainly because they are ready to use right out of the package. Others required that the bait be bent/tuned to get the right roll but I have found the BW heads don't -- they catch fish too. Put the bait in the head and hooks in the bait and put it in the water. I guess compared to just running spoons, plugs, flasher/fly... it does add a little mess but I think you will find it is worth it. 45% of my fish have been on meat in the last 3 years and most of the time that is running it on 3 rods in my 3 license 8 rod spread or 2 rods in my 2 license 6 rod spread. Most of the time it gets the biggest fish... and the strikes are awesome!
  14. Just register at the site and it will be emailed to you the day after a new show is posted.
  15. I'm really impressed by what I see with the CHIRP. Cost is an additional $250-300 from what I have heard. In spring or if you fish Erie I think the down & side imaging would be useful. At around an additional $100 for DI not too bad. $500 more for SI seems too pricey to me for what I'd use it for.
  16. For the strips I put a little of the powder on them for 4-6 hours before I freeze them (vacuum sealer). Then when I pull them out to use, I open the package and lightly sprinkle a little more of the BW powder on the meat side. I do this at home and put the strips in a small soft-side cooler with a ice pack. By the time I get them out to use on the boat (usually 2-3 hours later) they are thawed enough to use and are plenty tough. If they are not yet thawed and easy to pull apart, I put a little lake water in the bag with them -- but make sure to put back in the cooler to keep them cold when not baiting up.
  17. Are you referring to using strips in the BW meat heads or how to brine them with the BW powder?
  18. I got the sabiki rigs off of eBay. Couldn't find any locally here in Michigan. A couple of months later I posted on the GLA website and got some from Gary at Big Weenie. They have 6 "flies" per setup and I got different colors -- green, yellow, and glow. They all work. The hooks are size 8 and 10 -- look like plain aberdeens. I actually had used them to catch bait down in the keys about 10 years. A guy on the bridge down there was using a special home made rod for the rigs. A typical rod does not work well with the long "leader" and multiple hooks, so I made a couple of the sabiki rods up and they work great. Basically the "rod" is a 7' long piece of 1.5" diameter PVC pipe with a spinning reel taped to one end abouta foot from the end. A 3/4" hold drilled in it about 6" in front of the reel to let the line go through the pipe and out the far end. The sabiki rig reels right up into the pipe/tube when done and I use a rubber band to secure the bell sinker at the end. it doesn't cast great but you can get a rig out 50' or so if needed. Most of the time I just swing the rig out though right along the breakwall. Here is a YouTube that is a pretty good example of what I did to make my nome made rig:
  19. I would call Frank at Calumet Marine to discuss your specific needs and situation with. He is very knowledgeable on the Humminbird units and will know what transducers will work best. Calumet Marine is also a GLF site sponsor. web site: www.calumetmarine.com
  20. The 1100 series uses dual beam transducer technology. It needs a dual frequency transducer at 83 kHz (60* wide beam) and 200 kHz (20* wide beam). Many of the 1100 series units also have side scanning and that requires a triple frequency transducer with a 455 kHz beam as well. All of the units come with a transducer with the appropriate configuration.
  21. I have tried a cast net in the past but when Michigan changed the regs to allow 6 hooks on one rod I started using the Sabiki. I found that Michigan's 8' diameter for the cast net didn't make that very effective if the alewife were not really concentrated.
  22. The last 4 years I have caught fish on meat rigs as early as May. I generally run the smaller meat heads (Big Weenie) with strips behind the small flashers until late May when the water starts stratifying. Then I go with larger heads and strips or whole herring (or alewife). Brined alewife freshly caught off the breakwalls (Holland, Grand Haven, St. Joe) work really well.
  23. Get'm done! Both are fantastic and well worth the effort. Two of my favorite places for fishing ever. The three day head boat trip to the Torgugas is a blast -- have done it twice.
  24. For the backing plate it really depends on how thick the boat's deck/gunnel is where the track is being mounted. Thicker deck = thinner backing plate. Most backing plates I have seen used are 1/4" but on thicker fiberglass even big fender washers are sufficient. I personally prefer the mounting hole pattern on Traxstech over Bert's. I also prefer the textured finish over the "chromed" type finish. When items are moved around in the tracks, it doesn't get scuffed up as much and the set screw marks don't show. Both Traxstech and Bert's offer the finish. Bert's offers a slide in track mount adapter to allow use of rod holders that mount that way. I have a couple of them that I bought thinking I'd use with some Cabela's rod holders with the same mounting type when walleye drifting. I don't use them very much though and would sell them if you are interested.
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