The Salmon Slayer

For the money (about $100 each) the Daiwa SC47LCA are tough to beat for reliability and functionality. The SG47LC drags are smooth and the line counters function well. The SG47LCA’s work well on downrigger rods and dipsy diver rods. The line counters make keeping lead length consistent on downriggers and are truly a must for dipsy diver setups. Another reel worth mentioning is made by Tica, the SeaSpirit SS348R/C, these reels are in the $100 a piece range as well. The Tica SeaSpirit SS series reels offer 5 sealed stainless steel rust resistant ball bearings, a one piece graphite frame, a drive gear with built-in line counter (SS-C), a one-way clutch roller bearing instant anti-reverse, a forged aluminum spool, there’s a one-way clutch roller bearing instant anti-reverse, oversized drag washers, the main gear is brass and the pinion gear is stainless steel. The drags are every bit as good if not better than the Daiwa drag system. The line counter numbers are easy to see and function well and are not bulky like most every other reel manufacture. The handle can be positioned to be a power handle and the handle knob is easily grasped and large enough to be comfortable during a long fight. The only issue I personally have had is with the clickers on a few stopped working after a seasons use. Just another trolling reel to consider.

If you have electric downriggers and believe in the + ion theory for attracking fish then braid will not work because it doesn't conduct electricity. I always worried about the knots with braid too, that and when to replace it before a failure in the braid itself.

I’ve pondered thoughts on if the downrigger weight color has any impact on fish caught too, because here on the Western shore of Lake Michigan the water is pretty much gin clear, you can usually see your weights 25’ down. One of my fishing buddies had an old torpedo shaped metal weight that was chrome plated, when he used it water deeper than 50’ it always produced more fish than weights that were orange. I have had great success on plain lead 10# cannon balls at any depth. I painted a few fish 8# shaped pearl white and found that my catch rate went down. So I repainted them a flat black and saw some improvements in catches. I still use 10# fished weights in white for fishing deeper than 75’ and have success on the white colored weights. I tried silver prism tape on a weight that I ran and saw the catch rate drop until I removed the prism tape. In conclusion I’d say straight lead grey is the best color followed by flat black. Weights that are chrome brite or white work deep. One other important piece of information here is lead length. On my shallow riggers I usually run leads of about 100'. My deep rigger leads are usually 15' to 30'. Short leads just don't seem to be productive in the clear water when run at depths of 20' to 50'.

I ran three downriggers on a 19’ Cruisers with an I/O (no kicker) for 17 years and never had a problem. I used the Cannon Mag 10s which have about a 54†boom. I had high profile swivel bases mounted to a trolling board that was 84†long. The centerline of the downrigger was about 15†from the top of transom. I used the Cannon weight retrievers to bring in the ball when attaching line to the release. I located the middle downrigger off center of the I/O drive because I trolled with the I/O. I was 24†off the centerline of the I/O drive on my setup. Now here’s the best reason to mount that third rigger. My usual catch ratio was 2 to 1 on the middle rigger! I’d always make the middle rigger my deepest. I would run a lead no longer than 25’. Spoons caught more fish than dodgers or flashers with flies. Landing fish is best done clearing a side rigger and taking the fish on that side of the boat.

I'd buy some 18# Sufix 832 leadcore and two Church walleye boards and some snap weights. Make a two color rig (SWR) which can be used off the downriggers as well as the inline planer boards. Make 5 color setup to run off the boards. You'll also need 300yds of super braid for backing if you use a reel that has a maximum capacity of 280yds of 20# line. Use the snap weights for extra depth as the fish move down during the season. Probably cost $130 once you add it up.

Here's a tip for when you're reeling in the inline planer board without a fish. Hold the rod waist height and point the rod at the inline board while reeling. You'll be amazed at the difference in tension, the closer the board gets to the boat you lower the rod tip.

I'd like to add pdf files I've created to my postings at times but can't seem to find out how on the website. Can anyone point me to instructions I've missed on post attachments other than pictures, videos and website address links?

Now that our Government has decided that those of us living in large cities need to only have gasoline that contains 10% Ethanol boat owners have been faced with many questions on what is the best way to use E10 fuels. Daily use isn't too much of a problem with newer gasoline engines though engines from he 50's and 60's have had issues. Storage of a tank of E10 fuel is what most guys wonder about at this time of year. I did some research and thought this point should be added to what has already been posted on storing for winter. Store fuel tanks approximately 7/8 full, minimizing the amount of air space above the fuel inside the fuel tank. Note, storing completely full may allow some fuel spillage as the fuel expanded during hot weather. Do not attempt to seal a vented boat fuel system. The inability to vent could cause damage to the fuel tank or other fuel system components. A fuel stabilizer should be used with E10 fuels as well. Use the stabilizer of your choice as recommended for regular use and for long term storage, E10 fuels are not as problematic in our cars and trucks because we change the fuel in those tanks pretty much weekly. I use StaBil Marine at the regular use dosage rate every time I add gasoline during the season. For winterizing I add Marine StaBil to the remaining fuel I calculate in the tank at the long term storage dose. My fuel tank is 80 gallons and I'm uncomfortable about storing that much fuel in my garage. I've never had a problem storing 25 gallons of E10 fuel for 9 months at the recommended long term storage rate. One other point is to use the gasoline grade one above your engines recommended octane range when fueling up for winter as ALL gasoline loose octane levels over storage. Contrary to the BoatUS tips on E10. Outboard motor manufactures such as Yamaha, Evinrude and Mercury do recommend moisture separators to minimize phase separation issues. From Yamaha: Q. . Can phase separation be reversed? A. No, there are no additives or processes that will recombine phase separated ethanol and gasoline. Q. . Can I use the gasoline remaining after removal of the phase separated water and alcohol? A. No, as mentioned above, the remaining gasoline will have a lower octane level that may not be compatible with your engine. Q. How long can E10 fuel be stored? A. There are many different opinions concerning how long it is ok to store any fuel (E10 fuel or gasoline), 2 weeks, 90 days, 1 year, or longer, before losing the properties that are required for proper and safe operation of your engine. There are too many variables (e.g., the age of fuel when purchased, temperature, humidity, use of stabilizers and the type of storage containers) to accurately predict how long. Q. What can I do to prevent issues with E10 fuel? A. Total prevention of issues may not be possible but there are steps you can take to minimize the occurrence and severity of the negative affects of E10 fuel: • If at all possible, do not use E10 fuel. • Ideally (before switching to E10 fuel) have your fuel tank completely drained to remove any accumulated water. As little as 16 oz. of water can promote phase separation in 25 gals of E10 fuel. The result would be 2.75 gals of unusable ethanol and water mixture on the bottom of the tank. • Install a 10-micron water separating/fuel filter between the boat’s fuel tank and the engine.

I had the same issues with bending the plate. To solve the problem I bought some 1/8" X 1/2" X 1/2' aluminum angle iron and and pop riveted it to the plate backside, ie away from prop. Install two 6" lengths of the angle iron perpendicular to the bend after straightening the plate. Install the angle iron sections about 2" from each side of the plate.

I like to use the Surgeons’ Loop Knot when I make the Dacron section of the harness. http://www.animatedknots.com/surgeonsloop/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com I too prefer to use a single treble hook. I make the loop length between the beaded chain, (I also use a #5 or #6 split ring) so the treble hook barbs are about 1/4 of an inch behind the tail of the plug. Making the harnesses this way pretty much eliminates hook swing wear marks on the plug body. The other advantage is you get a short leader to help guard against abrasion from the fish's teeth. I also use one of the super braid lines in 100# rating, it's thinner and stronger than Dacron.

I use the slides divers when the fish are in the top 30 FOW. I generally use a 75' lead and a #4 setting no additional ring added. I use 50# Power Pro (PP). I also got rid of the spring and use a piece of rubber tubing in it's place.

This is by no means a rock solid plan for choosing a flasher but it works most days. Use 8" Flashers like Spin Doctors or Pro-Trol. Use the 10" and 11" Flashers down deep. Orange with orange crush tape in the top 35 FOW. Any color fly really, green crinkle is always good. Chartreuse or Mountain Dew with glow cracked ice tape in the top 50 FOW. Green crinkle flies. Green with glow cracked ice tape in the 30 to 50 FOW range. Green crinkle and white or LLB and later in the year double aqua. White with glow cracked ice tape below 50 FOW. Green crinkle flies high, LLB with or without glow and white with or without glow. Just start with 24" lengths for flies measured from the tip of the loop to the bend of the last hook. Use a stiff leader like a 40 or 50 # flourocarbon or Triplefish.

If you have not used copper line before I'd strongly recommend buying new copper line and do as the other guys have said buy the Blood Run or Howie Super Copper line that are silver plated and much softer and therefore will have less memory. Nothing will turn you away from using copper faster than a bad bird's net/backlash. Make sure the reel spool tension is set so the line doesn't fee spool too easily. 30# copper is much easier to use for the first timer.