sjk984

I saw their arch/holder display at the ultimate show. I was impressed they looked really clean at all the joints

Yeah thanks for taking the time

my first post was supposed to say no noticeable difference in blow back

I run stackers and a ball release at the same time. There is a noticeable difference. At least with 15 pancake balls

i drove up the thumb side yesterday to get the sleds. it wont be long mow. lots of raft ice off shore around caseville-bayport

Hey Nick I told Hunter you were giving the catfish seminar. How to perfect meat rig for catfish. But he has to provide the cat.

LOL

I want to upgrade my DT II for the new 5 but I was told they lack the features of the DT II that I use the most..

I set my depth on the display and they automatically stop stop at tat depth with out me watching them so I can set my other rods...

I was told that I need a cannon link system to do this with the 5's but not the 10's. DT 10's are deffinatly not in the budget

Thanks Steve

3 sounds like fun

myself, father and hunter

Glad to here he's in good shape.. We had a similar incident with one of my boys... Really scary

I have an okuma convector rod that i bought to run wire on.. The shop added a twilli tip for me . I used it on 4 outi.gs and noticed a an odd bend in The tip. The tip broke while fighting a fish...

Does the warranty include if i had a dealer change the tip or am i out a hundred bucks.

I have a company dually with a 6.2. Excellent hauler but i am really glad it company gas. I only get 9 in the city and 12_14 highway. Funny but hauli.g doesn't affect the mil.e

Overall the best truck i have ever drove

Early spring =detroit river and jigging lake erie ohio reefs( launch from luna pier and 4 miles out).

how early are u thinking? We dont start sag bay till end of may. Detroit and erie are hard to beat march thru april

Steve, I use my Droid with no issues with the web browser

Thats what I have also. I must be doing something wrong.

Thanks

very cool she looks happy.

good shot too.

My second time seeing this article also..

This may be the single most important thread that I have come across on the sites I visit. It prompted changes in alot of anglers safty procedures.

Thanks for sharing Dave

Nice now u can have fresh surf&turff

Coool.. thanks for the report

PA. WALLEYE.

BEST TIME OF THE YEAR. Arouns the light house and deep 50-80' you will see them on ur graph suspended

All the hard work ( floor and foam removal was done ny the last owner). Even had it. Leaned out.

Im on my way to get it right now..

Gopefully when i get it started ill get more info.

THANKS Q.A. really appreciate you input

Ill post some picks when i get it?

I've done a bunch of boat floors and hull restorations for customers when I worked for a marina and more recently my personal boats. Never did a floor in a boat with an aluminum hull though. 99% of the work I've done was using polyester resin, different types of fiberglass (depending on the application) and gelcoat.

Working with epoxy has its +'s and -'s. Given the option, I'll use poly resin most of the time.

My current boat (8' beam) has several layers of 24oz woven roving laid at different angles lock it together. I buy it in 50" widths. The top layer of roving has 1 seam right down the middle of the floor but the visible seam is minimal due to the 7' long fuel tank access panel I put in that stretches most of the span between the engine hatch and steps down to the cabin. I also filled the seam with a fiberglass reinforced automotive body filler so it's not readily apparent. To top coat it all, I used thickened gelcoat and applied it with a 3/8" nap paint roller like you'd paint your living room with. That left a rough finish that would draw blood if you rubbed bare skin against it but after a couple days of walking on it, the texture wore down to a nice non-skid surface. 3 years in and it's still in great shape.

The only complaint I have about the gelcoat surface in my boat is that it's a PIA to keep clean. It gunks up and turns dark toward the end of the season but cleans up fairly easily with a bristle brush and some soapy water. At some point I may prep the floor and paint over the gelcoat with a durable finish that won't discolor as easily but that's not a priority.

You need to be careful with the A-B flotation foam. I fill compartments before the floor plywood goes on, then shave off the high spots if needed and top off any low spots with a subsequent pour. If you drill holes in hollow cavities and over-fill the compartment by pouring the A-B through the hole, it will expand and blow out the seams in your floor or even cause the floor to bow upward. I have seen some boats come from the factory like this. Guys on another site ripped me up over shaving off the top of the foam like this because it opens the cells up to water intrusion. If the open cells bother you that much, brush, spray or roll on a layer of poly resin before you put the plywood down.

I have a bunch of in-process pictures of different floor jobs I've done but I'm not going to post them here. I can email you a pdf if you want along with the sources I purchase my glass, resin and A-B foam through. Regardless of whether you use poly resin or epoxy, you will need to purchase some fiberglass rollers to wet out the glass. A proper glass job uses as little resin as possible - the strength comes from the glass not the 'glue' used to hold it together.

For sealing the floor to the aluminum hull, I don't think you want to wrap the glass up the sides of your hull. I'd be willing to bet the glass will peel away from the aluminum in a year or two due to a variety of reasons. I would recommend leaving a gap between the floor plywood and hull, then wrap the glass down around the end of the wood. Fill the void between the edge of the floor and boat hull with an elastic filler material. I'd use a polyurethane adhesive similar to 3M-5200 to fill the gap. The stuff I use has pretty much the same specs and performance as 3M-5200 but about 1/4 the cost.

Awsome info thanks

I bring the project home friday ill be posting some pics.

So far tenitivly. Im going with 5/8 marine ply resin coated. For a deck

2 part 4lbs pourable closed cell foam. I will have aprox... 70 cu' or by ther math 3500 lbs of floatation.

I am asuming a boat/motor weight of 1800 lbs.

First step will be replacing ang leaking rivets. The a new transom then the flooring

Welcome

On a side note

Omg another walleye guy....

Whats this world comming too.. it is nice to have another eye fisherman around

2 spinnies and flies

1 paddle and fly

1 spoon....

On a side note we snaged an anchor with 50' of float rope on it.

We got back an 11" wonderbread paddle.

Spiny. And fly

3 spoons

And a 250' of copper.

Try reeling in that on 20 lbs mono. When i saw the anchor linevi thought i had gotten tangled in a net. Stopped the boat and tangled all the other gear. Lol

I bought a tripod to ty with spoon next year

I will be resin coating the wood. Also i will be uI wsing pourable expandin floatation foam.

If i glass the top would i be able to seal the glass to tge aluminum hull where it meets the floor?

I will have a ton of questions as i brainstorm this rig. Before i even get the fishing gear.

i am really geekes to get the 150 opti tiller on.

Steve,I'm thinking wall to wall shag carpet with some fuzzy dice to hang from the mirror

When we replaced the deck in Ryan's boat, we used marine pw, coated with epoxy on both sides, then carpet.

I looked into leopard print bu.t it was out of my price range.

I want something easier to clean than carpet.. i plan on lots of slime on the floor.

Something powerwashable. Momma wants a snap in liner for crusing with the family