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Mushy's Dad

Lund trolling rig using the Lund downrigger brackets

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Here is my set up. I can install or remove the set up in 10 minutes. The family likes to go tubing and anchor out on the sand bar in Lake Butt Des Mortes. So sometime the Lake Michigan gear needs to stay home (almost sacrilegious to type, pray for me brothers for I have sinned....) but it keeps Momma and the kids happy. The set up is quick and I can do it by myself. The really nice things are; there is no holes drilled into the boat to mount this, the brackets make a strong set up, and I don't feel like I am going to fall out of the back of the boat every time I go to net a fish.

the_spread.jpg

Here is the details.

The downrigger brackets with the bases already attached. I used a wrap or two of grey electrical tape to keep the board bolts from dropping out. Feel free to use what ever color tape you prefer.

downrigger_brackets.jpg

I made the rod board out of 2x6 and the brace is 2x3 pine. I screwed the 2 boards together with 3'' stainlees deck screws. This was going to be the mock up and the final plan it to use oak, but darn if it didn't turn out just duckie. Maybe next year !

rod_board.jpg

Notice the tapered ends of the boards. The Lund downrigger brackets do not sit level once mounted. One would think that a 55 dollar bracket (each) would be level.

tapered_base_seat.jpg

The downrigger brackets lock into the sport tracks (inside) with a "Z".

sport_track.jpg

The bracket gets screwed into the pro track (outer) using 11 plastic inserts and 11 screws. Lund could/should make a single plastic insert to make this easier. But if you get all the clips in and screw the 2 ends down first the other 9 go really easy.

mounting_screws.jpg

All screwed up! Make sure you sqaure up the brackets each time you reinstall them or it will be hard to get the board on.

screwed.jpg

From here all I do is drop the board in place.

drop_board_into_place.jpg

I found some really nice plastic wing nuts with metal inserts and a few washers.

clean_look.jpg

And I am planning on cutting the bolts down....sometime later.

no_downrigger.jpg

Notice the height differences between the rod board and the downrigger base. The rod board was planed down and tapered, this created the gap to clear the wing nuts so you can remove the down riggers.

clearance_and_block_height.jpg

I left a fairly large gap between the rod board and the downrigger block to prevent any binding. I also drilled the holes in the rod board a little bigger to allow for the electrical tape.

nice_wing_nuts.jpg

Here is the downrigger locked into place and we are ready.

downrigger_locked_in.jpg

I hope this helps out ! A special thanks to Jeff for all the woodworking on this set up and on the one we are going to make out of oak, right? :grin:

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Where do you net the fish with that setup?

Right down the middle or up the sides works fine. I can move rods around fairly easily. I don't always run the flat line and there is always one extra rod holder open. The Ram Tubes adjust really quickly. I have not had an issue with netting so far.

82 fish this year in 17 trips and no problems.

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Looks great, but scary. If you can stay untangled and net fish I am impressed. Not bashing you. I just like the back of my boat open. You never know when a big king is going to decide to go every direction but towards the net.

Chris

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Boy I have to go with DarkBlue on this Keep the back open to net fish, Had many fish come unglued at the back after surfing in , only to wake up pissed off. Or bring in a 20lb king on 325 copper, not too easy to net on the side of the boat , Good luck.

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