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Bad Dog

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About Bad Dog

  • Birthday 06/08/1957

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  • Biography
    Many interests but obsessed with fishing
  • Location
    Fishing Manistee and Algonac
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  1. Jay Wesley will give a Lake Michigan salmon report. The Detroit Area Steelheaders meet at 7:30 PM, the last Tuesday of each month at the American Polish Cultural Center. Our featured speaker this Tuesday, June 27th is Jay Wesley, Lake Michigan Basin Coordinator for the Fisheries Division of the MDNR. Jay will speak on the state of the Lake Michigan salmon fishery, discuss salmon stocking strategies, and the food chain outlook. He is not one to shy away from engaging sportsmen with concerns about the future of the sport fishery. This presentation will be a highlight in our 2017 line up. Be sure to extend an invite to friends interested in salmon fishing. Meetings are free and open to the public. The hall is located on the northwest corner of Maple and Dequindre roads.
  2. They currently gather trawl data from the same areas each year. I think they intend to trawl areas which appear promising based on reports provided by fishermen.
  3. More rods equals more tangles. Some guys have a better 3D vision of where each lure runs in relation to the others. I imagine a dive master just pokes his head down below for a peek (sorry I couldn't help myself). Knowing where everything is will help avoid tangles, and you will know what to do when lines do eventually get crossed. It's gonna happen. It may be your fault, or it may be a fish on a run. Tangles with planers usually occur when a dispey releases and raises into the lead core. If you are only running one dispey, you can set the base plate on 2 to keep it closer to the boat. Lots of backing on the planer rod is important and helps keep boards away from the boat. How much lead core and how much backing are you putting on the Convectors? If you haven't spooled up your board rods yet, get bright colored backing. For short cores and big reels 30# mono backing is good. If you want to get as much lead core as possible on the 45 Convectors, use braid backing. As you've discovered, getting rigged for salmon is an expensive proposition. Like jmohunts mentioned, there are some deals on good used equipment out there. I didn't see anything about your boat and it's layout. What is it, and how many rods will you run? How about the inline boards, do you have them yet?
  4. There are lots of ways to rig dipsies. The following works for me and should help shorten your learning curve. Starting out, I recommend getting setup with braid divers for this year. A Heartland Dipsey rod with ceramic guides is sufficient and won't break the bank. Don't get talked into a wire rod for your first dipsey set-up. A wire set-up is not as forgiving, and costs at least twice as much. Rod length is in part personal preference but also influenced by your boat and how you have it rigged. Judging from your enthusiasim you will eventualy be running mulitple dipsies per side. A nine or ten foot dipsey rod is a good length to start. When you move up to two dipsies a side, this set-up will make a good high diver. The high diver is going to be your longest dipsey rod. If you think you might eventually run three dipsies a side, get ten foot rods now. You need smooth drags on your dipsies. If you like Okuma reels get the Convector or Clarion line counters in at least a 45 size. The Magda may not hold up. Dipsey size is more important than the color. If you run Luhr Jenson's, the #1 size with a large ring, on the 3 setting, will run down 1' for every 3' of line out. When you find a size you like, stick with it so you learn how deep it runs. The braid setup I've suggested can reach 100' depth. I like clear rubber snubbers in front of mono or floro leaders. If I'm running a spoon or plug, I'll use 17# - 20# florocarbon leader. If I'm running a flasher, I'll run 25# - 30# mono leader.
  5. You shouldn't need a leader in front of the paddle. If you want to fasten a bead chain put a snap on it. Regarding break-offs.... I know some guys like lighter test lines on down riggers. l use 20 pound for spoons and prefer heavier for pulling attractors. I don't like loosing big fish and expensive tackle. 20 pound test should be okay if there are no other issues. Check for nicks regularly. Cut off bad line and re-tie if necessary. Inspect your guides for cracks. Use a Q-tip to find small cracks difficult to see with the naked eye. If you think it's due to line twist. Try a better quality snap swivel. Check the barrel swivel on the front of the paddle.
  6. Boomer, I'm gonna watch next time I send one down. I think they sway at slower speeds and do a big roll if pulled faster.
  7. Is your main line breaking? If so, what pound test are you running?
  8. I don't think it's your roll, something else is going on here.
  9. Get 45# super copper. The 'super' copper is tinned (silver). It is less likely to birds nest because it comes off the reel smoother than regular copper. 45# is the most popular weight. For a reel, think about stepping up to the Okuma Clarion. The finish is a little nicer than the Convector.....but the big advantage over the Convector, is it's 6:1 take up factor. If you can spring for two set-ups, get a 300' and a 200'. I run run 30# or 50# braid for backing. If you get the 55 size reel, you can save some coin on backing by using a hi-vis 30# mono.
  10. Get yourself a copy of 'Chapman Piloting and Seamship'. Learn everything in the the book. It's the stuff you need to know for operating a vessel safely, and you'll also need to know it for the captains test.
  11. I don't fault guys for introducing new items but, I try to limit my purchases to two categories. Stuff that catches a lot of fish, or stuff that catches big fish. When it comes to fishing tackle I already own to much stuff. That being said I did win some of Big Weenies new spoons and will be giving them a try next time I'm in Manistee.
  12. I saw two barrels full of Ugly Sticks at Franks this week. You might want to call first. I was looking at the 7 footers. I think the second barrel might have been 7 1/2 footers.
  13. Check out the Moor Sub-Troll Klincher Kit (part # 88-088-032) for a clean way to connect. You can modify a Klincher like the above post but the kit from Moor is simple and works well.
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