sherman51

they had also planed to build a large store with a indoor water slide on the south side if indy here in indiana. but when the market went down they canceled it.

sherman

i also read there is one coming to columbus ohio on another forum. that one would be rough on me,LOL. i only live about 100 miles from columbus. i could be there in about 2 hours. it takes me 5 now to get to dundee mi.

YEEEEE HAAAAA

sherman

You don't know how lucky you are w/ that boat. Until just recently, I fished out of a 2001 16.5 foot Lund Explorer SS; go check out gunnels on that raft....shallow draft, shallow freeboard, shallow everything...it was meant to be a shallow water boat, yet I was able to catch some very nice salmon out of Algoma (WI side) and walleyes out of Green Bay. Pick your days and you will be able to fish more water than I was ever able to out of that Lund. Your engine box will help you stand up in a chop and keep you in the boat; I was always worried about falling out and spent a lot of time on my knees to lower my center of gravity. Plus if you get a bus tub, you can put the fish in the tub and work on unhooking them standing upright, utilizing all the space in the back end, there are advantages to a dog house…but I digress….

As for your ?? Keating's and Porter's book really helped me get a grip on the "new" stuff being fished nowadays...get on some one else’s boat too, a little gas $$ donation goes a long ways to the education, you'll probably be forced to take home most of the fish from the days catch,

I am now hopelessly addicted to salmon fishing and this site was one that was able to help me kick off my education, ask questions, even if you feel they have already been asked, they probably have, but it is just as useful for those answering the questions to strengthen their knowledge by answering questions, it make them think about it and put an answer in writing, which then solidifies confidence and reiterates past experiences to confidently go into the up and coming season.....you're doing some of us a favor by asking and making us think about it too....

great post phisy. the only dumd question really is the one that didnt get asked. there is alot of knowledge on here if he just asks.

sherman

they had also planed to build a large store with a indoor water slide on the south side if indy here in indiana. but when the market went down they canceled it.

sherman

Hopefully you can see what I am working with here. The boat is a 2009 Bayliner 185 which is not made for fishing but it will have to do for now. I will definitely not be heading too far offshore unless the conditions are excellent.

your boat is plenty big enough as long as you respect the water you are on. and always check the weather, and trust your eyes. if the forcast is for scattered showers and you see a big storm coming your way, get out of dodge.

i used an old 18 ft cherokee aluminum open bow on the western basin of erie for maby 12 or 14 years. and the western basin can get rough in a hurry. but we never had a problem. we have spent a few nice mornings in the parking lot because of the weather forcast. then in no time flat it would get rough, and we were glad we didnt go out.

you sure dont have alot to work with on that boat do you?? but once you get the board going across the boat you can always mount the riggers alittle inboard and mount a couple of rod holders on the outside of the riggers. if not for the boss saying no, the best thing you could do would be to mount some tracks up the side of your boat. even if you had to drill extra holes in the tracks to get them to work. then you could take the holders off when not in use. i use the cannon ratchet rod holders and tracks on my boat. amazon.com has the single axis ratcheting holders for 66.00 right now, and they work awesome for using divers. when you want to bring one in you just ratchet the holder to the upright position and lift the rod up out of the holder. keep us posted on your progress.

sherman

Nice post Sherman....tough to follow up on that one, there's some experience right there....I wanted add that another book for mean machine is the " precision trolling...big water edition 2".....I think it's a must for big water fishing....

yea, i was afraid i might just confuse him. its really pretty simple as long as you dont get it to involved. there are just so many options when it comes to using divers. i could write a whole book on them. so i tried to keep it as simple as i could and still give him the basics. i guess the most important thing would be to run your outside rod on the hightest setting, then use a lower setting and a shorter length on the inside rods

i want him to feel free to pm me if he has questions. i will try to answer them without taking over his thread.

sherman

welcome, the best advice i can offer without having a speicific question. is you want to start out with a couple of good riggers, electric if at all possable. i used manuals for 30 yrs. when i did get electric i was just amazed how much more enjoyable rigger fishing was. then learn as much as you can about running divers. you can run atleast 2 divers off each side and stack your riggers, that will give you 8 rods in the water right there. its easy to run divers. just set the outside diver to run alittle farther out than your inside diver and run the outside atleast 20 ft farther back than your inside diver. so when you put the outside out over your inside it will clear it on the way out. but divers are a cheap way to get lines down.

some people will swear by the old dipsy divers. and then there are the walker deeper diver. then the ones i like to use the lite bite slide diver. here are some of the reasons i like them better than the other ones. you can use them as a slide diver or i just use them like a standard diver except i use the lite bite feature. you can make 2 adjustments on them. one setting is for the tension from the main line. then you adjust the lite bite arm. you can set the lite bite arm so light that a good sized crappie will trip the diver when it hits and still not have false releases. then you can set it tight to where it takes a pretty good tug on your lure to trip it. i catch alot of small fish, so i keep it set light. then you can get a kit for them that comes with 2 oz and 4 oz weights and 2 size rings. if you want to run deep use the 4 oz weight and the large weight. but then the mag dipsy,s will get you down pretty deep. but the higher the setting out to the side you set your divers the shallower they will run. a 5 setting and 150 ft of line out wont get you as deep as a 3 setting with 150 ft of line out. hope i havent just confused you.

and like someone elce said. watch for open seats, and go out with some other guys. you can learn more on another boat than we could teach you here in months. and ask questions while on there boat. then you can combine what you already know with what you learn on there boat. and never be afraid to try some things on your own.

to get my dive curve on the divers i went to 50 ft of water and let out line on each setting until i started bumping botton. then i just devided 50 foot by the amount of each 10 ft of line out. like on my 4 setting i had to let out 185 ft with the diver with the stock weight and little ring. so i devided 50 by 18.5, that gave me 2.7 ft down for each 10 ft of line out. then you just do the same thing on 3 setting and then 2 setting and 1 setting. but say i want to run 65 ft deep on the 4 setting i just devide 65 by 2.7 and it gives me 24, so i know thats 24x10=240 ft of line out. you can get charts that are somewhat close but to spend just alittle time you can get real close. just set the diver up how ever your going to use it and run the speed you use most. like a lite bite slide diver with the big ring and the 4 oz weight is going to be alot different than the small ring and stock weight. so to get your dive curve use the diver set up the way you plan to use it for fishing. does any of this info help you any.

when i moved from the western basin of erie our trolling was mostly 2 riggers and 4 flatlines with deep diving crank baits. we were fishing water that was like 28 to 31 ft deep. we moved to the central basin, the water was 60 to 75 ft deep. the only way to get that deep was to use something to get you down. i didnt have a clue how to fish except with riggers. so i went out on a charter a couple of times. now i can run 4 riggers and 4 divers on each side, and then i can run a couple of outriggers with 15 lb braid and a small dipsy out about 3 or 4 hundred ft and pick up a few shallow fish. but most of the fish are deep in the summer when i fish. but i hadnt ever even seen a diver except hanging on the wall, or in a book. i learned how to use them and get alot of rods in the water. now i can run up to 14 rods if i need to. but in ohio you can only use 2 rods per person. so i usely only run 10 t0 12 rods.

and there are other ways to get your lures down, wire line, lead core, and some even use wire on divers. but walleye fishing i just never liked using wire or lead core. you can even use boards with inline weights or divers.

but i didnt even know about these forums when i was learning to fish. so i had to use charter boats. which still isnt a bad idea, i would always reccomend anybody that can get a few friends together to go out on a good charter atleast once. just talk to the capt and make sure they fish with what you want to learn. and then tell the capt you want to go to school. but you dont want to go out on a charter thats going to run 6 riggers only, when you want to learn about divers or lead core or wire. and you can still take some of the open seats thats on here. just be ready to help pay for expences and maby even help clean the boat. its best to ask what will be expected of you. then try to do alittle extra. maby pick up a box of donuts.

sorry for such a long post guys. just trying to help.

sherman

thats one of the great things i,ve found here. you dont have to steal info on here its free. all you have to do is ask. welcome aboard.

sherman

i seen these on ebay and remembered somebody wanting a set of big jon riggers.

but lord of the riggers has 2 sets of good used riggers listed on ebay. one set is the adjustable boom riggers with 3' booms and the other set has the one piece 4 ft booms. im sure if you contact him at [email protected] he would give you a good price on these riggers and any accessories that you might want. like the 1' extensions to make the 3' booms into 4' booms, or a couple of clamp on rod holders, or even a set of duel holders, or swivel bases or just about anything. you can get these riggers i would just guess around half what new ones would cost. and i would say he has checked them out real good before putting them up for sale. and he might even have some of the accessories used.

just be sure and mention you are a glf member as he is one of our sponcers.

sherman

+1 for using the floro leader. it just seems to work better for me than the floro fishing line. but it could have just been the brand i was using. i was using vanish line for my leaders, and after having way to many brakes i switched to seaguar leader, and havent had a problem since. and i think it might just be in my mind, but it seemed like i got more hits. but with all the money i have invested i just dont think a few extra bucks for piece of mind is to much to pay. just another opinion.

sherman

i may be taking you up on this later on this year. i have a 1986 28 ft sea ray amberjack, thats 10 ft wide, and at some point the engines were upgraded to twin 4.3 mpi engines. i just bought it alittle over a year ago. this fall when i had it up to erie i had one engine just die. it wasnt getting any spark. so i need to get that fixed before i try to sell it. but after towing it to erie i decided it was just to much boat to be towing 335 miles each way. so i,ve about decided to sell it. im not sure why its not getting fire. i havent even touched it since i got it home. i was just alittle dissusted, so i parked it. if its a bad coil i already have a new one to put on it. but i,ll have to wait until warmer weather to start hunting for the problem. but heres what it will be. can you give me any idea what you would try to sell it for.

1986 28 ft x 10 ft sea ray amberjack. with twin 4.3 mpi v 6,s. 2 new alternators 2 new belts 1 new starter 1 new raw water pump for the closed water system, and 2 new 4 blade 20 pitch props. it has a brand new $4000.00 tandem axle trailer, i added an electric atv winch and a electric trailer jack. it does have an aluminum radar arch that i removed for trailering. it does have a gps and radar and depth unit, but i have no idea if they work. the antennas for the radar and gps had already been busted from trailering it down a road with low hanging limbs when i bought it. then i cut the wires going to them when i removed the arch. it also has a radio cassett player in the cabin. it also has a marine radio and antenna. it has a radio cd player under the dash but i never got it to work. it has had 4 brand new big jon pro tournaments mounted on it. but only 2 goes with the boat. but they have auto stop, swivel mounts, double rod holders, and slide mounts to remove them when needed. and it will have 4 new cannon duel axis ratcheting rod holders with 24" tracks. it is in average condition for an 86. the trailer is rated for around 9000 lbs i think and it could haul a larger boat. the winch post is adjusted as far back as it goes for this boat. im pretty sure im going to sell it. so do you have any idea of the price range and what percentage you charge for the sale.

oh yea if you come look at the camper, you can take a look at it then, and mabe have a better idea then if you think you can get closer to the low end or the higher end of what you tell me now.

thank you sir

sherman

get it leak down tested

quick and easy way to find out whats wrong to early to be looking for a rebuld yet

1700 bucks from michigan motors hard to beat their quality vs price

if were talking about the same place, its called michigan motorz. i had a bad engine about 5 yrs ago. i bought a brand new 5.7 vortec 320 hp. it was called his silver package it came with everything from a duel line holley to the oil pan, even had distributor wires and plugs. and electric fuel pump. had to use my alternator and starter and power steering pump. but the best i remember it had everything elce. i talked to him and took the boat in. i think at that time he let me have it for 2900.00 then 800.00 to change it out for me. i took it in one morning and took it home that afternoon, ready to launch.

but he has everything from rebuilt long blocks to complete engines. and he has deacent prices. just check out his website michiganmotorz.com then find out what you want, then call him, he may give you alittle better price than whats listed on his site. and he,s been around for a long time, so he covers his warrenties.

now if i remember correctly in too deep had to replace his engine last year. and somebody on here hooked him up with a great price on a marine engine where they got there fleet engines. you might contact him and see if im right, and how everything worked out for him. just a thought.

sherman

Does anyone know if I need to get marine specific (merc 888) plug wires or if a set for a ford 302 will work? I want to get something to handle the hotter spark from a 40,000 v coil, I was thinking a 302 set would work

i just bought a set from michigan motorz off of ebay. but i have also just used the bosh wires on a couple of boats i have owned. so i think its just personal prefrence

sherman

like he says, as long as it looks good and has no kinks in it , it should be fine.

sherman

I keep all my UV in one box' date=' all my glow (nitro, moonshine, etc) in one box, and all the normal stuff in another box. OK I have like 20 boxes, but I try to keep them seperate.

If you really must know I am dillusional when it comes to organizing.

I actually have a box for "taped" spoons, a box for spoons with dots, a box for spoons with ladder backs, and of course each box is only one size (mini, normal, mags).

I've got a sickness.[/quote']

its called fishing addiction,LOL.

sherman

Do yourself a favor... Take an hour out of a fishing trip to make your own! Those charts are not even close most of the time.

Get into 30' of water. Let out line until you bump the bottom with the diver. Record the line out, speed, and bait(flasher-fly or spoon). Then go to 40'.... Same thing. 50' of water....same thing. Ect,ect...

This the the only way I have found to know exactly where the divers are. Current and wind will always have some effect...but this method will get you much closer than some generic chart!

i did something like this with my lite bite slide divers, and it works great for me. what i did was went to 50 feet of water at my most used speed. then let out line on each setting until i was bumping bottom. then i just devided the 50 ft depth by how many 10 ft of line out. that gave me how many ft down for each 10 ft of line out. then you can just go by that. the only one i can remember off the top of my head was the # 4 setting, with 65 lb braid at 2 mph i was diving 2.7 ft for every 10 out. so if i wanted to run 50 ft deep i just let out 185 ft. thats 18.5 x 2.7, thats 49.9 fet deep. and i have the no wrote down on how many fet down per 10 ft out on a 1 setting and a 2 setting and a 3 setting. it only took me about 1/2 hour and a calcalator to get my feet down per 10 ft out. this is the only way i know to really get close. then the most important thing is to just get back the the same place your catching fish.

i guess the reason the #4 sticks out, is its the main one i use. i just put the #4 out to the depth i want then just run the 3 setting 20 ft shorter than the 2 setting 20 ft shorter than the 3 setting and than the 1 setting 20 ft shorter than than the 2 setting. this way i have all 4 divers in the strike zone and can put the outside rods out over the shorter inside rods. if i move my rods to go deeper or shallower i will adjust the whole side.

oh yea i guess your wondering where this guy fishes with 65 lb braid at 2 mph. well the braid is just what i started using with the divers, then i can use any size leader i want, the 2 mph is my normal high speed for walleye in the central basin. if i run alittle slower its not going to change that much. its finding the fish and getting back to that spot that really counts.

sherman

i think all you need is the pointless kit for your distributor. and i just got on ebay and bought a new alternator when mine went bad. i got a mando 65 amp for around 100.00 about 4 years ago and havent had any problems. you can get them from about 50.00 up to over 400.00 for a high amp alternator. but i run 4 elec riggers and all the other things on a boat and the 65 amp keeps both my batteries charged. just make sure how many wires goes to your old one. then buy the same thing. some only have 1 wire and some have 3 wires. but i could have sworn there was only 2 wires on mine, but that was 4 yrs ago,LOL. i have trouble remembering yesterday,LOL. all you have to do is go to ebay and type in mercruiser alternator and you,ll get many choices in brands and amps and prices. the main reason i went with mando is because that was the brand that was on it. and it was a 55 amp and had lasted for over 20 yrs. but i did want to upgrade to the 65 amp with all the stuff on my boat. radio, marine radio, lights, 4 riggers and sometimes i even use a 12v cooler to keep my worms freash and cool when walleye fishing the central basin on erie. good luck.

sherman

For erie walleye fishing they are awesome. Set the trip arm real light and a small perch will trip them.Take a look at their instructions: http://slidediver.com/img/SlideDiver.pdf

I use the Fixed Leader Directional Diver instructions. But where the fixed leader is i tie in a piece of 50lb PP about 8 inches long and another swivel, to hook my leader to. The reason is i was having an issue with my 12 lb flourocarbon breaking where it rubbed on the trip arm.

thanks for the tip on the short piece of heavy line going through the trigger arm. i never thought about doing that.

sherman

hey everybody

i was just wandering how many of you have tried the lite bite slide diver, and your thoughts on them??

i started using them 2 years ago, because we were draging so many small fish around on lake erie that just wasnt big enough to trip the divers. with the invasion of the white perch and all the other small fish already there, you were always thinking about having something to small to trip the divers. well with the lite bite slide diver its just about done away with this worry. i just set the lite bite arm as loose as it will go. then set the rod arm tight enough that i hardley ever get a falce release.

something elce i would like to know is if any of you just use the diver like a standard diver. i just didnt like all the hassle of using the slide part of the diver. and i like to use the diver as an attractor anyway. so i tried them by just tieing my main line to the diver then tieing a small split ring to the end of my leader and stringing it through the back and putting it in the lite bite arm and then tieing on my lure. if i want to use a rubber snubber i just use a short piece of line to go through the lite bite arm then tie a swivel on then the rubber snubber then tie on my 6 to 9 ft leader.

this has worked great for me. many times we would never see the rod jerk. it would just trip, and when we reel it in there is a small white perch or yellow perch or white bass. i would never have knew anything was on if not for the light bite arm triping the diver. so please let me know what your thoughts are.

sherman

just have to say he did me right on a set of pro tournaments and a set of used double rod holders last year. i always reccomend him when somebody wants to know where to get big jons or just asks about good riggers at a good price.

sherman

Thanks to all! Looks like I will go with 200 ft. of 150 lb. cable and get to try the best of both worlds in weights. Thanks to sherman51 I will be able to try 8lb. balls & 10lb. pancakes.

Rudey

sure am glad i could help you out. i just got the weights boxed up and will get them shipped out tomorrow. i should be able to ship them priorty mail for less than 20.00. so even for used weights the price was right. the new cabelas 8 lb balls with the fins are 34.99 each and the cabelas 10 lb pancake weights are 46.99. i could be wrong but i think you,ll end up using the pancake weights.

and dont forget to check out the chamberlain releases at downriggerrelease.com, and if you decide to try them check out the prices at midwesthuntersoutlet.com

sherman

they are a beautiful fish, i sure hope it works out for all the guys that fish those waters.

sherman

looks like your ready to go fishing, and maby you can teach us a thing or 2.

welcome to the forum, its a great place to talk with other addicted fisherman,LOL.

sherman

i just got away from the manuals 2 yrs ago. and boy am i glad i did. i liked the 10 lb pancake weights with my manuals. you dont get near as much blowback from them as you do the 8 lb round balls. but the 10 lb,s are alittle more to crank in. i now use the 13 lb pancake weights with the electrics i bought. i soppose you could go with the heavier weights on the manuals, but they would be a job cranking them in. i think i would stay with 10 lb . i used manuals for about 30 yrs. just couldnt invest in the electric ones.

then 2 years ago i was on ebay and bought 1 display big jon sportsmans for 180.00 on auction. then i contacted the seller direct and bought another one for 250.00. then last year i got a bigger boat and wanted 4 riggers. so i got 2 big jon pro tournaments with auto stop for 525.00 on ebay. then i needed longer booms for the back of my boat, to get out over my swim platform. so i sold my 2 sportsmans for 300.00 and went to lordoftheriggers.com and got 2 more of the pro tournaments. the first set i got didnt have rod holders or swivel bases. i used the ones i had with my sportsmans. the second set i bought with swivel bases 1 clamp on rod holder and a slide mount, then got another set of slide mounts for the 1st set i bought. i think the 2nd set with the assy,s costed me like 759.00 for everything. so i have alittle over 1000.00 in 4 big jon pro tournaments with swivel bases slide mounts and double rod holders on 2 and single holders on 2. but after using many manuals for 30 yrs i think i deserve to have the electric ones.

i think if i was going to put new cable on those manuals i would try the braided line they use for rigger cable. if and when my cable needs replaced thats what im going to do. if you have 150 ft of good cable and plan on fishing less than 100 ft, you should be good with what you have. if you plan to fish deeper in the summer i would just put 300 ft on them to start with. and if you ever get the chance, spend the extra for a set of electrics.

if your still not sure what weights you want i might be able to help you out. i have an old set of 10 lb pancake weights, there alittle rough but can still be used. you can always strip the coating off and just paint them. then i have a set of cabelas 8 lb balls with the little fins thats still in pretty good shape. i will ship all 4 weights to you for 60.00. then you can try both size weights and keep all of them or resell the ones you dont like. i dont think your going to beat the chance to try both weights for 60.00. i could melt them down and sell the lead for around 50.00. i believe i can ship then usps priorty mail for around 20.00. so im letting you have the weights for 10.00 each. just let me know. i would prefer to get paid by money order. i dont know you but i will trust you for the money. if you want them just sent me your address in a pm, and i will get them shipped out to you.

oh yea on 1 of the pancake weights the coating started coming off and i hot glued it back on. so if you decide to strip them you will need to heat up the glue to get it off. but you really dont need to strip them, they work just great the way they are. i just thought i should tell you about it. then you wont get them ans say he,s glued this one, he shafted me. i want you to know what your getting. the cabelas balls would cost you as much as im asking for all 4 weights.

sherman

i just wish we had a few more people like you alittle closer to me.

a year ago last oct. i had just bought a 28 ft sea ray amberjack with the closed water system. i got a great price on the boat. so i took it to our local marina. i told them to just check it out and make sure it was winterized. they called me about 2 weeks later and said they needed to replace one starter before they could check out the one engine. i asked how much. he told me 108.00 on the phone.

well the 1st week in jan i figured i better see what was going on, as we were leaving for florida the last of jan and wouldnt get back until the first week of april. well they said they hadnt been able to mess with it because of the cold weather. si i told them about my trip, they said no problem.

when i got back they still hadnt called about the boat. so i went out there again. they said they was getting ready to start working on it. but they did have all the parts it needed. i asked what parts, they were just sopposed to check it out and winterize it. well i guess when i told them if it needed a starter to go ahead and get what it needed. they had got 2 new alternators 2 new belts one raw water pump and a pully. and then a starter that costed 204.00. i was really pissed, they already had bought all these parts and they had my boat.

so after giving it much thought i decided i really wasnt able to do the labor and if i dont pay for the parts i dont get my boat back. and i could have saved atleast half on the parts on ebay for the same part no#. so i said how soon can you have it ready. they said the next week. well they kept putting me off until the last week of june. then hit me with a 2900.00 bill.

i did find out later that because i hadnt give them written permission to do all this i might have gotton out of having to pay them. but i had already paid them.

well the generator went out in my rv on the way home from erie last aug. so i was low on funds. no, i was broke. so just before our muzzleloader season in dec i decided to check into getting it fixed.

i took it to our local rv dealer. he checked it out and told me something that was wrong with it. it would cost 360.00. boy was i happy. i expected alittle more. well i got a call, they got the part in but now it was running real rough.

it had set for awhile and the carb needed cleaned. i said ok, go ahead and clean it. then they called, that didnt fix it. but they thought they had found the problem. the fuel pump wasnt pumping enough gas for it to run.

well i said go ahead and replace the pump. then they call and say that didnt fix it. but they found the voltage regulator was bad. so with what everything elce was costing i just didnt have any money left. and asked how much, it was 499.00 for the part, then he said if i wanted to get one someplace elce with what i had already spent it was ok. so i got an aftermarket for 265.00.

they put it on and called me. they said it wasnt fixed but they are pretty sure they have found the problem. the stator is cracked and has a short in it. its going to cost around 900.00 for the stator. he had told me the fuel pump was around 300.00 and it ended up being 369.00. so i said how about me getting my own stator. he did say i could do that, and it would take about 5 hrs to pull the generator and install the stator and put the generator back in.

so i have found a new stator on ebay for 748.00 with shipping. so i,ve got to wait until the 1st before i buy the part. so i went up there and ask, just how sure is he that this is going to fix it. he said they cant find anything elce wrong with it, so they are as sure as they can be that this will fix it.

what i would like to know is why didnt they find this before i put all this other money in it. at the time there was a 6500 watt on ebay with 50.8 hours on it for 1800.00 and 149.00 for shipping. with the 1000.00 i have already gave them and the 748.00 for the new stator and the 5 hrs labor at 80.00 per hour. i would have an almost new generator for less money.

JUST WISH I COULD FIND SOMEBODY AS HONEST ABOUT THERE BUSINESS AS YOU SEEM TO BE. i cant even trust our doctors, they have beev trying to get rid of a urinary infection going on 2 years now. she went into septic shock about 1 year ago from a bladder infection and just almost died, from the infection they thought was ok. here a couple of months ago she was real sick, so she went back to the doctor and now she has a life threatening kidney infection. they gave her a shot and some oral antibiotics, and let her go. so we had an appointment for a general check up. we went back in and she told them she was just sick and tired of feeling sick and tired. so they check her again, and she still has the kidney infection. they want her to take all these antibiotics again. but this time they want her to come back in and get checked.

THE MOREL OF THIS STORY IS AN HONEST BUSINESS MAN IS JUST HARD TO FIND. MOST OF THEM JUST WANT EVERY $$$$$ THEY CAN GET OUT OF YOU.

by the way, how are you doing??,LOL. I JUST FEEL LIKE THE PEE UNDER A SHELL,LOL. KNOW WHAT I MEAN.

sherman

this just brings tears to my eyes, as we had planned to spend the month of feb in ft pierce. and its usely pretty hot for the black drum and a few red fish. but more pressing family matters canceled our trip this year. maby next year.

sherman