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inreeltrouble

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Posts posted by inreeltrouble

  1. set-up in 60ft worked out to 120 took first hit at 115ft, Down 90 on the counter with a nbk green, 8# laker then next hit came on a moonshine double trouble down 80 in 90fow 10# king. Not the greatest report for how good others are doing but the best part is that i got my mom and pop out last night and it was the first time she had been out in some 20yrs on the big pond :grin::grin:. She loved it just not all the riding.:o:(

  2. Tell your wife "It's your mother, you take her" ;):D

    Or, "I had a few Beer's and don't think I should drive her"

    I have to agree with nailer on this one,:D besides the economy is not that good she shoould save her money for a rainy day:grin::grin:

  3. the mono between the braid and the copper will also show you when it is getting worn. braid doesn't show wear and just breaks out of the blue.

    I am going to try something that the tackle shop in saguatuck talked my into trying. It is the torpedo diver to get you deeper. He said it works great and you dont have to have all the different lengths of copper. All you do is let all your copper out then attach this to the backer. check the chart for speed and depth you want to fish and let out the amount of line the chart shows. He said they don't add any more noticanble pull on your planer boards. I will see on sunday as i am going to try them out. for example a 150 copper fishes about 40 ft. let out all the copper attach the musky size torpedo diver and let out 78 ft more line attach your board, to fish at the depth of a 300' copper. there 18 bucks each instead of a new reel and spool of copper. you can also fish a 300 ft copper at the depth of a 450 copper for about the same extra line out. they make different sizes to achieve different depths.

    I have the stinger dive bombs thought that if i really wanted to get deeper could run those?? Correct.

  4. tie in a short snubber between your copper and your leader. It helps with stretch alot, and will improve hookup rates. Good luck, copper works!

    Does adding the snubber mean that you have a swivel attached to the copper then attach the snubber with a leader?? or is the snubber at the end of the leader? i would think that would make the lure run funny. :confused:

  5. Well you guys did it to me again after reading alot of past posts on copper and that it has it's place in the set-up, I went and bought 300 ft roll of the coated copper to set-up 2 poles with 150 ft each. I only did this because i dont have the funds to buy new okuma 55 series reels, so i used the 45's that i had. So as i set this up i used 50# braid as a backer and the attached a mono leader 45# to this to use to hook to the board instead of braid (hearing braid will cut into the clips) tied together with a double uni, and than attached the copper with a howie knot added the copper and then attached a 20# leader 30ft long, Did I do everything right??? i dont want to lose anything the first time i try it. Thanks Doug

  6. Shoould have listened, the 3/8 tube would not cool it effectively enough to work, woulod keep cool trolling but not trying to run anywhere so back to the drawing board.... remade the entire inside and used 1/4 o.d. tube 72 tubes total and made baffles, finished sat. and installed works great..whoa whoo. so after some time and about 100.00 bucks the inreeltrouble is back in the water. Thanks Again forthe input Guys should have used 1/4 in the first time.

  7. Hey Bill, just wanted to let you know that i am all set as of right now. after a complete rebuild of the exchanger i took it out sat. and ran around for about 5 hours and it wroked beautiful, never ran that cool before, So once again thank you for all the help.

  8. Thanks for the feed back guys, not sure if it will work but I finished it yesterday with the 3/8 o.d. tube, but i also added baffles to slow and make the water turbulent when going through. So maybe just maybe it will work. Thanks for all the posts.

  9. Well after my heat exchanger went bad, I decided to see if i could fix myself, and found that the baffles inside are what caused it to fail they were never soldered to the baffles causing them to rub and eventually cut through them. :angry2: that is why so many leaks.. well i want to use 3/8 o.d. tube inside this time but there was 74 1/4 o.d. tube before, i was wondering if anyone knows if using 3/8 tubes because there will be less tubes if it would cool enough to work. or will that transfer enough heat to do the job.

  10. well i brought it in to work ( gotta love gov. jobs at work!):D. and found that there is only one tube inside that is bad. they are only 1/8" tubes and there are roughly 50 of them so i am thinking that a little solder on both ends of the bad tube to seal it off i might be back in business atleast for now...:no:

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