ChampionShip

Cuda torpedo for an swr is a bit much. I would maybe try a 50' leader with a snapper torpedo and about 10' more line let out after that, then to the rigger release.

Trust me, you don't want a Magda on a diver- drags are too sticky and diver hits are usually exceptionally violent. I have and still run a 27lc accudepth for a 20lb wire diver and it works great and is light weight which I like. My 30 lb wire divers and the like are old Sealine Great Lakes 47lc's with the green button. I had Tuna Tom rebuild them completely and they are every bit as smooth as a Tekota, and with a Power Handle, they're an ideal reel for divers/pump handles or even riggers and short cores.

Found it: http://www.fish307.com/wtpdipsydivertape.aspx

Regardin glow colors for Walker Deeper Divers.....

Walker offers a glow bottom attachment that allows the diver to glow but better yet is simply get some glow tape, like those used on flashers, and cut them to size to fit over your divers. I've done this and the addition of glow tape works pretty well.

I got some pre cut dipsy tape from somewhere or another a few years ago (Big Weenie, I think) and it worked great for changing color without buying new divers. It wasn't glow, but you could just as well trace the pattern onto glow tape as mentioned.

Plus I don't like having a blinding white camera flash going off in the boat and further screwing up my night vision. UV light isn't the most fun to look at, but I have noticed that I can re-adjust back to night vision very quickly.

Some of my fly beads will ONLY glow with sun or uv light, so the spot light thing is out for me.

I love mine, cost me like 10 bucks on feebay and lasted 2 seasons and counting. Charges as much or as little as you want (I don't really like a nuclear charge) and doesn't need a 12v outlet or anywhere near the clumsy space that a glow box needs......I don't miss our glow box.

Charging for 20 minutes with uv doesn't seem to make the glow last any longer than a shot for about 5 seconds.

Short answer for what I use for lakers.......anything that keeps them OUT of my boat. They seem to fancy lighter shades of green spoons and often anything that looks like or is a hammered copper spoon.

It's not against the rules to run spoons on mono. Just personal preferences.

Agreed. Some do well with straight mono to spoons, I just personally use a fluoro lead.

All coppers have different sink rates blood run opti howie atommik not all the same . Leader lenght what pound leader spoon paddle fly dodger fly spin doc all different Iuse 45lb copper from a-tommik 2.2 is 20 to 22 down www.Atommik go to catalog find his copper .

I do agree, but I don't think the difference is as drastic as everyone thinks. I'd venture an edjuma-cated guess that the difference in tighter wound copper vs looser wound would only be a few feet on a 300 rig at best.

Have 2 of them- Cabela's brand I think. They work pretty nicely for riggers, but only on straight mono, which means only flasher/flies. I tried getting them to accept my back to back uni knot and fluoro leader for spoons, but it was more hassle than it was worth.

We played with them this past summer and after about 5 minutes of reeling it back in and re-deploying and screwing with it- they can shove that push pin release up their arse. We haven't retried them yet, and when trying to adjust the arm it seemed like the arm was pulling right off of the board.

I run my regular Big Birds with the red offshore on the back and a big scotty pinch pad on the front and can pull 1lb balls in waves no problem. I like being able to either surf the board in while reeling, or being able to pop the release if I want to so an outside board can drop back.

That Okuma copper rod for 40 bucks is nice, got 8 of them.

After playing around with Tony's this past year, Okuma rods were my first Winter purchase. I can't justify Talora rods at $80/ea.

I agree with Pioneer.........I sent a few GL47's to Tuna for drags and power handles and I can honestly run them side by side with any Tekota and they're ever bit as smooth plus I have a better gear ratio. I do have one Older Daiwa 27lc with 20lb wire on it and it works pretty darn well also for what I paid for it. Never pulled a mag diver with the 20lb test, but it pulls a normal diver with a mag ring with no issues. I have used backer if the wire doesn't completely fill the spool. On GLA Hondacat will tell you, and I completely agree, to check the 'timing' of your wire vs where the levewind is- it makes a whole ton of difference.

Going to order the under water lights from coastal.DO you have the single or the double? Are the strip lights much of a light producer? Thanks for any input

I have 4 strip lights, 2 white, 2 red and they do more than what I thought an $8 light would do.......I am very pleased.

I have LEDs from Coastal Night Lights and I couldn't be happier with them. Well worth the cost.

Agreed X10, they work better than any halogens that I've had.....and they have next to nothing for a current draw.

Hmm, talking about divers, I know a Charter in Sheboygan, Wis. that only uses divers all around the boat, no riggers or lead. SorryCharlieSportfishing. com I believe. Randy is quite a fisherman too. He also mfrs. and sells the slide divers direct and has samples if you ask politely. Tell him I sent ya. Thanks.

He also runs planer boards that are bigger than most peoples' bed frames.....they run some different stuff down there, and alot of them are just using pump handles.

What KJ said. Sometimes those old, crusty pieces of crap actually work. I've seen it happen in Sheboygan moreso than anywhere else I fish for some reason.

I agree with the splice of mono between core/copper and backing for board attachment. You'd be surprised at how much longer your Church board pins last with mono vs braid rubbing against it, same goes for their stock releases.....and most other releases for that matter- braid is pretty hard on equipment, but that's another thread.

When my copper and cores are reeled all the way in, I want the level-wind to be just about hitting the line....you could say that I'm a fan of excessive backing.... I use the 2 reel method for spooling as the reel calculator is a great tool, but I like the reel packed with line when it's reeled in and I dunno if the calculator can make that happen. I like this because it seems like my drags perform better with more line on the spool. I set my drags so they don't click unless a fish hits, but if fishing at night and a shaker hits and doesn't trip the clicker- I don't know he's there until I light up the spread to check....and I'm forgetful.

As for my backing material, it's usually 40 lb Powerpro of different colors so I can tell what's what WHEN I tangle them. I add at least 150 yds of that and then fill the rest of the spool with 20 or 25 lb mono. Mono gets scrapped yearly as it's cheap and often the weakest link. Leaders and splices get replaced yearly as well.

What about this Super Braid...???

By 'SUPER BRAID' do you mean superlines?? Cause that's what PowerPro and other braids are also referred to. Any particular reason you don't want lead? It's the easiest way I know of to get stealth presentations going- copper is great, but it's easier to use once you've had a year or 2 of lead usage first.

If you don't want any lead- use copper......but don't EVER abandon a long line program of some sort.

Give a call to Big Weenie- he'll give you a good idea of what flies produce when and where. I've run Siggs and A Tom Mik and, of course, Howie with success too. Didn't have much of a fly bite this year out of Algoma, but the bites we did have came on some flies that just came out this past summer.

I dunno how much I'd bank on the directional part of a Torpedo diver in rough weather as I didn't fish much after getting that advice from Matt, just need to adjust your dipsy divers a bit more to stop false realeasing or just use slide divers. Regular torpedo's worked well in the waves, they just don't go all that far away from the side of the boat.

Mark, When you and Tony were running them what were your experiances with the directional torpedo's. I would like to substitute my inside divers for torpedo's with the finns out. How far do they go out and in rough water or do they spin or just not want to pull out? Talked to Tony abot a week ago, he's a hunting machine. Chris

Chris,

Tony has a little different setup for his divers than I do, but it's pretty much all the same. He typically only runs 1 diver per side so the directional thing isn't much use to him since his main Torpedo diver rods are like 14' long.... he can easily clear his riggers that are always in an out-down position. We have run the directionals in place of dipsy divers and they worked great. If you're running it as an INSIDE diver, don't bend the fins- they go out quite a ways and will likely be too close to your high diver.

I ran them with 2 on a side in place of dipsy's with plenty of success. Inside diver was one that I had basically sitting like they show on the Torpedo website in 'predator ambush position' right above my rigger. High diver was directional and they make a pretty darn good push away from the boat so I wasn't really concearned with tangles there........however, in the rough stuff I was trying to set them in, while down in Port Washington, I was trying to get a directional Torpedo over top of an inside dipsy set on 1.......it didn't really work that well but the waves were all of 4-6' that day. I talked to Matthew at Torpedo and he said that a longer stretch from the clip to the diver will help that a bunch and to use a berrol swivel in line. If I had used one of Gilligan's long/outrigger rods to get over top of my inside diver I'd likely have been ok. As for them not pulling to the side, you're right- they just spun when the rod would pull back straight. Hope that helps! Tony invited me to come out and shoot some stuff, but I've been pretty busy with work this fall so I haven't been able to, but he has been killing some pheasants! He taught me an absolute TON this year, and your fly works well on just about everything I ran it on!

-Mark

I use them on the more action hole . and I attach a cross lock snap to the end of the leader , so if i change a fly it only takes a few seconds.

So many inappropriate comments could be made about 'wrong hole' or 'more action hole' but I'll hold back. The hole that produces more action IS the hole that has the end of the fin next to it.

-Champ