ChampionShip

Best set up I saw on a 27 sea ray amberjack.

15 HP. With a wheel and controlls on the transome. Also he had the motor mounted mid ship

midship is in the middle from front to back, do you mean centered on the transom?

On our boats we use sofscrub with bleach cause they get used daily. New floors need more grit so I use ajax and a rediculously stiff brush. If theres smokers on board or it gets really nasty i dump bleach on the wet floor wait 20 minutes then hit it with sofscrub.

I think Floorboy did this mod a while back

+1 for grundens bibs, nice and i use sofscrub with bleach when needed. They dont breathe but they last

Love my Morgans

there's a few companies that have identical blanks

We would usually have the spreaders on as needed but would shut them off and let our eyes adjust and watch for strikes. This is especially a good idea if the bugs are out.

Grizzly might be a better price point. One of the guys that works with us has one and it's awesome.

If you aim the Coastals the right way, they shine plenty far to see all of your boards and the deck. We can see 5 on a side with them. Put some white DOT tape on them and it's awesome. All lights are not created equal. Have a boat at our Marina with the Taco LED's and they suck majorly.

Don't marry any one presentation.................this crap changes every single day, and what the fish want changes more often than that.

trolling into the current is the best way to troll as the fish orientate themselves with the current. typically into the current. The way you can tell is by watching both your diver and your boards. for example if your boards are pulling harder on the right you need to turn left to get more into the current. when they are all pulling the same then you are straight into the current. I find the boards show me more surface current and my divers show me depth current better. same theroy with your diver rods. one will pull harder than the other. There are days the surfacce current is completely different than your depth current. when that happens i watch my diver rods to tell me where the current is coming from.

I agree with that 100%.

I personally don't let high divers out past say 130 or so.....just doesn't seem like I want a high dipsy out that far. Personal preference though, I don't like the TX 44's.

Monkeyed with otter boats and different keels for two seasons then went to nothing but inlines and will never look back. For 10 oz, either Big Birds or the big Z boards, Church for coppers and regular yellow birds for flat lines up to 5 colors

150, 180, 210, 300, 450 Morgan Super Copper. If you want just a cheap dipsy rod you can get a TDR with a Torpedo Diver tip. For most use, a roller isn't exactly required.

I agree fully with the regular divers for the high divers, they are awesome when steelhead are around and do well for kings in the morning. If you have a current hitting your beam then running the high divers can be more of an issue with tangles than it's worth. I don't usually run the high divers out past 100 loc so it stays out of my inside board. When resetting high divers around deep divers I like to set them right off the middle of the boat and thumb it to where i want it then shut the bail and put it in the holder- it will find its way to where it goes without tangles..............don't turn until it has had a few minutes to realign.

For your initial rod and reel investment I would look into Convector reels in the 30 and 45 size depending on what you plan to spool on them. Great reels that last a while and pretty cheap for how long they last. One thing I would add is that when you store your gear, back the drags off all the way or else Okuma's can get sticky. TDR rods are a cheaper rod that stands up to alot of abuse as well.

I'm a huge fan of Salty Balls in the 12# variety if memory serves. Not sure if Salty is on here but I'd look him up for sure. Blowback is almost nil compared to anything else we've used and they track very nicely.

I would opt for 4 barrels to maybe have a tad more power on tap should you ever need it.....that was my thinking

There is likely a bigger abundance of F250's than 350's but haven't looked into Ford anything in quite some time. Unless, of course, you need a 1 ton.

I agree with the rebuild the carb 100%, but I would start checking into any possible gains with 4 barrels.

I like Sheboygan for the fishing, but the cleaning station is about 6 blocks away from the marina it seems, and after spending alot of time with friends local to that particular area, the neighborhood surrounding Harbor Center is a tad sketchy- lots of reckless teens hanging around that area.

Algoma has everything in walking distance of the public marina, might want to see if you can dock riverside until they get the basin dredged out. Cleaning station is amazing, too.

We have some guys from MN that come 4-5 times a year and with their lodging and two trips every time they are still saving money over hauling their boat over here. Fun guys, too, and it's nice that they like to do quite a bit more than average groups do.

I have found that the smaller 4-10lb fish especially when they come out of cold water are more hassle than it's worth trying to wrangle them once I wrist shot them out of the net. Little whack on the melon and no worries about a hook in the hand.

The big Torpedo swivels are perfect for heavy connections like connecting to divers and 10 oz weights. The small ones are nice and small for spoons, and they started making a ball bearing swivel if line twist is an issue. For our longlines if we're running flasher flies, we use two swivels back to back.