ChampionShip

Walleye boards pull 300 with flashers......move the weight to 1.5. I think big yellow birds are easier to deal with than tx44's but I know guys that like both just fine.

A Daiwa 27 will hold a surprising amount of wire. I have one with 20 lb wire and it works great.

Directional torpedo snapper weight would get it done.

I am very backing conscious, especially since a reel with more line on it means the drag works more efficiently. I wouldn't put more than 240' of 45 lb copper on a cv45. If this year is anything like last year over here then a 225 is actually my outside board...........need alot of backing!! I like 50 lb braid (at least 300 yds) and then 20 lb mono behind that. No sense in using braid for all of it in my opinion

Put a bolt or something into the open tube that's got the busted peice in it and push it further up into the tube- then just put the new one where it was.

Looks like it's coming along nicely- can never have too many rod holders. Oh, and buffing and waxing sucks!

Downsize your wire reels to 600 IMO 700's are just too bulky and heavy. Back to back uni's have served me well for a very long time.

Got any pics?

Burts (if memory serves) is interchangable with Traxtech and Cannon.......just for flexibility's sake.

I sent mine to Big Jon last year and they're like new. Cheap and fast turn around.

I also agree with the writer in just how important line counter reels are, not only for precision of divers but for setting and resetting boards..........if you have a three board/side setup you can put them at 100/200/300 and that way if your middle board fires and you reset it, clip the board and let 200' out right behind the boat and then stop it and it will go right back where it should be.

Another thing I stole from Gilligan (My mentor) is the use of HIGH QUALITY WHITE D.O.T. REFLECTIVE TAPE on the boards......allows you to see boards with either a head lamp or if it's really dark you can see the reflection from your masthead light. I can't stress enough of the high quality part of the tape. Lights and stuff on your boards are cool but it's just another thing to maintain and be pissed about when a fish breaks it off.

It is worth noting that we fish at night alot over here- main thing we do is scrap disc divers and flashers for something 'quieter'. We run alot of long lines and torpedo divers. Often a subtle glow was more productive than a big bright nuclear glow.

This help maybe?? http://compare.ebay.com/like/320871796361?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

Go to iboats.com and download the service manaul fo free!

If you have noobies reeling fish you need to be making sure they don't mess with the drag/etc anyhow- may as well help them with manually guiding the line side to side. Word to the wise- use mono backing............if you get a screamer and have to use your finger and it takes off or you have to reel in fast- braid will absolutely carve your fingers up.

This one's not bad either...........http://www.iboats.com/sites/bluewater/site_page_4691/item_972924.html?listing_page=listing_sum_index_1.html

Hey Dave, check out this boat, a buddy of mine is selling. Probably the cleanest fishing boat around. This thing is a fishing machine and can handle some big weather. For what he is asking I think he is nuts this thing is worth so much more. Check it out http://www.skipperbuds.com/Page.aspx/diid/7069994/list/InventoryList/pageId/9033/view/Details/1998-Baha-Cruiser-278-FISHERMAN.aspx

That this is AWESOME! Kicker and a Tr1 would definitely keep the fishing expense down on that boat.

It's NOT too much engine for that boat- it's absolutely perfect. A 5.7 (350) would get it done- but barely. Alot of people that opt for a big block are often surprised that their fuel burn doesn't change much over a struggling small block..........it's just not working that hard to push the boat. Plus I'd rather have the extra power (and speed) for when the boat is loaded down and weather is coming. I doubt you'll have to use bags unless it's a duoprop drive.

FWIW- I have fished plenty out of a 20' Trophy with a 4.3 (not much different than a 305's horsepower) and it's a dead ass with more than two people on board or with even just a full tank of fuel- and yes, it's propped right.

That's where it failed a few times, if it hasn't happened to you yet then you're lucky.

I like Morgans Super Copper- run 300' of the 45lb and do well out of Muskegon

Ditto. Plus, watch out for the haywire twist mend on the super copper- had a few fail where it wasn't failing with normal copper. I mend with haywire twists on a small swivel with shrink tubing- never failed me.

I do what Line Dancin says- only difference is my swivel is after the diver (clear bead before the swivel) and then like 6' of 20 lb fluorocarbon. They're great for shallow water presentations, kings liked 'em last June, but then they went way deeper and that was time to go back to regular Dipsy's.

I believe the Trolling Bible for big lakes will cover that

No complaints on Pline Fluoroclear 20 lb test used the past few seasons, don't know if it's making a huge difference but it is easier to knot in my opinion. I have been using 50 lb ANDE fluorocarbon LEADER MATERIAL for flies with no complaints, love that stuff. If my long lines with spoons (often have flashers) weren't getting hit- then I might try some 100% fluoro. My stuff vs a friend running seguar fluoro have seen no difference in fish caught, but if it did, I'd run fluoro.

I have a buddy that has a white SMITH fish bag he keeps on his swim platform. It's insulated, zips open all the way so you can hose it out or just clean it with lemon joy or dawn when needed. Heavy duty suction cups hold it in place, and a 20 lb bag of ice spread across the bottom seems to last an aweful long time. If you have a spot for it, it's by far the coolest thing I've seen for a swim platform.

http://www.alltackle.com/smith_fish_bag.htm

Watch that haywire twist on super copper, doesn't seem to hold as well as regular copper does