1HI4X

I realize this post is a couple months old and you've probably already developed a solution  

For anyone else considering the same in the future:

An iPad, iPod, phone, etc. still needs wifi or cellular signal for gps. Otherwise it has no way to communicate with the satellites. You could possibly use your phone as the signal source though. 

25 minutes ago, Loose Neutral said:

I have a system that is part standard NMEA2000 and part Simrad. I used a adapter to tie the two and have no issues. Only difference is the ends. 

Awesome. Thanks. That's what I'd expect. 

I have a Raymarine a98 MFD with no network at this time. The radar is connected via wifi directly to the mfd. I am now looking to connect a Simrad AP24 pilot and would like the two to talk to one another, likely via NMEA2000. The question now is whether to use the Raymarine or Simrad network as the backbone?  Theoretically there shouldn't be a difference but am not wanting to buy one and should have gone the other direction. I have not asked Raymarine or Simrad only because I expect no support for trying to attach other mfgs equipment.

Any thoughts or experience on whether I should use the network from the AP mfg or the MFD mfg?

26 minutes ago, Divemaster said:

You can't clip the board to the leadcore at all?! That's going to be a problem for me considering we have reels loaded with 10 colors (300') of leadcore after 50' of fluoro. Not only is that too much line to have out in Presque Isle Bay (Max depth 35') with boats cruising around but that's going to sink lines way further down. It will be very helpful for deep water later in the year, though. It's hard to imagine that everyone is always running all of their leadcore, but I guess if you have enough reels to have some spooled up with different amounts then it wouldn't be a problem.

Correct. Do not attach a board to your lead core. Unfortunately this isn't a "buy one reel with 10 colors and fish every depth" scenario. If you want to target multiple depths, you'll need multiple setups. I have six: 2,3,5,8,10,12 colors. Then there's copper...

9 hours ago, Divemaster said:

So you're saying get your entire fluoro leader out (in my case, 50 feet), then let 20-30 feet of leadcore out before clipping it off to the board, correct? 

I'm not sure I fully understand either.

You don't want to attach your board to the leadcore, only your backing. I think what he was saying was some people like to clip the board on right after the lead core but he likes to let more line out before clipping the board on to allow the lead core to sink more and to get the board away from the knot. I do the same thing for the same reason. 

On April 15, 2016 at 10:34 AM, Divemaster said:

Bump for this ^. I'm aiming to finish it this week because we're launching next weekend and I'm hoping these temp ranges are pretty accurate.

It's a good starting point. Don't get wrapped up in thinking temp is a hard rule. Your link is pretty good info though. 

One reel is sold, one still available. 

Without line, power handles, or extra drags:$80/ea shipped.

For sale: I have two Daiwa Sealine SG47LC reels with power handles from Tuna's Reel Trouble, 50# Power Pro braid, and new in the package Dragmasters carbon fiber drag washers.  The drag washers were included with the power handles and never installed since the drags were still in good shape.  I bought these reels about a year ago from Priority1 (Frank), had the braid installed to serve as backups to my wire divers, and used them 2-3 times.  They have seen more use from Frank and being put in and out of the boat than anything else.  

The power handles have two mounting positions, both of which are longer than the stock handle.  Both handles are included so in total you have three different handle lengths.  There is mono backing under the braid and I don't remember exactly how much braid is on the reels.  It's plenty though.    

Edit: braid length is 500', 500' mono backing.

Price is $125 each, shipped USPS.

Short answer, yes. 

Is it possible to just take your assembled wire rods with you?  Otherwise, I'd break them down and plan on cutting out enough wire to get past the kink and retying your swivel. It's a little inconvenient but not as inconvenient, or costly, as losing your entire dipsy setup. 

Is this sold?

Even though the counter isn't needed, it isn't a negative. That's the route I'd go. I wouldn't go to a saltist strictly for the reason of no LC.

I have a Tekota 800LC with 400' of copper. The LC has no real purpose for this setup but I got a great deal on it.

Here is a shot of a couple of my TX 44 boards after the mods running about 3.5mph inside is pulling a 450 copper outside is a 300 copper.

Jim,

Have you tried using the TX-44 pinch pads on the walleye boards instead of the lock jaw? They would not get the line as high as the lock jaw but there would be no way for the board to release due to the orientation of the pads. I set two boards up this way but haven't a chance to try this setup.

Thanks, but as of now I don't run copper, so I don't know how that relates to the lead core I'm using.

Will the Offshore boards do 10? colors?

Seasons almost over for us, but I'll pick up a couple new boards and do the AA mod to them and see if they work better.

Wonder if I should raise the anchor point as the blood mod suggests too?

I've been using the flags as I seem to hit a lot of small trout and if they run level, it seems to work well.

Once I go from spoons to lead core though all bets are off.

Hard to tell bites in rough water when the board is mostly under water.

Thanks.

Al

Copper and lead core, both are the same off a board. All it is is weighted line. As I mentioned, you should have no issues pulling a full core (10 colors) behind a walleye-size board. I don't use the offshore boards, but if you use the same size as the church walleye boards you'll be good to go.

You can make the Minor mods (such as moving the rear anchor and moving the weight) linked above without having to buy new boards.

Even with the boards mostly underwater you should still be able to detect a fish (loosen your drag and watch for it to fall back). The boards will still drop back even if they don't normally track properly. The planer boards just can't keep the weight of the fish out to the side too so it will drop back toward the back of the boat.

Can you upload some pictures of your board modifications?

His mods are here.http://www.bloodruntackle.com/planer-board-mods-tips/

You should be able to pull a 300 copper or full core behind a walleye board with no modifications. Even in rough water. Granted they could run better with mods, but you shouldn't be having major issues.

We did just that this weekend in Frankfort during the Benzie Frenzy. Day one started in solid 2-3' waves and subsided to 2'. No issues whatsoever with the boards. More than 300 copper were pulled on the bigger TX-44's.

Forget the flags. Watch for the boards to fall back or loosen your drags.

These are gone.

GONE.

Selling duplicates of what I have as a package. 24 spoons and 3 e-chip flashers.

Some light reading for you.

Last year we ran all 9'6" Shimano TDRs with twili tips. Low mag divers on 1 and high mag divers on 3. I really like the TDRs and am running them almost exclusively. The Daiwa Heartland rods are also an excellent choice without breaking the bank.

I picked up a Tekota 700 cheap for wire diver use. I liked it so much I bought another. They are $$, but they are very nice reels. I also use Daiwa 47s for wire since they are all around nice reels.

Not quite what you're looking for, but Johnson's Outdoors in Montague is very close to the cleaning station (which allows you to grind your remnants) at the city Launch. About a 30 second drive.

Price to move

4 Tekota 800LC $100 each

1 Tekota 500LC $100

I will take all four 800s.

If you look at GPS coords from the area of the report you will notice that they all start 43*N, 86*W (in Lud for example). Same thing goes for other areas, only with the degrees respective to the area. The coords in the fishing reports just chop these off since it is always the same. So if a report gave the coords between the 52s-55s, it would actually be between 43*52.xxx' and 43*.55.xxx' N. The same could be done for the west coordinate.

We were in 90-110 FOW and we're seeing fish but nothing was hitting last night . Went south to duck lake and trolled north just past the humps , and I had every color in the spectrum out there but wasn't running meat , ran all spoons.

And Rascal I'll keep to Whitehall be cause even though We got skunked , my wife and I enjoyed an awesome Sunset and great memories , thanks Sir.

Robert, if the spoons aren't taking any hits give some flys and plugs a try and don't get too attached to one rig or the other. Keep swapping things out until you figure out what they want. Spoons have remained hot late this year, which for me is odd. I fished the Manistee Salmon Splash last weekend and we took fish on spoons, flys, meat rigs, and plugs. Everything. Dipsys and long lines were hot.