perchjerker

thanks Rick

I am changing out the power leads to match the others as I have 4 power outlets on my Grady that look like house AC outdoor outlets.

So I thought I might as well up the switches too, they are light, I am sure they will be ok as is but might as well while I am in there so if I ever do upgrade the motors I am all set.

ok I did not want to use the toggle switch. I did not see that rocker. I will order a few of those

thanks

Aaron

I am looking at those rocker switches you bought.

It says they are momentary on-off

do you have to keep the switch pushed down to get the motor to run?

I just want to flick the switch and not have to hold it so I can do other stuff while its bringing the weight up

I am thinking like this one

http://www.gamainc.com/site/epage/130298_941.htm

I got a chance to take one of mine apart while at the cabin during the Lions game.

I dont know why someone would have put a light duty toggle switch in it but they did and put a blank plug in where the original switch was. Also the power cord was changed out with light wiring too, thats going in the garbage also.

They are the old motors. I am just going to upgrade the wiring and switches and see how it goes for now.

I also got one of the housings painted.

thats about as far as I got.

If you have the old motors you should be able to upgrade them then.

ok thanks. I am going to my cabin today after work for the weekend. I am going to toss them in the back of the truck and work on them this weekend if we get this rain they are calling for, it will give me something to do while having a few too many barley pops.

actually they are gray!!

I looked close at them, a few years ago I had to replace a counter. I can see from where the old went that the case is actually gray

guess they faded to green LOL

I have seen them before, they arent painted.

I will take a pic when I get home for (entertainment purposes only) LOL

I dont know why anyone would paint them this color, they are ugly as sin

could be faded I guess

LOL

well the ones I just bought are a gray color.

the ones I have had for years are an olive green, I dont know where that falls into the age timeline lol

on the non skid of my Grady White, I just use the Boat Deck cleaner with PTEF they sell at Boat US, usually Star Brite brand.

I just put it on, work it in, give it a few minutes, scrub a little more then hose it off. Just follow the directions

I think it works just fine. You dont need much, its highly concentrated. My buddy thought he would do me a favor and did mine once and used the whole bottle, I about crapped my pants lol

http://www.amazon.com/Starbrite-Non-skid-Deck-Cleaner-Protector/dp/B003CYTNPY

If you do change the t/d consider an Airmar P-66.

I changed out one on my 28c hd (the old one just went dead) and the difference is remarkable.

And if it does not solve the problem you can always sell it, its a great unit.

wow Aaron thanks for the pics! Great info.

Actually I was going to take them apart this winter and give them a good going over, and also paint them black since I dont like the color.

Also the wiring has been re done on them and its real light gauge, my original 2 look just like yours with that white cable.

So I am going to get rid of the light gauge stuff and there are also real small toggle switches I am going to replace with heavier ones.

From the motor shafts I think all 4 are the older ones, they have notches in the shafts. I will probably just run with them the way they are for now.

Its bent down so I dont think it was from a dock. Maybe a kid was hanging from it or something LOL

I wont worry about it, just thought I would ask

thats very cool Aaron!!

I love home made stuff that saves tons of $$$ !!!

yep 133 per motor. Motor and worm gear are like 120 each if i remember correctly. they changed the worm gear so you have to replace both parts. They also use different drag washers they are keyed instead of a flat spot. Comparing 400 for a new rigger i opted for motors.

so on the ones I just bought, I can tell if they changed the motors by looking for the keyed drag washer?

they do look different and thicker than my old ones, I know those have not been changed. But I did not take the drag knob off and look

the 2 that I just bought did have some work done on them.

The switches are not on the top, there are blanks in thier place and toggles are on the sides.

Also, the drag washers are different than on my other 2. They look a lot thicker.

I dont know if the motors have been changed or if there is a way to tell or not.

Im sure the motor will handle it I am more concerned with the booms.

Maybe the guy hung it up on the bottom and had the drag cranked too tight, I dont know

these are old riggers. I dont care about the speed at this point.

Just want to know how much weight I can safely hang on the booms

thanks

Guys

Bought 2 used older Walkers to compliment the ones I have.

They have 4 ft booms, my current ones are shorties.

The one boom has a slight bend to it, which I can live with for now. I may cut it off after the bend since its right at the rigger.

These are 1 piece aluminum booms.

The question I have is how heavy a ball can these hold? I dont want to bend it more.

thanks!!!

thanks. no auto stop. I have the most basic Walkers you can get.

I will look for the Walker retrievers.

traxtech retrievers are here

http://traxstech.com/Downrigger_Mounts.html

thanks!!

the traxtrek retriever looks like the way to go

the ones I have found from Cannon (I had those years ago) and the Scottys units are all about the same price but for a few bucks more the Traxtrek units looks a lot better.

Thanks Ryan, interesting thought.

How do I deal with the weight being way out behind the boat?

I assume you use a ball retriever of some kind, what do you suggest?

I was going to ask that anyway since I have only dealt with short boom riggers in the past.

The guy I bought them from upgraded his riggers and went from 4 to 3, he said he uses the 3rd rigger mostly for the probe only, that way he can check speed and temps at various depths while he is fishing, sounds like a good idea too.

I dont have tracks but the bases are easily removable. They are sliding mounts that are kind of like a track, they are the same size as the bases, and have a tounge and groove locking arrangement, sort of like an upside down track. They work well and are super sturdy. I have never seen them before I got this boat.

oh and thanks for the compliments on the boat!

made my day!

I ended up buying them since I got a great price on them

I will swap them out with my short ones, these are 4 fters.

I have spares if nothing else. If I was just to replace the booms with longer ones it would be almost what I paid for the riggers and they also came with swivel bases.

Hmmm

you guys have given me a lot to think about.

maybe I am better off with the 2 riggers.

right now I can run up to 3 dipsys per side (but usually run 2) and boards if I need to along with the 2 riggers.

I think I will just forget about them and work on perfecting my current spread.

I have not bought them yet.

I want to run this by you guys.

Right now I have 2 short arm Walker electrics that I run off the sides. They are in the back corners.

I am getting 2 more 4fters to match and run those as my boom riggers.

The issue I am going to have is the corner rigger on the kicker side.

I am afraid my rigger cable will get fouled in my kicker.

What are your suggestions? Maybe angle that corner rigger at 45 degrees? or just run it off the side like I do now?

this is the best pic I could find on my pc, I can get better pics this weekend, I am bringing the boat home to do some work on it

thanks

its only about $10. I dont think thats out of line.

I am buying some other stuff from an online tackle place, I will just add it to the order.

I would rather be safe than sorry

thanks