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Everything posted by AllenW

  1. Thanks, best I can tell is they want somewhere between $450 and $500 for 2 nights stay? That was a 2 bedroom, two beds in one room would work. Might be a bit spendy for me. Al
  2. I used to stay at the Whispering Pines motel just out of Silver Bay, they appear to be out of business now, web site seems down and phone number no longer is for them. Anybody heard what's happening there? Also am now looking for something similar to stay at while we fish from Silver Bay to Duluth, reasonably safe and priced, any suggestions? TIA Al
  3. Your probably right, I remembered the bending of the arm upward and adding the ring to help bring the board forward, it worked great when I run a lot of colors, (6-10) and long lines. Like I mentioned, I thought I made the thread a favorite, but must have not. Thanks. al
  4. That would be it. Thanks Much! Al
  5. Maybe I'm getting old, but seems I remember a post about modifying the off shore boards by adding a notebook ring binder to the anchor point, moving the lead weight forward and relocating a eye screw, also maybe mods on another brand. Post was older and I thought I made it a favorite, evidently not. Anybody remember the thread? TIA Al
  6. Ya, your prob right, did see Sealine has a high cap, 6 to 1 levelwind for about $110, but may as well get the LC sealine, good point, thanks. Al
  7. I am trying to find a high capacity, high retrieve ratio (6 to 1) reel that will hold appox 100 yards of 20# braid as backer, 10 colors of Suffix 832 leadcore and about a 100 yards of 14# mono. I believe the Diawa SG57LC5 has the 6 to 1 and will hold all the line, I do not need the line counters, so looking for a non linecounter reel and have come up with a Diawa Saltist STTLW30HA or STTLW40HA reel. The Saltist are more than I want to spend, but are sweet reels and I think I can spurge for at least one. I'm not sure which one to buy though, the 30 seems size wise to be the best fit for trolling for trout/salmon but unsure if it will hold the line I want, the 40 will hold it for sure but may be to big for what I'm doing with it. I usually just run spoons and hardbaits with this set up for the most part. Maybe I should just stick with the Sealine but if the 30 will work, it'd be a nice set up. Any thoughts?? TIA al
  8. Having trouble finding bead chain with ends, can you help? tia al
  9. We'll see what happens, I doubt I'll go much past 200 foot, but it was on sale and I got 300 foot for close to the same price. I might pick up some from Carr, at least for the rigger with the Fish hawk on it, thanks. I am using either 10# balls or the torpedo style at about 12#'s now, if I start to get to much bow back I'll try the braided line, I have my lead core reels using a braided backer now. al
  10. Thanks all, I ordered the 300 footers, just in case.. Al
  11. Still new at this, have been getting better, but I see bottom fish at deeper than 150 foot and wonder if I'm missing anything. Al
  12. I'm looking at replacing the 150' cable on my 2 cannon Mag 10 riggers, I see 200,300 and 400' cables on sale, any suggestions on length I should look at?? I fish mostly the north shore of Superior, is there a depth maximum I should consider? It was suggested that 300 foot is max for trout, I don't know? TIA al
  13. Been fishing that area lately and had better luck running the flasher and bait 20-25 foot behind the ball, not sure why but they didn't hit closer for us. Went last thursday/friday and hit 14 Lakers. Al
  14. I found the Sam's were very easy to adjust, you needed a screwdriver would be my only complaint Worked well for braid or mono, don't use copper so don't know how that works. With 10 colors in white cap waters before, the off shores sat pretty tail heavy in the water and were hard to tell when a small fish hit, least for me they were, we were in rough water this time and between the lighter set drags and the boards being more level it worked better for us. Al
  15. Just an update, I took two of my off shores and moved the rear eyelet to the back and used the OR 16 with the pin as suggested, installed the sam's pro release and heated and bent the anchor for that release upwards, then removed the lead weights, and cut out the little divider to move the weights forward. With 6 and 10 colors both rode level and did move further out by a little bit. Much easier to see when a fish strikes. I used a split ring a bit smaller than a half dollar to attach the release, if I use a bigger split ring will the planer boar come up even more towards the front of he boat, they still lag a bit further behind than you pictures here? I also loosened the drag up a bit to where it was just holding and that helped on them small fish that I used to drag all over.. Anyway, THANKS MUCH!! They are much easier to deal with. Oh...hit 14 Lakers for the two days out, biggest 26", lost about 4 and had 4 foot waves on Friday so our day was cut short, slowly getting better, thanks in a big part to you guys. Al
  16. I run mostly just leadcore or snap weights off my boards, I'll stay with the offshore's and do the mods on them and see what happens, thanks. Al
  17. So if you have to pick a board that is available, what would it be? tia al
  18. Been hesitant to loosen drag to much, not everybody I fish with understands 12 or 14# test and how much drag you can add, but I'll try loosening them up a bit more and see, been trying to split the difference between normally set drag and drag light enough to tell when a bit hits. Line to the planer board has been in the water for a fair piece of it, I'll raise the rod tip and that should help. I run a 20 foot Larson and fish usually with just two of us, rarely three. MN has a 2 line max so I don't get the spread out you guys do. Even Wisc with three lines means normally 6 lines out, 2 rigger, and two boards each side, leadcore on a couple, snap weights on one or two and maybe just a diving hardbait on one of then. The few boards and different set ups make it hard for me to tell when a board is out of place, more time on the water and better (mod) boards should help. Al
  19. I have been running the rods low in the mount, didn't know they should be raised, I'll change that next time out. Bigger fish no problem, many times they'll pull the boards down or pull line out, it's those small 2# or so fish I have trouble with. I'll dump the tattle flags and springs for now and see how this works for me, sounds like I won't need them. Got a good start on correcting the problems I'm having, thanks all. al
  20. Thanks, but as of now I don't run copper, so I don't know how that relates to the lead core I'm using. Will the Offshore boards do 10? colors? Seasons almost over for us, but I'll pick up a couple new boards and do the AA mod to them and see if they work better. Wonder if I should raise the anchor point as the blood mod suggests too? I've been using the flags as I seem to hit a lot of small trout and if they run level, it seems to work well. Once I go from spoons to lead core though all bets are off. Hard to tell bites in rough water when the board is mostly under water. Thanks. Al
  21. Not sure how much weight/drag copper puts on a board, but with this mod can I run up to 10 colors and not have the board go tail down like it does now? I have one set (2) for walleyes and one that I have a heavier spring on for the tattle flags, but even the heavier springs are ok for spoons but not more than maybe 3 colors. ""In addition to the Jim and Gregg's setup techniques in the BloodRun blog, I would recommend viewing this YouTube how-to that the guys over at Anglers Avenue made on setting up the Offshore boards to stay on the line but not slide. Might be a very good way to improve your setups. ""Comparing the two methods, it seems for me anyway, the AA mod might be the easiest for me to start with, not sure plus's or minus's or either but it looked simpler..maybe? Just wondering with the Sams release sticking out a bit more with the board come further forward, I'm having trouble try to get the boards to come forward like the pictures I see. ? Wanna thank ya all, lots of good info on this forum. al
  22. Thanks all, first I don't have copper in my tackle box, mono or braid is what I normally use. Maybe someday, but still learning how to fish with what I have. I will try to find the mods to the boards, as now they sit so low in the water that windy days they get hard to tell if a fish is on or not, especially the small ones. I still like the idea of using a mast and maybe rubber band releases, at least at times. Hard to run and gun with then, but there's some longer trolling runs along the southern north shore of Superior. Still playing with the springs on the flags, one spring just won't do walleyes and trout/salmon. Found the mods, I think I see one of the problems, I'm using the off shore walleye sized boards and he's is I think using the next size up, like a tx44, maybe?
  23. I'm currently running the yellow off shore in line planer boards. They work ok for spoons, hardbaits and such, but when I go to 5+ colors of leadcore they start to lose the battle. The TX44 boards are bigger but I don't like fighting the fish and the bigger board. The masted set up I have gets to be a bit much for the few lines I run, usually one or two boards per side, so I'm thinking of a board about half the size of the dual board Riveria's I have now. Thinking single board, maybe easier to use considering 2 lines is about all I'd run on each board...maybe?? When I have ran the masted board it was nicer to just fight the fish, but smaller boards would be nice in the 20 boat I have for storage and use. Anybody? tia Al
  24. Thanks, more time on the water I see. I'm finding what works on the smaller MN lakes doesn't always read well on the deeper waters of Superior, been a learning process for me. Al
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