SeaCatMich

4 Ace High plugs where line broke with fish on (all on one trip). Line was not bad but currents had fish getting into other lines. Respooled anyway

1 BW UV flasher with UV meat head (failed welded ring on Deeper Diver)

3 spoons (on 4 of the plug lines above)

Aside from the one trip (only went 4 for ~15 where lots of other fish also got off) it wasn't bad.

Welcome Jack. Now lets see some pictures of them great big Lake O fish!

Georgian Bay is Lake H But I would really love to hear info from over there on the salmon fishery. With all the rumors of massive natural salmon coming from Georgian Bay tributaries, I would hope some are being caught there.

About 15 years ago I spent a week fishing the Parry Sound area for small mouth and pike. Had a great time but the boat we had was too small to go out beyond the islands to to for the open water fish.

Welcome to the site, Ryan. Having had a recent bad experience with the newly appointed moderator (never sent the rod he agreed to sell me) on your former site, there is even less motivation to post since you and Dave departed.

And maybe we won't have to deal with our other opinionated but clueless "friend" from there too . He's been at it again in recent days.

With it relatively early in the run, I would concentrate on holes that the fish will setup in. The fish in the lower river will still be aggressive but with the water low and clear more subtle lures such as streamer flies will probably work better than spoons, spinners, and crankbaits. If that doesn't work though "hotshotting" a crankbait into a hole 3' at a time can provoke good strikes. Just match the lure to the river current and depth keeping the lure 6" to 1' off the bottom.

I ran a rig with 4 no-hook soft body "swimbaits" and a spoon off a center connection 3' to 5' back. Tried it off a downrigger and on copper. No action while other lures did get hits - the same spoon clean and flasher/fly. Tried it two trips for a few hours each time -- early to mid morning.

Basically I was thinking of it like a BW grease trap or the old Les Davis 6 pack attractors but it was not successful.

Hi Jeff. Welcome aboard.

Sure join in! I sure have... it is a friendly place to talk fishing

Yessir

What "school"?

Can we load all the poorly marked nets up before getting out the saws all? I'll bring the torches. What do you think we could get for the scrap ?

So that would be ALL of the nets???

I'm hoping to get some of my regulars together for the weekend and head out of Muskegon -- Saturday or Sunday... kind of depends on who can go when. I'm thinking of launching at Fisherman's Landing and checking for fish off the Cobb plant/mouth of the river and if they are there give some Buzz Bomb and ZZinger jigging a try. If no fish or no success, then head for the big lake!

Go out to deeper water (150-300') and fish like spring/summer. If you have down temp find the high 40* water and/or watch the graph for marks. I would also run a couple of 2-5 color leadcores off boards to target coho. Spoons seem to be the better bait for me in the fall... plus I can run a little faster speed when trolling to cover more water to find the fish.

Did this a lot in St. Joe in Oct/Nov back 5 years ago or so with great success on steel, kings, and coho plus the occasional suspended lake trout that got returned (out of season). Didn't get out last fall but in 2010 fished a couple of times out of Whitehall and went to the deeper water just south of Little Pt. Sable and had lots of young kings schooling deep -- that was the year that we had hot water stacked to 90' deep for most of the summer.

It has been a while since I have needed to tie an Albright, so I went out to lookup how to do it on the web. I found two good "how to" demonstrations on YouTube (below) but they are slightly different with the second one being more complex. Which one is the preferred way to do it and is the easier way (top video) equivalent to the complex (bottom video) one?

The second one has twice as many wraps around the thicker line but also has the thin line wrapping on itself which in most knots is a no-no as it will cut itself.

Why don't you just pop the plate to the up position when you are going to need more throttle to get the speed you want? It is likely in that situation you could run without the plate down at a little lower RPM. Easy to put it back down by putting the boat in neutral when you need it again.

I really do like fishing solo and did it a lot when I lived closer to the lake. It is one of the reasons that I went with a center console boat. It is also one of the reasons that I put an auto pilot on. The AP really does help when fighting a fish solo by keeping the boat straight and being able to steer quickly one direction or the other a specified number of degrees by pressing a button. I use it almost all of the time trolling BUT I rarely fish in the pack solo. When I do it is on the outside edge which can often be more productive anyway.

Some things I do if pack fishing solo (usually when the pack moves out and envelopes me):

1) Go to heavier line (30#) which lets you crank down the drag a lot -- you won't get as much on the reel but you don't have the room to worry about a 100 yard run from the fish either;

2) Slow way down on a hit -- you don't need the forward motion of the boat contributing to how far the fish gets off the boat. This is where an AP really can help to keep the boat straight when at a crawl.

3) Fight the fish aggressively. Keep the pressure on it and don't let it rest or get any line easily. You won't have more than 3 lines in the water and you can space them out -- 2 outdowns, 1 diver or visa versa -- so fighting the fish close to the boat does not have nearly the risk as out in the deep water.

4) Keep the leads relatively short -- around 40' off riggers max and 100' or less for divers (if traffic permits) with the diver on a 2 at most.

5) Don't use planer boards. When I lived and fished in St. Joe there were a couple of big (30'+) boats that regularly put out 2 inline boards on each side to make a fairway for them to fish in right off the pier heads. It is rude to the other boats but it also means you have that much more line to reel in when a fish hits. They did it during both the fall combat fishing and in July for Skamania.

6) Have 2 nets. I have had nearly as many doubles (and triples) fishing solo than with others on the boat. This is especially true fishing staging fish since they are in schools and I have found the quick random moves of the boat will cause multiple hook ups. Much easier to have a second net ready than to try to get the first fish out to net number two.

7) Steer to "open" water. Since you don't have that many lines out, you can be more maneuverable. Steer your boat toward areas without other boats if you can.

Definately not done. Some of the northern rivers have started getting some fish and I have heard of a few up in the Newaygo area on the Muskegon but still lots of mature fish being caught out in the big lake. Recent weather has not permitted a lot of guys to get out and this week doesn't look very good either. The northern blow moved some cold water near shore a couple days ago but the winds have gone back south/south-west and is warming back up rapidly. I would say there are going to be mature fish for trolling for another 2-3 weeks from Muskegon south.

Here is a link to the type I have used for quite a while. It is called a Chine Anchor and seems to anchor solidly quicker and release easier when it's time to go than a standard fluke anchor. I have the medium size on my ~4500# loaded boat.

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Chene-Anchor-recommended-for-16-25-boats&i=33822&aID=602A3&merchID=4006

It does a good job on my current boat and my previous 22' WAC. The Chine anchor does not use a chain but it is very important on a regular fluke anchor to keep the lifting arm down to let the anchor flukes dig into the bottom. Then as Jim says, you need to make sure there is enough rode out depending on the depth of water and seas. Prior to getting the Chine ancor, I used the standard fluke style anchor with the solid arm -- it is now my backup.

We don't get it too much on Lake Michigan unless you get north to the islands area on the Michigan side, but if you do have rocks a grappling hook type is a good option. It will hook into the rocks but if it gets stuck the hooks will bend if you use the boat to power it loose. Down in the Florida Keys it is a very popular anchor for fishing. (http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Grapple-Buddy-Boat-Anchor&i=86954&aID=602A3&merchID=4006)

Saw this ad on the UP CraigsList. If we pooled $10 each would only need 1350 of us to buy it and put it out of commission.

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Fishing vessel - $13500 (Bay Mills Point, Mi)

Date: 2012-09-05, 5:41PM EDT

Great Lakes Commercial Fishing or Hobby Vessel, built in Milwaukee Wisconsin 1935. 48 foot x 13 foot x 6 draft. Engine: Cat D-13000 6 inline, power take off, pony motor starter, twin disk gear, 4" propeller shaft, Complete 30" Crosby Gill Net Lifter, Large Rudder, Coal or Wood Stove, Side door Steering, small propane cook stove. Has minor exterior damage to roof and port holes. Asking $13,500.00. Price negotiable.

It's so cool when the kids get involved.

And the fish look a whole lot bigger when they hold them

Nice post Ryan. Muskegon does have a fish cleaning station, but its at the OTHER end of Muskegon Lake at Fishermans Landing. Great ramps with 3 or 4 docks, plus docks along the channel where you can tie up your boat. You can launch a 30'er there. There fish cleaning station is small.

What I heard was that the Fisherman's Landing cleaning facility was only available to those with slips.

If it is available to ramp only users that would be great. How about if I launch at Grand Trunk... since I paid a City Launch fee, can I go to Fisherman's Landing to clean fish?

Good sturdy metal rod holders are important for salmon fishing with divers. If your boat has a railing in the rear a good option to get started with divers would be rail mount rod holders.

If you don't have a rail, most boats come equipped with at least a pair of flush mount rod holders. Unfortunately these are not real useful for salmon fishing. You might actually find it easier and cheaper to go with a pair of used manual downriggers mounted on gimbal mounts to go in the flush mount rod holders than to go with rod holders suitable for divers. Many downriggers will have 2 rod holders with a great deal of adjustment. This would also give you the option to run both rigger rods and/or divers. I did this when I first started fishing with divers before adding separate diver rod holders.

Maybe you could post a picture of your boat's fishing area and we could make more specific suggestions.

Upon hearing that Holland put in the new fish cleaning station across from the DNR launch ramp, I started launching there a lot the past two years. The ramp is decent and the big lot has plenty of parking. Overall it is a very nice facility.

What I don't understand is why other ports on the south end of the lake don't improve their facilities -- especially as far as fish cleaning facilities. From Muskegon south, the only other town that I know of that has a fish cleaning facility at the public ramp is South Haven.

There are quite a few factors that determine how often I'll go to a specific port. A ramp that is long enough and deep enough to handle my boat is another. Then I factor in whether there are fish there at the time of year for the trip. The last factor is how far is the ramp from the lake. Assuming that I the ramp is big enough to let me launch and it is a viable time at that port to expect to go catch fish, whether there is a fish cleaning facility available is a VERY SIGNIFICANT determining factor in my selection of one port over another.

Muskegon, Grand Haven and Holland are all about the same distance for me to trailer to. In summer I have now decided that Holland gets my business because of the fish cleaning. From mid August on, I would much prefer to go to Muskegon or Grand Haven because those two rivers have a lot more salmon staging than the Black in Holland does. Neither is a "favorite" though because there are no fish cleaning available.

Don't these towns realize how many fishermen that trailer there boats will go to another port because of this? It is especially true if I want to go for more than one day.

Here's a quick run down of the ports from south to north.

• New Buffalo -- good ramp, near lake, no cleaning station
  
• St. Joe -- 2 good ramps, quite a ways from lake & all no wake, no cleaning station (but I hear that the SW Mich Steelheaders are spearheading getting one at the city ramp on the island)
  
• South Haven -- good ramp, long ways up river w/ bridges, fish cleaning
  
• Saugatuck -- 2 facilities... downtown ramp bad w/ poor parking, up river ramp too far from lake, no cleaning downtown... up river ???
  
• Holland -- good ramp, medium distance from lake, best cleaning facility on Lake Michigan
  
• Grand Haven -- good ramp, lonnnng way from lake & all no wake, no fish cleaning
  
• Muskegon -- lots of ramps of varying quality, distance depends on where you launch, no fish cleaning
  ******** Note the difference from here north :) *************
  
• Whitehall/Montague -- good ramp, lonnng way to lake, nice fish cleaning facility but small
  
• Pentwater --Bad ramp, but nice cleaning station.
  
• Ludington -- 2 nice ramps, close to lake, 2 nice fish cleaning facilities (plus if you stay at either city marina, they too have cleaning stations)
  
• Manistee -- great ramps, close to lake, facility isn't great but there is one (needs a grander...can get smelly)
  
• Onekema -- ramp okay, long way to lake, ???
  
• Arcadia -- good ramp, close to lake, no cleaning but close enough Frankfort to drive there
  
• Frankfort -- ramp okay, close to lake, cleaning station good (wish it had a grinder)
  
• Leeland -- ramp small but good, close to lake, ???? (long time since I have been there)
  

Shimano Talora 8' wire rods, and Tekota 600 lc for reels here. The Talora rods are worth the money. You could get buy with a lesser reel.

I started with Daiwa SG47LCA reels on 7' Talora roller rods. Reels were fine with 1,000' of 30# wire fitting perfectly on the spool and fighting fish on the 7' rods was a blast. When I went to 5' booms on my outdown riggers the clearance was a little to close for comfort so I tried the Gander Mountain 8' roller rods. They were good quality (very similar to the Taloras ) but I didn't like that they only had a regular butt cap and no gimbal to keep the rod upright in the rod holder. Since they didn't have a swivel roller on the tip it was not good to have the wire running off the roller when they got turned to the side or upside down.

After two years I sold the GMs and went back to Taloras but 8'ers. At that point lots of people were raving about the Tekotas so I got a pair and put 1,000' of 30# on and again it fit nearly perfectly. I was happy but managed to find a great deal on a pair of 9' Talora rollers with the swivel tips -- a $240 rod new, but I got a pair off Craigslit for $150 :grin:

I am very satisfied with the Talora 9' paired with the Tekota 600LC. I'm not sold that the 600LC is all that much better than the SG47LCA though -- especially for the price difference. I have used wire outfits setup on rods with "regular" eyes and Twillie Tips and the roller rods are much smoother to reel in. I would highly recommend going with a full roller rod. The Taloras are pricey but what makes them the best in my book is how light they are compared to other brands. You don't get worn out by the rod when fighting a fish.

Nice box of fish! I doubt it will be their last trip out with you.

Hey Ryan, Good to see you here.

Hi Rod. I'm starting to feel pretty welcome with lots of guys I have known through the web for years here too.

My rigger rods never go any higher than 20# mono. Even way back when we had much bigger Kings in Lake Michigan. Shouldn't have a problem at all.