SeaCatMich

I have been going with 60" from the loop/bead-chain to the end of the hooks for the last 2 years. I varied it some before settling on the 60" but found that that is the length that Big Weenie ships and I did much better on the BW rigs out of the package than I did with other lengths. Maybe it is just the speed I troll at, but I figure why mess with something that works.

Here is a link to the T-Bolt bracket that Traxstech offers to mount standard tracks to the sport track system: http://traxstech.com/T-Bolt_Bracket.html

This will be season 3 for me with the FishHawk X4. It replaced a Depth Raider and the reduced blow back along with using regular cable makes it worth it. Does a great job -- had it as deep as 230' last year.

If I was buying a unit right now though, I would seriously consider the new Smart Troll. The main reason is that you can monitor the speed, temp, and depth on up to 6 different lines at the same time by just adding a probe. Due to the cost associated with losing a $150 probe, I'd only use it on my downriggers with 150# wire. The one thing I don't like about the FishHawk is you can really only have one on the boat. The Smart Troll solves this and would allow me to get a better handle on what each presentation was doing -- especially with the different current speeds and directions we get down there.

Cost wise the Smart Troll buy in cost is a little more but I think the upside is really good. The hype is to be able to use your Android phone as the display. Personally after seeing it a few weeks ago at the GR show, I'd go with a $100 Android tablet dedicated to that and a couple of other Android apps that would be useful on the boat. A 7 or 10" tablet would be much better viewing than my 4" max cell phone screen would offer.

Starboard would also be good. Nearly indestructible and can be worked and cut just like wood. There is a local materials outlet here in Lansing that has it as surplus from their manufacturing business. Not expensive at all.

I am going to make a board as well to do the same thing. I'm planning on using screw in hooks similar to what would be used on a coat hook. They have a good selection at most of the home improvement stores.

Wow. Looks very good. Got to ride in a SeaSwirl 2601 last spring down at Toledo Beach on Erie -- did a test for a friend that was considering one. It was impressive. Same engine as yours and we were going 30 mph through a 2 1/2' Erie chop without thinking about it. Look out fishies!

Sportcrafts can be good boats, but they have also had problems with stringers going bad. Get some history on the boat -- more important if it was ever slipped. I'd probably get it surveyed to make sure it is good shape. Typically Sportcrafts are not the fanciest boat but if your intention is for fishing they are well suited for that.

The only complaint I have heard about the Sportcraft hardtop is that they can act as a sail at times catching the wind. Overall with our fickle Great Lakes weather you will end up appreciating having it in spring, fall, and rain.

As for the trolling plate, get a pair of trolling bags instead. In addition to slowing the boat and keeping the engine RPMs up a little for charging, they help keep the boat stable in rougher conditions by holding the boat down.

For that size hull I'd check to see if there are trim-tabs. They will help you plane out sooner (at lower RPMs) and make keeping the boat level in when angling across waves onn plane or trolling. They also will let you level the boat if you have an uneven load on board.

Thanks Nick. The recon is appreciated.

As long as you don't mount it right behind one of the props or on a strake on the hull, it probably doesn't matter too much where it is on the transom. Unlike a depth sounder transducer you don't use most features of the FishHawk all that much until trolling. Surface temp can be used when on plane to find surface breaks but 90% of the time you use it going slow. Consequently air turbulence gong over the transducer isn't a big problem.

On I/O or O/B boats I usually put the depth sounder transducer on the starboard side and the Fishhawk on the port. With the prop direction going clockwise when viewed from off the stern, the prop wash created on starboard side is down away from the hull while the port side is coming up toward the hull (and any transducer mounted there). Since the FishHawk is a receive only transducer it is better off on the noisy side. On an inboard, not a clue... but maybe that will help you figure out if one location would be better than another.

As for distance from the downrigger, I have used my X4 probe on both of my outdown riggers but primarily on my starboard rear. On my 8.5' beam boat it worked well in all locations. The real advantage of mounting it near the primary downrigger it will be used on is routing the cable from the transducer to the display... if the display is going near the downrigger. If it's going at the helm, then cable routing for the connection might still be a factor and on most boats that still points toward a starboard location.

That would be great. I'm afraid that over here near Lansing, Gander Mountain and Dick's are our only options and neither has much.

The last few times I was down to the Dundee Cabela's the line selection was pretty bad. I'm hoping the Grandville store being much closer to Lake Michigan is better for salmon gear. I much prefer to buy from a local place but at least a local branch of a national store employs people locally. Unfortunately getting to a west side store when they are open is also a challenge.

Love my costa del mars rincons, going on the 3rd season"knocking on wood". No problems at all, from the end of the season, you will see how good they are when it's all still white where your lenses are.

I get the racoon look every spring. At least I have improved and have not got sunburned in at least 4 years after the first trip of the year

Thanks. They haven't stopped making the Ande Tournament... it is still on the corp web page... but have not seen at a local shop for over a year and all of the catalog stores show it out of stock. I'd much prefer to find it at a local store but the only source I have found right now is eBay. Found out that Sufix is now owned by Rapala. I'm actually hoping to find a 2400-3000 yard spool because the 300 yard reel-filler size are real expensive compared to bulk.

Any line that has abrasion resistance is key and worth the extra expense for guys who fish tournaments, charters and worry about losing a $20 paddle/meat rig combo. Any serious fisherman has lost fish wrapped around wire divers, coppers and downrigger cables...it just happens. Based upon your regular visits and responses to these internet forums, surely Ryan you fish hundreds of hours and land hundreds of fish a year and must have experienced at least 1 lost fish due to a line break? One???

I didn't say none but I can say in 40+ years I have only had 2 fish get into the rigger cables and only lost 1 of those and it was my 14 year old nephew on his first trip 5 years ago. Did take a bunch of scuffed up line off to get to the undamaged line though after both. I can count on one hand how many tangles have cost us a fish and even then it was not a break off. And yes that's with running no heavier than 20# test and most of the time it is 17 or less -- 12 to 15 in the spring/early summer.

As far as break offs, the boat had one real bad trip last year out of Holland where we had 3 break off because they got into a leadcore and a wire diver -- Mull was with me and the day was a disaster as far as landing fish with us going 7 or 8 for about 24 but the rest just got off -- and they were not Coho or Steelhead. The rest of the year didn't have any break offs with 216 fish landed out of 226 hooked.

I also really work to land every fish we hook. For the most part we don't bring them to the boat "hot" and the wide openness of the SeaCat makes it nice to fight them and land them cleanly.

I'm meticulous with my tackle as far as checking lines and knots. In 1999 it was my first spring after moving to St. Joe and I was real eager to get on the water. Didn't do my usual winter routine due to moving and paid the price of not respooling with new line. The 15# Big Game was in bad shape. Broke off 3 or 4 of the fish on that first trip. At $5 per lure plus the fish, I have never made that mistake again and alway check line at the start of each season and generally replace the mono each year. 12 - 14# on the SG27LCA's each spring and then the 17 or 20# on the SG47LCA and Ticas at mid season.

If I could find the Ande I would be all set but every where I have checked is out of stock or wants too much for shipping. No one had it or any other good bulk spool line at a decent price at the shows either. Thus why I started the thread. Maybe I'm picky

I have a pair of Maui Jim's with the titanium light weight frames that I use in relatively low light conditions or cloudy days. When it is really bright I go to a pair of Costa Del Mar with plastic frames and wrap around lenses that really cut out the reflected glare off the water. Both polarized of course.

At the end of last year I also picked up a pair at Gander Mountain that have a magnifying lens area toward the bottom. Didn't use them too much last year but with the 50+ eyes not doing as good for up close work like knot tying thought they might be worth a try.

If you like lighter mono try, 15lb maxima ,its a little pricey but this stuff is awsome, ive got it in 12 lb on my trolling rods for in the river and have yet to break off in 3 seasons on the same line, i also like it in 15 on my riggers.

So it isn't too stiff? On of my best friends is mainly a bass fisherman and he uses it mainly for fishing in the ugly stuff because of its toughness. The last time I looked at it, it seemed pretty stiff but it was probably 20#+ rated. They are also one of the brands that I think way under sells the breaking strength rating of their products. Their 15# should probably be labeled 20+.

I haven't seen it in a store in a long time. It used to only come in a very dark color too... is it available in clear or a lighter green?

I got an email back from Blood Run thanking me for pointing out the error on the website and that they updated it. At least the opening paragraph of the description is now different.

I may have to get a spool to try it out. I do have some trouble believing the 30x more abrasion resistant claim though. To me that means that if "regular" line took 100 back and forth rubs before being roughed up or breaking, then the Blood Run "tournament" stuff would take 3,000 of the same rubs. That's an awfully big ratio.

Its diameter is pretty much the same as most premium 20# test mono at .017 inch and unfortunately in my opinion, almost all of them test higher than rated. The 20# test Stren Original, Berkley Big Game, Ande Premium, and Sufix Superior are all .018 in diameter. Those same lines in are .014 to .016 in diameter for their 15 or 16# test. Ande Tournament and Sufix Titanium Plus are actually .016 in diameter.

In fact, if the line breaks at 25# then why isn't it rated at that instead of 20#. If they are claiming the line is the equivalent diameter of other manufacturer's 16# test (which it isn't), then promote it as a 25# test line with the diameter of a 16 or 20#. That's what the Power Pro and Fireline super braids do.

I really wish companies would shoot straight with their claims. It isn't like the information isn't readily available to be found out. It is one thing for a person to state an opinion... entirely different for a company to publish misleading or false information as facts.

Rod, I think it is just a piece of the strip dangling off the rear. Probably where the rear hook was in the strip before the fish hit. Frank says that one was after the third fish on it.

I saw the purple "Tournament" line on the Blood Run website. The description for it and the "regular" downrigger line is identical though. The only hint of any difference is in the product picture. I emailed them to ask what makes the "Tournament" line so much better and worth twice the price.

I do wish that they would make it in something other (less) than 20# test. I'm probably going to regret saying this out loud , but break offs have never been a big problem for me nor has fish getting into the rigger lines. It isn't like we are fishing for bass with weeds, rocks, and branches for the fish to get into out there on the big lakes. Aside from the downriggers there just isn't anything out there for the fish to get into and break off. If the drag is set right I don't see the need for any main line over 20# and based on my results, I subscribe to the same philosophy as Dan Keating and beleive the lighter lines get more hits -- especially when fishing spoons.

My King Strips and Ballyhoo order arrived on Thursday. Looks good Frank! Now lets get 55*+ for a few days in a row and I'll hit the water.

P-line in 25# or 30# works ausome never had a problem in two seasons. I ran 25# on my riggers in clear blue and 30# in clear for my high divers didn't break off hardly any last year and the ones that did break was due to human error.

Thanks, I like PLine and use it for my 8# walleye spinning outfits. But for 300+ yards on a salmon reel it is too expensive to me -- nearly twice the cost of others (Ande & Sufix). On my rigger rods I usually run 12# test for spoons/plugs and 17# for flashers until July and then go to 17# for spoons/plugs and 20# for flashers/meat. Break offs are never an issue -- we use the drag and if necessary slow down the boat.

I have to respool a bunch of my rigger rods with mono and I'm considering a different line. In the past I have used mainly Ande Tournament in green and pink. Not sure what's happened but it isn't readily available anymore. I also have used Momoi Hi Catch but I wasn't overly impressed. Same for Big Game. So, I'm looking at something else.

I have heard good things about Sufix and found some Sufix Superior at a good price, but I have never used it and don't know anyone that has used it. I'm also considering going back to original Stren.

Anyone had any experience with the Sufix Superior? Any other suggestions?

If you do use the St. Joe marina island launch

1) The $5 per vehicle is for all vehicles -- if you have a tow vehicle and someone else meeting you there, it is $5 each... and you don't want to pay the fine of not getting the daily permit (don't ask )

2) Don't go very far downstream from the ramps to go across the river. It gets shallow REALLY quick. Go in daylight the first time or two.

I have a pair of 300' of 45# copper setups. I'm just not interested in putting any presentation out any further than 300'. I also have 2 ten color leadcore, 2 five color, 1 three color, and a two color.

When I want to get deeper than that or to an in between depth, I add Dive Bomb and Torpedo Diver weights. I'll also change to a lure that runs at a slower speed and slow the speed of the troll which will cause weighted lines to drop substantially deeper -- 30% deeper running 2.1 mph than 2.5.

http://www.grindtv.com/outdoor/excursions/post/river-monster-barracuda-is-nearly-7-feet-long-102-pounds/

I think we wouldn't have an Asian Carp problem if we could just get a few barracuda like this one to survive our winter weather.

Monster barracuda is nearly 7-feet long, 102 pounds

Potential world-record fish taken in Angola is way bigger than average

April 02, 2013 by David Strege

Fishing for tarpon was slow on the Cuanza River in Angola, so when Thomas Gibson hooked into a giant fish that took a scorching run and stayed close to the surface, he and his fishing partner thought, finally, a tarpon.

But what came to the boat was not only a huge fish, but a huge surprise.

“It came to the boat fairly easily (too easily for a tarpon!) and once I got hold of the leader and pulled it up to the surface, we saw it was a HUGE barracuda,†Cam Nicolson wrote in an email to GrindTV Outdoor. “It was bigger than any barracuda I had seen.â€

The barracuda—a Guinean barracuda, to be exact—measured 6.9-feet long and weighed a potential all-tackle world-record 102 pounds.

“I have never seen anything like it,†Iain Nicolson, Cam’s brother, told Sport Fishing.

Indeed, Guinean barracuda in the Cuanza River typically average 10-20 pounds with the biggest the Nicolson’s of Angola have caught previously being around 65 pounds.

Gibson, a Houston resident who is an expert at catching tarpon, submitted the recent catch to the International Game Fish Association, the keeper of fishing world records. The IGFA is currently reviewing the potential record.

The current record is 101 pounds, 3 ounces, also caught in Africa. That fish was landed by Dr. Cyril Fabre in Olende, Gabon.

Amazingly, the one Gibson hooked took less than 10 minutes to land, but it came with one harrowing moment.

“We only had a lip gaff onboard [seen in photo below], so that was a little too close to the teeth for comfort,†Cam Nicolson said.

Not sure of the credentials of whoever wrote the piece, but there are many fundamental errors in the information and wasn't fact checked very well.

Many dance clubs have black lights as part of their lighting. Amazing how bright certain white shirts were/are in that environment.

In theory a lure that reflects UV can be seen by salmon when other colors can't be seen because the light frequencies of the visible spectrum (red, yellow, green, blue, and violet) are filtered out as you get deeper in the water column while UV (ultraviolet) is not filtered out as deep.

There are also substances that absorb light frequencies and in effect transmit light as the "stored" energy dissipates -- which is why glow and super-glow paints glow after you "charge" them with a light source and they glow longer when you use a very high intensity light like a camera flash. If that absorbed light is UV, it can be seen at further distances underwater in the horizontal plane as it is not filtered/absorbed by water as soon as the visible frequencies.

When a person sees an object glow under normal light you are seeing its visible spectrum light/color reflected off the object. Humans can't see UV light or UV glow. When you expose a UV sensitive object to a black light it glows in the visible spectrum but indicates that it is also glowing in the UV frequency/spectrum too. We consequently don't really know what a fish really sees as it is likely different that what we see, but it is assumed that because they at times respond to "UV" lures better than what we consider human visible spectrum lures fish/salmon can see UV. Maybe some day we will be able to ask them what it really looks like.