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1mainiac

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Posts posted by 1mainiac

  1. Hey Dan spent a little time on infinity website really like that speaker I would suggest a bandpass enclosure as it will really tighten it up and protect the speaker as well. Personally I would use a 35hz cutoff on the low end before the amp no sense wasting power down below that point. The upper will roll off sharply around 125hz so take your choice of limiting it there or maybe useing 150hz as a upper crossover point. Myself I would go with the 150hz crossover point and EQ out the rolloff taking more load off my low mid speakers. On the other hand if you are looking to get hard tight bottom and the other speakers can handle it drop it down to 120hz. Get the biggest amp you can I seriouslly doubt you will be able to stay in the boat at levels approaching speaker damage power wise which if my math in my head is right would be around 1200w at 127db or about like having a 747 engine running full out next to you. Rock on

    Tight Lines

  2. Well I am not a expert on car stereo gear so I don't know all the specs for various brands. But here is one important spec to look at for bass see what the free air response range is this will tell you what a non inclosed speaker is capable of. A large portion of speaker design is in the cabinet proper cabinet design will increase the overall volume of a speaker however is does this by narrowing the freq range. For instance I have a set of EVM 12S speakers if I put them in a Fender Twin amp the are full range and will produce around 106db put them in a sealed cabinet like a Marshall and you will lose some of the upper freqs but they will get up to between 109 and 112db but put them in the tuned sub boxs that they are in and they have a useable freq range of about 80 to 1000hz and will crank out 121 to 124db install the step plates on the ports and they will run from 40 to 1000hz nearly flat eq wise at around 121db. That is pretty good for front load speakers with about a 60ft throw range. So try and remember that the installation and cabinet design is more important than any other aspect as cabinet design will effect freq range and timing more than any other thing you do to the system. Bass freqs are omnidirectional and do not even need to be multichannel so one good sub is all you should need in a small area. There are lots of crossover networks that provide a sum output for the subwoofer. Also keep in mind that the correct EQ setting changes as volume and accoustics change can't tell you how many times I have setup a perfect mix in a empty bar only to have it turn to mud when the room filled and humidity changed so remember a boat is not a sound lab so most of those lab specs will have very little to do with how it actually sounds only how much the componets cost. A thousand dollar set of speakers in a crappy location probably won't sound any better than a 20 dollar set of speakers in the same place. One other note that may help as you build a multi speaker system is that in a car and most likely on your boat you will be placeing the speakers in differant locations since I doubt you will be building a concert stack in your boat. You may find that changeing the phaseing on some of the speakers will improve the audio lets say you add a set of tweeters up on the dash and a nice sub under one of the seats odds are that you mid speakers will be closer to you than the others so reverse the wireing on them and see if it improves the sound.

    Tight Lines

  3. We use acetone or acrosol to prep and clean before applying decals on fiberglass. As for the airbrush work some of that will depend on what kind of paint he is using. When I had the mural painted on my old car I clear coated it and all went well however the same guy painted my bike tank and used differant paint and the clear coat ruined it so make sure it is all compatable paint.

    Tight Lines

  4. Pretty good article Dan however in the end he stated neither under powering nor overpowering will distroy the speaker which is correct. The reason I will allways insist on over powering is simple first I am smart enough and have very good ears that I have seldom blown speakers. For any of you who were at the Blues concert at Rockford this evening I was the bearded guy in jeans and a blue t shirt going back and forth between the stage and mixer during the first set. Gordy the owner of the sound company and long time friend asked me to come and find his EQ problem in the monitor system. Second and most important to the subject is to get good clean audio you need to set your gain structure correctly. This is done by keeping the volume knob turned down and minimizing EQ boost and letting the final amplifier do the work for most people a large final amp means very little boost from the volume knob will cause large voulume increases so unless you enjoy hearing your cones hammer you will avoid twisting the knob very far and your system will maintain adequate headroom to play the music espeacially with the dynamic range now found on CD's. The oppisite is true when using a smaller amp since you are now required to turn the volume up further to acheave the same volume level you increse second and third order harmonics and the smaller amp lacks the headroom to now manage the dynamic changes in music so the amp begins clipping and distortion is increased. Perhaps if you have a small enough amp you won't hurt the speakers similar to guitar amps where you have a 100w amp running a speaker bank capable of handling 600 watts. But that is a design to create and handle large amounts of clipping and distortion not exactly what I dream of listening to all day on every song. So just like not everyone can handle driving a blown big block not everyone can run big amps as for me give all the power you got I'll let off the gas if need be. So stay on the sidewalk and just play your IPOD cause when I wanna rock I like to feel the bass compress my chest. Thats all I got to say cause if the wife would let me I'd have it so loud the people on the pier in Grand Haven would be dancing to my tunes from Muskegon. Hmm if I put the wedges on the bow the amp rack in the cabin and a 10kw gen in the back wonder if Metalica at 131db would effect the fishing. Nope that would just be stupid but now I gotta dig out some of my old stereo gear and upgrade the boat tunes. Damn I should have ignored this subject now I am trying to figure out if I can mount a couple of my 15in subs on my boat. Ok I am just gonna stick to fishing which is why I came here to begin with.

    Tight Lines

  5. Just a thought is it a plastic gas can mine sat in garage for quite a while sealed with gas in it and swelled up now it holds nearly 6 gallons. Thought I was getting ripped off last year so measured the contents and had to remark the can cause it had grown I now check all my cans but espeacially the one I mix 2 stroke gas in.

  6. Had family up for a few days so took them out for evening boat ride. Boat ride was great sunset was beautiful. Fishing was poor brother in law lost first fish at back of boat it hit on a blue veggie 110 down off the rigger. We were in 210 FOW straight out and a little south. Trolled west to 250 FOW nothing else. Ran in to 200 and headed for the pier picked up a 4 lb king in about 160 FOW on a dypsey 200 back on 2, wonder bread flasher with Hypnotist fly. Pulled lines at 90ft and ran in at least weather was nice was 1 to 3 going out and flat coming in. Still not finding the fish and can't just burn up gas looking so just gonna keep to short rides pick a pattern and run it if it works great if not try again another day. Not killing them but no skunks yet in Muskegon

    Tight Lines

  7. Gotta love it when people quote theory. I guess I was wrong so my subs that are rated for 600 watts max only have a couple thousand hours on them with a 1200 watt bridged amp hooked to them and they have pretty much spent their entire life at concert volume levels how could this be. My low mid cabinets are rated for 150 w max and yet they have spent their entire life full blast with a 375 w amp driving them. Even my poor horns which are JBL 2425 drivers rated at 25w have spent a long life with a 100w amp driving them. So either Electrovoice JBL and Peavey have no idea how to properly rate their speakers or their is a flaw in that theory.

  8. If you get south of Craig there is a little village called Hydaburg my uncle lives there he said fishing is ok right now but not as many Salmon as he would like to see. My sonlives in Anchorage he had a good Halibut trip 3 days ago. He fished the river last 2 days and got skunked both days was just on the phone with him a hour ago. DNR has closed several rivers to fishing due to low numbers he said he hopes the Silver run is better. His buddy did however foul hook a 45lb King that made for a great fight before they released it. So even poor fishing up there is pretty darn good, have a great trip and send pics forthose of us who can't afford to go.

    Tight Lines

  9. May be a little late to chime in here but here are some thoughts. First speakers are rated by Impeadance not resistance. While most of Ohm's Law still applies in configureing them there are some subtle differances. Having spent most of my life as a sound engineer for dozens of small Rock, Country and Blues bands that many of you may have danced to over the years. THere is no such thing as too much power While yes you can actually melt voice coils I have done it the odds of overpowering a speaker are rare. What blows speakers is clipping and distortion both of which are caused by underpowering. As you turn up the volume most systems reach the saturation point about 1/2 volume or slightly above it. If that is not loud enough for you than you either need more effieciant speakers or more power. If you continue to turn the volume knob what you end up doing is pushing second and third order harmonics which lead to clipping and distortion followed by speaker failure. Most speakers are rated at 1 watt 1 meter SPL ratings and as a rule it takes dbl the power to get 3db more out of a speaker. So if your system runs at 100db at 100 watts you would need 200 more watts to get to 103db 400 more to get from there to 106db add 800 more to hit 109db 1600 more gets you to 112db ( which is a fairly average rock stage). THe nice thing we have now is most stereo displays allow us to listen to several differant speakers so set a stereo to a reasonable volume level and switch speakers till you find the best set you can afford. Get a amp that will double the max rating of the speaker without distortion and you will have a darn good setup. None of this will fix the compass but thats why I have 2 GPS units on board and if the tunes are cranking who cares if I'm lost.

    Tight Lines

    See ya at the docks

  10. Carlton get you a nice peice of OAK 2x6 or 2x8 and bolt it across the gimble mounts then you can mount the riggers on the Oak board. It will get rid of nearly all of the play in your Gunwalls and you can remove the entire setup when not using it.

    Tight Lines

  11. I primarily run Owner 2x strong hooks never had to sharpen one yet and they don't fail. I have a couple of friends that charter and they said the only hooks on thier boat are Owner's and yep they are not cheap about 30 bucks for 50 of them is best deal I have found. But I have reeled in mangled hooks that failed from other top name brands and with the price of gas I am not gonna lose fish cause I saved a few pennies on hooks or terminal tackle. I tie all of my own fly rigs with Gamma Flouro and Owner hooks and as soon as a new fly rig catchs a fish it gets re tied with one of my setups.

    Tight Lines

  12. Have not got my big boards wet in 2 years since I went to inlines. Did not even move the mast over to the new boat hope to sell it with old boat. Wanna buy a 6ft mast and 2 Riviera triple boards? The inlines rule as long as you keep the deepest line closest to the boat I run copper on closest than full core then half core on farthest out. Got several Coho last year and some Steelhead on the outside boards put the fish in the box and reset without messing up other lines.

    Tight Lines

  13. Thanks for the depth info I will probably stick with the stuff I allready use thanks to the last few issues of Precission Trolling I am fairly comfortable with my depth control. But I am allways interested in new presentations that probably explains all the differant lures and setups I allready have. I will see if the new Precission Trolling book covers Dive Bombs and may chk a couple out one of these days.

    Tight Lines

  14. Thanks guys she needs a good bath right now has lots of fish blood on the decks. I also love the room in back makes it nice to work out of. Looking forward to fishing with you guys this summer I am signed up for the Dreamweaver and the Fishing League events. Will try and get her cleaned up this weekend and see if I can get some pics while fishing.

    TIGHT LINES

  15. I have looked at the dive bombs but don't see any reason to use them I have been using snap weights for years with good success and they do the same thing basiclly. Get a copy of Precision Trolling has tons of trolling info on lures and various setups and give ajustments for differant line types and boat speeds. Most of the time I use the 50 50 setup 50ft from lure to weight and 50ft from weight to board but that is my Walleye setup. When fishing for spring Browns I use the snap weights about 30ft in front of the bait and let it out till I get bottom contact then reel in till it just bounces ocassionally seems to work pretty good.

    TIGHT LINES

  16. Lets see if I can figure this out here are some pics of my boat.

    DSC00743.JPG

    Ok That works now a little about her. She is a 1989 Four Winns 267 Quest 260 OMC Cobra I guess I should get some current pics with the riggers in place will add some later. Here is the business office.

    S1735005.jpg

    S1735006.jpg

    Since these were taken I have installed 2 Big Jon electric riggers on the rear they are older Senior models rebuilt as Speedriggers or Brute models not sure was told they were the same or similar to the current Brute model on swivel bases with 2 rod holders each. I have 2 Fishlander electrics with rod holders on swivel bases on the sides forward of the Big Jons and 2 fixed and 2 adjustable rod holders on each side. I have a Depth Raider set up on the Starboard rear rigger and a Lowrance GPS fishfinder. I am still waiting for RayMarine to deliver the autopilot system I ordered nearly 5 months ago last heard it will be here first part of July. If I had known they were going to drag their feet on delivering I would have either bought a differant boat or had the steering converted to Hyd prior to purchase. Have been out about a dozen times so far and caught 30 fish only skunked once unless you count getting towed back to the dock before ever setting a line a skunk ( lesson learned don't buy cheap fuel ). Fishing primarily out of Muskegon look forward to seeing you on the water or at the bait shop.

    Tight Lines

    Jim

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