1mainiac

Making plans for the upcoming season so I would love some input. What would you guys like to see and what changes would you want made? This is always going to a fun centered event with sponsors but there is no big money to win. I would like to keep entry to 25 dollars per boat but mostly I want people to fish share info and have fun. I am also thinking of only doing 3 or 4 this year most likely Memorial weekend 4th of July and Labor day possibly one in mid August.

sign up for the Silver Horde Open. There are lots of big fish out there and this will be our last event of the summer. 25 dollar entry  lets get together and pound some fish and have fun.

Sign up for the Big Papa Open which is this Sat Jun 17th

entry fee will be 25 bucks  20 for the tourney and 5 towards big fish.

May 6th tournament has been cancelled see you all on the 20th for the Silver Streak Open

If you are planning on fishing the first event next Sat please contact us and let us know. Since we have no sponsor there is a chance we will just cancel. I don't have contact info as all of our past records were thrown away. As of this moment I only know of 3 boats in for next weekend if that remains the case we will cancel the tourney and hope things improve for the Silverstreak tourney. So point blank we need to know if you guys even want to do this.

any cancellations or info will be posted here and on the mscst website the night before by 7:30pm also on the face book page  https://www.facebook.com/MSCST-155723504479308/?ref=bookmarks

rules and sign up sheets are on website http://www.mscst.com/

May 6th The Blood Run Tackle Open
May 20th The Silver Streak Open
June 17th The Big Papa Sports Open
July 1st The Fish Hawk Open
July 29th The Big Weenie Contest
Aug 26th The Silver Horde Open
Sep 9th The MSA Open

I have not heard from all sponsors so some names might change but dates are set

185 views not one response

Well we are about to get setup for the 2017 season some things have changed. The biggest change is Don and Patty have stepped down and I will be running it this year with help from Jon Baker and others. I am perfectly happy to run under the same rules as we have but I am also open to ideas. I have a few that I may bring up for discussion as we go along. Some things I am open to is dropping the fish at weigh in down to make it more competitive. I have a lot of ideas but want input from everyone as to what you guys want and how to get more people to fish with us.

Dates are set no rule changes from last year.

May 7th The Blood Run Tackle Open
May 28th The Silver Streak Open
June 25th The Big Papa Sports Open
July 16th The Fish Hawk Open
July 30th The Big Weenie Contest
Aug 20th The Silver Horde Open
Sep 3rd The MSA Open
The following day will be the Blow date for all events weather permitting. If not the following event will be fished as a 2 day if possible.

I think the ring post is one of mine I use 1in split rings to extend the front arm length on several of my boards to increase the angle and change the front anchor point. Greg at BloodRun and I exchanged planer board ideas last spring and his mods are his mixture of what we came up with. In that we share several common ideas yet his and mine are still different maybe next spring we will do it again and see which setup works better. The real point for me is the eyeball test if your boards are running true in the water you need no mods. Many will tell you they have used this or that for years and there is no need for what we are doing the fact is however I have yet to find a board that runs correct out of the package. There is no one size fits all board which is why there are so many options out there. I have over 20 boards on my boat each has a purpose some are not friendly with others so I have to plan my spread or I can make a mess. Example I can run up to a 300 copper on any of my boards so if I am running a mostly Steelhead spread out deep I can put a 300 on anything but if I am running a deep spread then I need my higher lines to be in a different location which means a different board.

Salmon are not Great Lakes fish never have been never will be they were planted to wipe out the Alewife. Now they need to be maintained to keep Alewife in check. That said the Lake Trout planted by the Federal Government is also not a natural fish so that is also a dumb idea since they cannot reproduce in our waters. I have not seen or caught a Lake MI lake trout in well over 40 years. The fact is nearly everything we fish for on the Great Lakes is imported Perch Walleye and Sturgeon are about all that is left of Lake MI fish other than Whitefish which are seldom caught trolling. We have almost no rivers that Salmon can spawn in on a regular basis which is why we have poor returns on natural fish. Now and then we have some river stretches that spawn well but they are the exception not the rule. Salmon were brought here in the late 1800's and failed badly due to nothing to eat and no place to breed. The Alewife explosion of the 50's and 60's wiped out our Perch and Walleye fishing and our Lake Trout as well because when the Trout ate them it made them sterile. So our trout died off and we had beaches covered in stinking Alewife. So once again we brought back Salmon and even though they still could not breed with much success they would however eat Alewives and get big and fat. And a sportfishing industry was born now we want to save the very fish the salmon were brought in to remove. The only way to keep this going is remove as many Salmon as we can less Salmon means more Alewives and bigger fish. The faster we yank them out the more they will have to plant. Who knows maybe someday we will have a better Walleye and Perch fishery back here like the other side of the state.

I have 8 of them ok for lead core never tried them on a diver setup.

It could you also have a 12v non resister wire coming from the starter that gives full voltage when starting. I have seen them stay hot all the time if the starter solenoid goes bad or has been under water in the bilge. If the voltage at the points is too high the coil will get extremely hot and begin to break down. The last time my boat failed the coil was so hot you could cook with it. we actually pulled the coil and laid it on a bag of ice on top of the motor and was able to run in with it.

Check voltage at the coil on the points side should be under 10vdc at idle some will only run about 6v at idle. As you increase rpm the voltage should rise slightly but you should never have full voltage at the points. So every 12v points system either uses a resister coil or a ballast resister to trim voltage to the points. Some boats came with a resister coil and the coil got swapped for a non resister one by mistake. Mine came with a resister coil but the ballast resister was bypassed so we had to have a ballast resister added to fix the issue. Hall's in Muskegon was never able to figure this out and the result is I have hundreds of dollars in new parts I likely never needed because they could not see the problem.

Where do you fish out of? I answered your other post as well. Put a volt meter on the coil check the voltage drop across the coil and the voltage to the points. My bet is it runs great when cold and trolls fine just will not run fast after getting warm.

I had a similar problem for several years spent hundreds of dollars and had several Muskegon shops attempt to fix it. In the end the problem was the ballast resistor had been removed and voltage was too high at the coil. High coil voltage causes the coil to get hot and break down. Runs great when cold trolls fine but will not run in when hot often sputtered and acted like it was out of gas. Most coils will say right on the side if they need a resistor or not but a simple way to tell is check the voltage going to the points when running. At idle you should see between 6 and 10 volts to the points As it warms up at idle the voltage will drop slightly when you rev it up the voltage will increase slightly.

Go deep 170 to 200ft north of the second nets NW troll Steel in top 30ft Salmon 70 down to the bottom most of ours were between 70 and 110 down.

And another year comes to a end 1st and 2nd were pretty much a lock after last week the battle was in 3rd place. Which was taken by team Fishsniffer however only 6 points separated 3rd 4th and a 2 boat tie for 5th.

updated results

First off there is no buy this and run it unless you match your setup to what the board wants to do. So you will find if you want to pull a lot of different setups you will need a lot of different boards. My boat has Z Boards, Ziggy boards, Off Shore yellow boards and Church TX44 boards on it. I chose the board based on what I am running for light setups I run the Off Shore boards which I have made a few mods to. Deep setups require big boards so for 300 and longer copper I use my TX44 boards. Generally most of my setups will run on my Z Boards. I am not going to tell you what to buy but I can tell you how to improve nearly any of them. Z Boards, Yellow Bird and Ziggy boards are easy to run and tune but do not let you move the weight so you have to match the board size to the setup. Running too much board only means more trouble getting them in and fighting the board can cost you fish.

I have 20 boards on my boat and several different setups on them. I do not run any of the Church Walleye boards I had some several years ago and sold them in a yard sale. I know many will tell you what a great job they do for them but to be honest I doubt any of them have ever seen what can be done with a better board setup. The Church Walleye board is designed for walleye fishing which is slow speeds and shallow diving setups generally working the top 25ft of water. My fall Steelhead spread can be 800ft wide with boards 400ft out on each side. You can't get enough line on a reel to get a stock Walleye board that wide. I have modded nearly every common board out there my personal fav is still the Z Boards which are no longer available. Like I said in my other post is is a simple geometry problem the board wants to run straight thru the water it also needs to be vertical and level so it can work. Once you have the board running correctly the only improvement is to increase the angle from the front release to the rear. This is done by lengthening the front arm so the line angle thru the releases is greater and this forces the board to run wider because the board wants to run straight so it must get wider to setup.

Here is a shot of a couple of my TX 44 boards after the mods running about 3.5mph inside is pulling a 450 copper outside is a 300 copper.

Sorry for the late post but Don and I have been hoping for a better report for tomorrows tourney. The fact is that is not going to come we have had a rule for years we would not fish under small craft warnings or any predicted waves beyond 3 to 5 ft. As such we are forced to cancel tomorrows event and move it to next Sunday.

The Blood Run mods are mine and Greg's combined work I showed him several of my modded boards and he blended the changes with some of his own. The difference in how they run is amazing. There are 3 angles involved in making a board run correctly.

1st the board angle is set by the angle from the front release to the rear release subtract this angle from 90 and it will give you a idea of how the board will track. Most stock boards have a angle of around 15 to 20 deg this means the board will run back at a 70 to 75 deg angle off the boat. Making the front release arm longer increases this angle and makes the board run wider.

2nd the board needs to run vertical in the water this is adjusted by raising or lowering the front release. If the release is too high the board will lean in and skip to low and it will lean out and dig and dive.

3rd angle is getting the board to sit level in the water this is adjusted by moving the weight too much front weight the board dives too much rear and the nose is up and it won't track correctly.