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tbromund

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Posts posted by tbromund

  1. Pinnacle's Dazzle DVD recorder.

    http://www.pinnaclesys.com/PublicSite/us/Products/Consumer+Products/Dazzle/Dazzle+Video+Archiving/Dazzle+DVD+Recorder+Plus.htm

    50 bucks, it plugs into a USB port on your computer and attached to the VCR with red, yellow, white AV Cables

    I've had one for several years and have transferred quite a few VHS tapes to DVD with it.

    Of course, you need a DVD burner on your computer, but if you don't already have one, they are like 20 bucks at Tiger Direct.

    Tim

  2. We get quite a few steelies on flashers and flies every year and on all presentations, riggers, divers, core/copper. Green stuff and mirage's always seem to work good, but they are incidental catches while targeting kings.

    When we are actually targeting steelhead, it's usually strictly a spoon program and trolling fast. may have to put a F/F down this year when chasing steel as the ones we get on those rigs are usually big fish.

    Tim

  3. Don't think the new Scottys are available to the general public just yet. I've had the old style Scottys on my boat since 2003 (replaced some ancient Cannon Mag 10A's) and couldn't be happier with them. I thought about upgrading this year to the new ones, but don't think the extra money will be there. Maybe next year.

    Tim

  4. The AP14R was never rated for a 30ft boat with twin outdrives. SI-Tex offers a AP with the Octopus drive which is the unit Simrad used for the AP12 and AP14R units but it is still not rated for that much boat.

    OK gotcha, didn't realize we were talking about that big a boat. I guess I'm a little surprised a boat that size is cable steered.

    Tim

  5. OK Here's the VERDICT..... "Once again KING JIm "Mainiac" Is right... the boat has to be converted to Hydraulic steering because no one makes a AP that will handle "cable steering with Power assist"... Raymarine want to have Barrretts install a new Hydraulic steering system before they will sell me the AP unit..

    I am getting quotes to have steering converted to Hydraulic and will let ou all know what I hear but i know it's all going to cost about 6K...and it's still worth it to help the wife out, because she's worth it..... Ok am I making you Ill yet..????

    Simrad USED to. My AP14R is hooked up to the cable steered, power assisted 5.0 L Mercruiser Alpha 1 in my Thompson and it works Awesome. Dang shame Navico in their infinite wisdom decided to discontinue it.

  6. I've been using the bright, 30 lb Malin for years. It is softer wire than Mason and I find it much easier to work with. This past season I finally re-spooled my wire diver reels with new Malin. The old wire was 6 or 7 years old and had no issues, they were just starting to get a tad short from periodic preventive cutback and reties.

    Tim

  7. try the scottys, you can absolutely load the crap out of them and never get a false release, they are easier to set than the blacks style and you never have to worry about dragging around skips, you see them telegraphed to the rid tip, every time.

    typical loaded scotty release

    P5300002.jpg

    Tim

  8. Ok, Every time this question comes up, blacks are highly touted, I just don't understand it. I've used them on other boats and I currently have a chamberlain on my probe rigger on mine and I can honestly state that I DO NOT find them at all easy to use compared to my vastly preferred scotty pinch pads.

    What exactly is it about those releases that everybody loves so much? I don't like them at all and the first thing I'll be doing in the spring is taking that chamberlain off my probe rigger and figuring out some way to use a Scotty that won't damage to coated cable.

    sorry to hijack the thread, but I am truly curious, because I just don't see it.

    Tim

  9. I hate the blacks style releases myself. I use the Scotty pinch pad style releases (Powergrips?) you can load the crap out of your rods and get ZERO false releases, yet with the long tethers, if a fish or shaker even sniffs the lure, it is clearly telegraphed to the rod. never drag a shaker, EVER.

    Tim

  10. yes, the trouble light under the doghouse works as long as it doesn't get too cold, the incandescent light bulb in the confined area generates enough heat that the block won't freeze.

    If it gets below the mid 20's I'd start to worry about the effectiveness of this solution at that point.

    Tim

  11. I used to have old Cannon Mag 10A's on the boat, in 2003 I put two Scotty 1116's on the corners and moved the cannons up the gunwales as out downs. After two year of the cannons being in the way and not using them I took them off the boat and stuck them in the basement until I eventually sold em.

    The old Cannons were were fine, but very slow. The Scotty's were superior in every aspect. My only complaint was the rod holders. I have since replaced 1 holder on each rigger with the adjustable holders that come on the 1117's and that completely got rid of my only complaint. Couldn't be happier with them, 7 seasons so far without a single issue on either of them. From what I've heard, the repair centers will tell you they never (or very seldom ever) see Scotty's come in for service, they just keep working.

    Tim

  12. The antennae is probably more important than the radio. Here is the best "bang for the buck" in radio antennae in my opinion. I use it and have installed it on a couple of my friends' boats. We have all been very happy with it.

    http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=16014&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=10103&subdeptNum=10278&classNum=10279

    that one is good. this one is a bit more expensive, but IMO the Shakespeare Galaxy 5225 XT is the best antenna on the market. You're better off with the Galaxy series than the Mariners.

    http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=16008&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=10103&subdeptNum=10278&classNum=10279

    Tim

  13. Fished out of Olcott today. First off, inside fishing still sucks. We fished inside from 0630-0930 without moving a rod. We tried doctors/flies, opti inticers/flies, R&R 8" assassins/flies, lymans, j plugs and familiar bite whole alewifes.

    0930 we pulled rods and ran out to the 29.5 and 50 lines and trolled north. Lines in the water at 10:00, first steelhead in the boat at 10:10. Dad just got back into town and wanted some fish to smoke so we were fishing for the box. by 12:10 we had 5 nice steel and a lost brown trout about 8 lbs in the box and called it a day.

    Could have stayed out there and continued to put a walloping on em, but I wasn't interested in leaving a trail of floaters behind the boat so we pulled and ran in. No idea what the brownie was dong 11 miles offshore in 470 fow and hitting a spoon trolled at 3.2 at the ball, but we weren't complaining.

    Fished the 29.5 to the 32.5 lines. Ended up 8/10 in the two hours we were out there including a 5 lb king (released, clipped fish) the 5 steel and 1brown in the box and a small steel that was also released. had a hit and run on the wire diver and a slider fish come unbuttoned to complete the action. Fast troll was best, 3+ at the ball to get them to hit. 7 of the 10 bites came on 1 spoon, the laser spooked NK blue thunder that has been my best steelhead spoon for the past 4 seasons. Highly recommend taping one up, every time I put it down, it just fires all day long.

    PC010001.jpg

    R&R Union Spoon took one fish on the 45' rigger and a Ludington stinger took the small king on a free slider on the 40' rigger. Everything else came on the spoon above on the 50' rigger. hit and run on the wire diver back 180 on a 3 was on an R&R mag watermelon grape dot.

    Nice average size with 3 of the 5 steel between 8 and 11 lbs.

    Tim

  14. the klincher is the way to go, makes the probe removable. I would NEVER EVER EVER trust crimps with an expensive probe on the end of the cable.

    you need to drill out the rivet and replace the snap swivel with one more heave duty use a #10 3/4" stainless steel machine screw, a couple stainless washers and a nylock nut.

    When you install the klincher on the cable, leave yourself about a 4" tag end of cable out the top of the klincher, strip about a 1/4" of the coating off the cable and install a ring terminal.

    inastall the machine screw with a washer on the head side, through the klincher body and the swivel eye, install the other washer the ring terminal attached to the wire and then install the nylock nut. This keeps a metal to metal contact throughout the system to transmit the signal from the probe to the coated cable.

    Here is a pic of it all together. I redo this at the start of the season and once mid season and the cable coating gets a little chewed up.

    4271765e56ac18f6.jpg

    Tim

  15. If you can find a Simrad AP12 of AP14 in stock somewhere, those AP's are awesome. I had an old sportpilot+ prior to getting my AP14 and the Simrad is 10X the unit the older Raymarine was. Never tried the new Ray unit.

    Before you spend thousands of dollars converting to Hyd steering, I'd try and find a Simrad in stock somewhere. It's really a shame Navico decided to scrap the rotary AP's from the Simrad Line. I guess there's more money in forcing you to convert to Hyd.

    Keep in mind that you will need a minimum of 10" of clearance behind the helm for the simrad unit to clear as it replaces the existing helm unit/steering assembly entirely and the drive motor is behind the dash.

    Tim

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