SeaCatMich

I wouldn't think that a right arm issue should be that big of a problem. All the right hand/arm does is crank the reel... unless you have "left" hand reels. The left arm is the one that gets the work out pumping the rod.

I have often thought that us right handed people should be using our stronger right arms on the rod and the left on the reel -- just like I do with a spinning outfit. Never have understood why "normal" conventional reels are setup the way they are. Recently I noticed that Okuma has started making a lot of their reels (including the line counters) in "left" handed models.

I use Thundersticks and Deep Jr. Thundersticks and Rebel Fasttracks (for faster trolling speeds) when fishing offshore for Steelhead. I run them off inline boards as flat lines and 2/3/5 color leadcores. They often work well around scum lines and catch salmon too.

I have had a couple different brands of electric trailer winches over the years and they have all had a lever to push to disengage the spool and allow line/strap to be pulled off. I also use the long cord to the power switch to remotely engage the motor to pull the boat on the trailer, but if I move the switch the other direction (toward the front of the trailer) it will unspool line/strap too.

My normal procedure is to back the trailer in to the ramp but stop short so I can still walk up to the winch and disengage the clutch to spool out enough line/strap to get to the bow of the boat when the boat is pulled as far forward on the trailer as I can. Then I back the trailer in farther to submerge the bunks/rollers and I hook up the line/strap and pull it onto the trailer.

You must be thinking of New Buffalo. New Baltimore is on Lake St Claire. I get the two mixed up also. The New B words.

YUP, brain fart on this end. Read one thing, though and typed another. Duh.

Just saw these on CraigsList: http://holland.craigslist.org/bpo/4970171056.html

Look at these: http://www.madsdocks.com/shop/Item/pmpoletree They are not as nice as the Big Jon's but are fixed angle like the Bert's and you can't beat the price. When they first started making them, the Madd's welds were not real good but have improved in the last couple of years.

Cannon's dual axis rod holders are nice. I had them before I went to the Traxstech last year. The Cannons are easier to set with a rod in them due to the pistol grip release, but the smoothness of the Traxstech ratchet and the number of positions you can raise/lower them to is just fantastic.

Catch-A-Bunch charters in Grand Haven is sponsored by Cannon and sold me my original Cannon rod holders about 3-4 years ago when he got new from them.

Shorts with snow boots... NICE! A great mixed bag of good fish with the family... GREAT JOB!

Nice snag Ryan! Need to be online more.

Sometimes you just plain get lucky!

I already have 6 on the boat and was going to buy more... half price for year old ones works

Russell, I'll buy them. Email sent.

Where are you located

He list his location as New Baltimore, MI in his profile -- SW Michigan just north of the Indiana border.

Thanks for posting Russel. You now have a few less to sell... plus a few Ace High plugs. Pushed me over the edge from procrastinating over the winter. Was hoping to get stuff at the GR show but couldn't make it... the diver price makes it better anyway :-)

Although smaller the 17 size retrieves 24.8" per handle turn compared to 24.4 on the 27. Spooled with braid the 17 should be a good reel for planer board walleye trolling.

Have a big backyard? Just lay it out, measure, and reel it back in.

Although I have line counter reels I use the backyard method to measure out the copper off of a bulk spool to make sure that I really know how much is on the reel(s).

If I'm using pre measured lengths then I don't do this but since I wanted different lengths not offered by the manufactures, I decided to go with the bulk spool and get the 200' 250'... lengths that I wanted... plus it is a lot cheaper!

Braid to spool: ~40 feet of Mono as Capt. Matt stated

Braid to copper: Splice in a section of mono. I like to use the 80# Sampo ball bearing barrel swivels with a haywire twist and shrinkwrap for the copper and fisherman's knot for the mono.

Braid to leadcore: Splice in a section of mono, uni-to-uni for both connections

Braid to mono: Uni-to-uni knot

Same for me too but I don't do the mono.

A CMC PT-35 might do what you want if combined with a small stand off bracket to allow for space to tilt. They are rated for up to 35 hp outboards.

CMC: http://www.cmcmarineproducts.com/products/Outboard-Tilt-and-Trim/CMC-Tilt-and-Trim/CMC-PT-35-Tilt-and-Trim-for-up-to-35-HP

Also check out this place (http://www.getaprop.com/content-product_info/product_id-10736/bob_s_mini_kicker_hydraulic_jack_plate.html). In addition to this one, scroll down for links to other brackets -- manual and power -- that might do what you need.

I lay mine in the boat with the butts/reels toward the bow and the tips on my rear jump seats. When I get to the launch I then put them up in the rod holders. Never an issue in 20+ years of doing it this way in 3 different boats.

I am considering some of the rod sheaths to minimize the lines getting tangled but they are not necessary.

What size OB and what type of steering?

Looks a whole lot better than last year!

Russell, are you coming to the Grand Rapids show this spring and bringing these with you?

The power cord you need is the Raymarine/Raytheon W144. It is the same as what is used with the Pathfinder series units (L755, L760, L770, RL70, RL70C, RL80... and others). Most of the time they sell for $50-70 online.

Back when it first came out it was a great unit, but given its age I'm not sure I'd invest that much to find out if it works unless you really want to use it. Good news is that if it doesn't fix it, you should be able to resell it on eBay pretty quickly.

Not positive but I think it was the stiff.

I don't have one but a good friend does and really likes it. I did use it to clean some salmon when we were fishing this past summer and it worked well. I liked the handle better than a Forshner cimiter I have. The blade made short work of going through the rib bones when taking the filet off. Cleaned half dozen low to mid teen Kings and Steelies and cut as well on the last as the first.

The guts at install launch are bagged then thrown in a dumpster.

And it can really stink on hot summer days

Tackle Haven in Benton Harbor has a fish cleaning station.