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reel alpha

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Posts posted by reel alpha

  1. It could you also have a 12v non resister wire coming from the starter that gives full voltage when starting. I have seen them stay hot all the time if the starter solenoid goes bad or has been under water in the bilge. If the voltage at the points is too high the coil will get extremely hot and begin to break down. The last time my boat failed the coil was so hot you could cook with it. we actually pulled the coil and laid it on a bag of ice on top of the motor and was able to run in with it.

    Wow, interesting. I guess ill.install a resistor and hope.for the best. Thx

  2. Check voltage at the coil on the points side should be under 10vdc at idle some will only run about 6v at idle. As you increase rpm the voltage should rise slightly but you should never have full voltage at the points. So every 12v points system either uses a resister coil or a ballast resister to trim voltage to the points. Some boats came with a resister coil and the coil got swapped for a non resister one by mistake. Mine came with a resister coil but the ballast resister was bypassed so we had to have a ballast resister added to fix the issue. Hall's in Muskegon was never able to figure this out and the result is I have hundreds of dollars in new parts I likely never needed because they could not see the problem.

    Would this happen all of the sudden? Boat ran fine first 2 years I've had it? No resistors on either engine. Port runs fine, starboard has the issues

  3. I'm having the same problem. No anti siphon valve near my gas tank though. Have changed fuel filter/water separator's 3 times. Changed coil. Changed cap, contacts, confenser, plugs, wires. Switched carbs between both engines. Same engine still gives me ****. Under power no problem until 3000 rpm then fouls out unless I can throw it into neutral. If/when I get mine figured out, I'll post the resolution.e

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