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King Slammin'

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Posts posted by King Slammin'

  1. To me the lake is the closest thing to Heaven on earth, and it's very hard to leave once I'm there, usually solo.

    I have fished from sunup to sundown a few times and only missed the months of December and January for productive trips to the lake.

    A "normal" outing with a freind or relative would be from 5 a.m. till 11:30 to try and beat the noon rush at the launch.

  2. Steve, I was finally able to purchase an X-4 in my third year of salmon fishing and as stated above, it was THE single most productive investment for dialing in a program and catching fish...besides the boat of course. You will not be sorry,period! [and just between you and I, it's kinda like cheatin'!]

  3. John, I'm thinking you need to speed the boat up a little while deploying the copper to keep it higher in the water. At slower speeds it will sink fast, and if you free spool it to let the board drop back, I'm thinking it's sinking past it's running depth and catching your diver line as it passes over it once you put tension to the board to get it to the side. If you feel boat speed is o.k. then try deploying the copper with a little more tension on it to keep it higher in the water. Even after you clip the board on, don't let it free spool to let it drop back. You should be able to start it out to the side as soon as you put the board in the water, or soon there after, without getting into the diver.

    Hope this helps, Dave.

  4. picture.php?albumid=290&pictureid=648

    picture.php?albumid=290&pictureid=649

    picture.php?albumid=290&pictureid=650

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    My Quick Release idea for board storage to avoid damage to the release arm. On and off in 2 seconds! When you cut into the screw holes with sidecutters, make the resulting opening @ the holes slightly smaller than the screw diameter and this will allow the arm to "snap" into place. Add a screw on the end to keep the arm with the board when stored. If you cut the slots too big, you can go to the next larger screw size. This has worked for a couple seasons for me without losing a board. Periodic screw adjustments might be needed after many times on and off.

  5. Left the harbor @ 3:30 on a 280* heading. Had some info from a charter friend of no significant temp break until 160fow so after running out on flat calm water, thats where I set up shop. Didn't mark alot of fish, but stayed busy cleaning the lake of mylar balloons, some type of medical bag, and various types of plastic.:mad: Couldn't get anything going until sunset, when I hit a double, coho. First was on a 180 copper/white and blue spin dr./blue Mikes Eyefly. Next was on a rigger down 44', SWR/monkey shine spoon. Put those rods away, now it's dark, and when I popped the other rigger rod set at 88', a small king nailed the free slider, a ss blue dolphin. All 3 fish caught high in 72* water and all about 6-7lbs. Made the long cruise back in a downpour. After the 40 mile drive back to the shop, I pulled in and noticed a hot burning smell and 1 side of my single axle trailer smoking.:eek: Grabbed the hose and cooled it down so I wouldn't damage my new tire. Jacked it up to remove the wheel and the whole hub fell off! Lost a wheel bearing. I feel blessed to make it back without losing that wheel. Could be worse I guess.

  6. I am so hooked on copper that I have 8 rigs ready to go, starting with a 90' and in 30' increments, up to 300'. Then a 450. Alot of times with 2 of us fishing, I will start with a 90,120 and 150 on the port side and 180,210 and 240 starboard.

    Keeping about a 15'-20' spread between lines. IMO this makes for an efficient and effective spread for searching out the active feeders. If the mid-depth lines are getting all the hits, I will add dive bombs to the shorter coppers to reach the same depth. Then as the sun rises and the fish move deeper, the shallow rigs get swapped for the 270, 300 and 450. Also, the 30' increments are easier for me to remember the running depths of each. The 450 gets a TX-44. My walleye boards are tuned and marked for each length of copper for optimum performance and arranged in the boat to be deployed in the correct order. Anything to help setting up in the dark easier!

    To this I will add a large reflective chrome dodger by itself off the probe rigger ball about 1/2 way down in the zones I am covering to call the fish into the spread and then pick them off as the coppers come by.

    Hope this helps someone, or at least give them something new to try.

    Dave.

  7. I have also made mine from 1/8" rod. Believe it or not, it takes me about 2 minutes start to finish including the 90* bend that is the same every time.

    I also make them for the TX-44's, they are a little longer.

    I don't get out enough to have the line cut into the stock pins, but I was tired of breaking the tops off:mad: replacing wasn't a hard job as long as I was not being tossed around in rough seas trying to keep track of that little retaining clip! With the metal pins that is no longer an issue at all because they just don't break.

    If anyone is intrested, shoot me a p.m. I will only charge for the cost of the rod and actual shipping, usually about $1.50.

    A pic of my pins is in the gallery.

    I also have a great tip for board storage you will like! I'll get that on here in a few days after I get some pic's.

    Dave.

  8. Hi guys. I joined this site a few days ago and I must say I am impressed!

    Seems like a real "team" here unlike the other Great Lakes site where everyone is so quick to criticize instead of offering advise. Got old quick!

    I started salmon fishing in 2009 out of Michigan City,In. and have since trailered my Polar Kraft 178TC out of New Buffalo,Mi.

    So even with a few years under my belt on the big lake, I'm still thirsting for more knowledge and tricks of the trade. In the few days since joining, I feel like I've learned more from this site than I ever have from the other.:thumb:

    I'm a laid back kinda guy and won't waste your time with "un-informed" advise or repeated questions. I'm hear to learn.

    Dave.

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