Bad Dog

Jay Wesley will give a Lake Michigan salmon report.

The Detroit Area Steelheaders meet at 7:30 PM, the last Tuesday of each month at the American Polish Cultural Center. Our featured speaker this Tuesday, June 27th is Jay Wesley, Lake Michigan Basin Coordinator for the Fisheries Division of the MDNR. Jay will speak on the state of the Lake Michigan salmon fishery, discuss salmon stocking strategies, and the food chain outlook. He is not one to shy away from engaging sportsmen with concerns about the future of the sport fishery. This presentation will be a highlight in our 2017 line up. Be sure to extend an invite to friends interested in salmon fishing. 

Meetings are free and open to the public.  The hall is located on the northwest corner of Maple and Dequindre roads.

15 hours ago, Steelhead#1 said:

Starting last year I have recorded every trip with my fish finder. The problem is that you could interpret the data any way you like.......Unless they've been recording the fish finder for several years. A simple picture of your fish finder isn't going to tell you anything.

 

They currently gather trawl data from the same areas each year.  I think they intend to trawl areas which appear promising based on reports provided by fishermen.    

On January 6, 2016 at 7:45 PM, Divemaster said:

So if I'm running the dipsy diver with a base plate setting of 3, would that increase my chances of tangling with my planer board line! Also, how much line do you all tend to let out for inline planers after attaching them to the line? I don't want to have them so close that they'll snag my diver lines but I also don't want other boats to be running them over if everyone is on a school of fish.....

4) Moving on to Planers, what are some of the better rods and reels for fishing with inline planer boards? For this application, it seems like you want pretty heavy duty rods and reels to handle the pull of the board without taking away a lot of the fight from the fish.

5) When it comes to line for inline planer rods, would leadcore or copper be better for getting lures deep enough for Salmonids? I've never used either and it seems like leadcore is more forgiving and cheaper but doesn't get quite as deep while copper kinks a lot and is more expensive while sinking the lures pretty deep......

More rods equals more tangles.  Some guys have a better 3D vision of where each lure runs in relation to the others.  I imagine a dive master just pokes his head down below for a peek (sorry I couldn't help myself).  Knowing where everything is will help avoid tangles, and you will know what to do when lines do eventually get crossed.  It's gonna happen.  It may be your fault, or it may be a fish on a run.  

Tangles with planers usually occur when a dispey releases and raises into the lead core.  If you are only running one dispey, you can set the base plate on 2 to keep it closer to the boat.  Lots of backing on the planer rod is important and helps keep boards away from the boat.  How much lead core and how much backing are you putting on the Convectors?  If you haven't spooled up your board rods yet, get bright colored backing.  For short cores and big reels 30# mono backing is good.  If you want to get as much lead core as possible on the 45 Convectors, use braid backing.

As you've discovered, getting rigged for salmon is an expensive proposition. Like jmohunts mentioned, there are some deals on good used equipment out there.  

I didn't see anything about your boat and it's layout.  What is it, and how many rods will you run?  How about the inline boards, do you have them yet?  

On January 6, 2016 at 7:45 PM, Divemaster said:

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1) What are some of the better rods and reels for fishing with Dipsy Divers? As far as reels go, I've been looking at Okuma Convectors and Magda Pros but I'm sure there's ton out there. I've been pretty stumped looking at rods, though. The Daiwa Heartlands looks good, but the low price concerns me regarding quality.

2) Is there any certain color of dipsy diver that works particularly well for the above mentioned fish (again: Lakers, Steelies, and Browns)? From what I've been reading, diver color isn't that important with Salmonids but I just want to make sure not to spook any away with flashy colors and if possible it'd be nice to attract some in.

3) With Dipsy Divers, is there a certain brand of snubber that works better than others? I looked at the Luhr Jensen regular green/yellow ones and they seem fine but they look so stretchy that it seems like a big Laker would snap them like a rubber band. Also, after the snubber is there a certain pound test line that works best? I assume it'd be Fluorocarbon too, right?............

There are lots of ways to rig dipsies.  The following works for me and should help shorten your learning curve.  Starting out, I recommend getting setup with braid divers for this year.  A Heartland Dipsey rod with ceramic guides is sufficient and won't break the bank.  Don't get talked into a wire rod for your first dipsey set-up. A wire set-up is not as forgiving, and costs at least twice as much. Rod length is in part personal preference but also influenced by your boat and how you have it rigged.  Judging from your enthusiasim you will eventualy be running mulitple dipsies per side.  A nine or ten foot dipsey rod is a good length to start. When you move up to two dipsies a side, this set-up will make a good high diver.  The high diver is going to be your longest dipsey rod.  If you think you might eventually run three dipsies a side, get ten foot rods now.  

You need smooth drags on your dipsies. If you like Okuma reels get the Convector or Clarion line counters in at least a 45 size. The Magda may not hold up.

Dipsey size is more important than the color.  If you run Luhr Jenson's, the #1 size with a large ring, on the 3 setting, will run down 1' for every 3' of line out.   When you find a size you like, stick with it so you learn how deep it runs.  The braid setup I've suggested can reach 100' depth.

I like clear rubber snubbers in front of mono or floro leaders.  If I'm running a spoon or plug, I'll use 17# - 20# florocarbon leader.  If I'm running a flasher, I'll run 25# - 30# mono leader.

Makes sense. Just to be clear.. Main line to swivel, to bead chain, 2-3 feet leader, to swivel to paddle?

You shouldn't need a leader in front of the paddle. If you want to fasten a bead chain put a snap on it.

Regarding break-offs....

I know some guys like lighter test lines on down riggers. l use 20 pound for spoons and prefer heavier for pulling attractors. I don't like loosing big fish and expensive tackle. 20 pound test should be okay if there are no other issues.

Check for nicks regularly. Cut off bad line and re-tie if necessary.

Inspect your guides for cracks. Use a Q-tip to find small cracks difficult to see with the naked eye. If you think it's due to line twist. Try a better quality snap swivel. Check the barrel swivel on the front of the paddle.

I have a question regarding a 12" paddle is it supposed to sway back and forth in the water or spin?

Boomer,

I'm gonna watch next time I send one down. I think they sway at slower speeds and do a big roll if pulled faster.

Guys, why am I breaking paddles off this year at my release on a rigger? It has happened 2-3 times. I don't think I'm doing anything different than I usually do. I don't understand.

The rod releases and the paddles gone. I've also popped the release intentionally, only to have the paddle break off.

Using Blacks release.

Is your main line breaking? If so, what pound test are you running?

Damn. I've been seeing/reading 1-2 per second......no wonder I can't catch anything on whole bait!!!!!!

I don't think it's your roll, something else is going on here.

Get 45# super copper. The 'super' copper is tinned (silver). It is less likely to birds nest because it comes off the reel smoother than regular copper. 45# is the most popular weight.

For a reel, think about stepping up to the Okuma Clarion. The finish is a little nicer than the Convector.....but the big advantage over the Convector, is it's 6:1 take up factor.

If you can spring for two set-ups, get a 300' and a 200'. I run run 30# or 50# braid for backing. If you get the 55 size reel, you can save some coin on backing by using a hi-vis 30# mono.

First thing I'd do is sharpen your hooks.

Get yourself a copy of 'Chapman Piloting and Seamship'. Learn everything in the the book. It's the stuff you need to know for operating a vessel safely, and you'll also need to know it for the captains test.

PM sent

He ran meat exclusively, well, until he made spoons..........

Now he sells spoons.......

I don't fault guys for introducing new items but, I try to limit my purchases to two categories. Stuff that catches a lot of fish, or stuff that catches big fish. When it comes to fishing tackle I already own to much stuff.

That being said I did win some of Big Weenies new spoons and will be giving them a try next time I'm in Manistee.

Thanks BW,

I'll be giving them a try.

Hey Big Weenie,

What's up with the 8" Weiners? What are they intended to target, and how do you recommend rigging them up?

I saw two barrels full of Ugly Sticks at Franks this week. You might want to call first. I was looking at the 7 footers. I think the second barrel might have been 7 1/2 footers.

Check out the Moor Sub-Troll Klincher Kit (part # 88-088-032) for a clean way to connect. You can modify a Klincher like the above post but the kit from Moor is simple and works well.

registration

My wife's priority is vacations. Mine is salmon fishing. Next year I want to cross Lake Michigan from Manistee to fish the Wisconsin shore for a week or so. Several years ago we visited and fished the ports between Washington Island and Sturgeon Bay. Next year I'd like to hit several ports south of Sturgeon Bay. We did't get to Algoma the last Wisconsin trip, so that will be somewhere on the itinerary. I'd appreciate any input on fishing and attractions at ports near Algoma. We won't have a vehicle so recommendations on marinas within walking distance of town are helpful. I travel with my wife and two dogs in a 30' Pursuit. We usually travel over the 4th of July, or the week after Labor Day, so making some arrangements in advance is helpful.