killerbe20
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Posts posted by killerbe20
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i am personally convinced enough to eliminate braid and stick to wire only. catching big kings in the middle of the day on wire with a 124 walker diver in 25fow, awesome! who says you need to get your baits away from the boat
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this link can be very helpful, especially early in the year. if you find a good looking surface temp break, it can usually lead to some fish.
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The First In
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right around the corner!
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i use a swivel just for ease of bait changes
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absolutely!
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Its been awhile since i have updated this project. There really has not been much to report until now. Lots of work, but not much to report. I have been working on removing the paint from all the detail areas that the sander could not reach. Most of this was removed with Interlux Interstrip and the rest was hand sanded. All the boo boos in the hull have been cleaned up, patched and feathered out smooth. Now just prep work and going to start the barrier coat on Monday and hopefully have the VC-17 on on tuesday.
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commitment....that and others telling me i was crazy is all that kept me going!
my biggest problem was finding mobile media blasters in my area. There are plenty in michigan and i found one at the Grand Rapids show that i wish i had seen 8 months ago. I do not remember the name of the company though. maybe someone else can help out.
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The problem with okumas creeping is the braid or wire line slipping on the spool. I went through this with a few reels until okuma and tuna toms helped me solve my problem. Easy solution is to splice a really short section of mono to your line to attach to the spool. Otherwise you can have a line tie post added to the spool by tuna toms. In all reality, if okuma knows this is a problem they should just add the posts from the factory.
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Three real options:
1. Sand it down to the gel coat. Just did this last fall and still working on the project. Least expensive, really just your time. The most labor intensive and it is not fun at all.
http://www.greatlakesfisherman.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20095
2. any serious paint stripper such as Interlux Interstrip. I have been using this on area i could not sand. Works really well. Time consuming because you have to wait for it to activate and also messy.
3. Have it soda (or any other media besides sand) blasted. this is probably the best option and most expensive option. If i would, or ever, do it again this is the only way i choose. I did not do this because of cost issues, but it is definitely worth every penny.
feel free to contact me with any questions as i am towards the end of the same project
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Wire will cut the water a little better and reach a bit more depth. I have never had an issue with sea fleas or cotton wood with my wire. It will cut through any of it at the tip.
I personally just love fishing and catching fish on wire. I am retiring my braid divers this year. I think it comes down to personal preference.
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I'm not sure about russ, or the rest of the guys for that matter.
I use MH 7 foot ugly sticks for my long cores and coppers, only $30 and have been abused for about 6 years still going strong. Okuma and shimano have some nice looking rods that are supposed to be designed for copper/leadcore with stainless guides. Okumas are just a few bucks more than the ugly sticks and the shimanos are a bit more than the okumas.
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I agree with you here. Their is absolutley no need for a 10 foot rod on your boat. I wouldn't go over 8'6, I've used 7's, 8'6", & 10's and the 10's are a real pain in the butt to deal with and have no advantage over a 7 or 8' 6". A good rod like a shimano talora or Ugly stick has all the back bone and fast tip you need. The cheaper the rod you buy the less back bone you will have on a longer rod. I have 28 7ft rods and 2 8'6" rods on my boat and never have to break them down for storage. If I had all 8-10 ft rods I wouldn't be able to fit them all on the boat. The other advantage to short rods is manuverablity, Try passing a 10ft rod between a rigger cable if a king charges the boat, ain't happening, or better yet when you got 3 or 4 fish on and you have to switch positions it's alot harder. I guess it's just a personal preference thing. To me, simple is always the way for me.
exactly what i was going to say
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Just saw a news report stating the Bender Park launch will be closed until May 1st for dredging. Apparently the fire department had to rescue a boater stranded on a sandbar prompting the closure and dredging. That will make a lot of brown trout happy!
A couple years ago i read some good spring brown reports on here. Unfortunately I can not recall who wrote the reports. Just a warning if anyone is planning on coming over to fish you will have to launch in Racine, although i do not know if the ramps are even in yet. I'll try to find out today.
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talk to tony from Eyefull Custom Rods
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extinguishers can also "settle." All the chemical will sit on the bottom and clump together. Be sure to check them periodically. You will be able to tell immediately if it has settled because all the weight will be at the bottom.
One way to help avoid this is to mount them sideways instead of upright. The natural rocking of the boat will gently shake the extinguisher and keep it mixed up.
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I talked to Tuna a while ago and he doesn't have the gear upgrades available. Doesn't know when or if he will get anymore. And I think they only fit the 55's.
i think i may have gotten his last ones!
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I am eliminating my braid divers altogether this year and sticking strictly with wire. i think i only fished my braid divers twice last year and that was playing with slide divers.
as far as reels, i am using Okuma Catalinas and love them, but i am fishing almost everyday. If i wasn't doing what i do, some convectors would be perfect to just go out and fish casually. comparing $65 convectors with $170-200 Catalinas or Tekotas is not apples to apples.
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here's a picture from last year of a coho on a large red Action Flasher
http://www.greatlakesfisherman.com/gallery/files/1/7/5/0/coho_and_flasher.jpg' alt='coho_and_flasher.jpg'>
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action flashers in both sizes, red and orange. dont be afraid to use the larger size flashers with the smaller coho flies either. you would be surprised how well a peanut or 2'' fly behind a big flasher works.
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Don't forget to stop by the Outdoorsman Booth and say Hi! Put a lot of faces to names so far, hopefully some more!
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Okay, while we're on the subject. I had a 99 S - 10 with vortec 4.3L in it. Ran great. Put nothing but Royal Purple Synthetic 5w30 in after the warranty was up, sold it with 230K miles on it. I do not run it in my 4.3 marine motor, but have thought about it several times. Any thoughts good or bad?
i think they may make a marine version
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i agree 100% with russ.
Wire Line - What's the big deal?
in Salmon Pro's Connection
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fisherman are very superstitious by nature. I will never have a banana on my boat nor will i ever touch one, eat one and that includes any and all banana products, EVER! but that is a whole different discussion. If the riggers started working after the wires were out i can see not wanting to use wire ever again.
EDITORIAL NOTE: I personally have a hard time believing that having wire line out would make your down riggers stop working. I have gone through hot streaks and many LONG cold streaks with my down riggers (wire always in the water). This seems to be a unpredictable pattern. There are so many other factors to consider then just whether wire was in the water or not. I do not believe we have enough information on the previously stated example to make a clear decision on whether we can convict the wire with a guilty verdict.