J J Mac

Big Jon dual reel planer rigger for sale. See http://www.bigjon.com/store/list.asp?SubTypeID=16&ProductID=46.

• Just like the one on the web site except mine telescopes from 5 ft to 7.5 ft and attaches to the boat via the standard Big Jon 4"x4" plate
  
• In like new, excellent conditon. Still has original chartreuse line installed. Used very little.
  
• Guaranteed to be as listed or you can return by paying shipping back.
  

• Located in Midland, MI
  

$175 + actual shipping cost

Message me for phone number if interested.

Capt. Levi has it right on wire line size.

I usually will run wire for dipseys only but sometimes run it straight down the chute with a lead weight on the snap to get it down. In this case I will tie a mono leader to the snap swivel at the end of the wire.

A 1000 ft spool of 30 lb braided wire line will just fill a Daiwa SG 47 LCA line- counter reel. I put a few wraps of leadcore line around the reel arbor and tie the wire to that with a uni-knot (lead removed from the end of the leadcore). You could use more leadcore backer or even large dia mono if your reel has more capacity. To fasten the snap swivel to the end of the wire I use a simple slip knot - the arbor knot without a stop knot in the tag end works well. I have found this works much better than crimping on a sleeve.

I use rods with roller guides for wire. Even then the wire will coil up at the end after a while and sometimes get a kink in it if you are not careful and must be cut off. You can also reverse the wire.

Scum lines are formed by Langmuir Circulation caused primarily by the wind. Here are three sites to read about how they are formed.

http://faculty.gvsu.edu/videticp/langmuir.htm

Page 3 of

http://www.lmvp.org/Waterline/Waterline%20Winter%202002.pdf

http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~chinwu/CEE514_Coastal_Engineering/2001_Students_Web/Dave_Calkins/Main.html

Captain Marv McDonald here of J J Mac Charters. I operate a charterboat on Lake Michigan out of Ludington. Last year I got a Captain's license and now take customers out. My two sons are also avid fishermen and fished with me a lot when growing up. One son will also offer charters for both salmon and walleyes out of the Cedar River State Harbor on NW Lake Michigan starting this summer under the name of Fin-Addict Charters. My website is http://webpages.charter.net/jjmaccharters.

I am a retired chemical engineer and worked in R&D mostly in plastics. In addition to fishing I am an avid bird hunter and spend about three weeks in South Dakota and North Dakota in late October/early November after pheasants and waterfowl. Great fun too, glad I don't have to choose between fishing and hunting!

Re: Colors

I believe it is safe to say that most people who use leadcore a lot let all the leadcore out so that it is beyond the tip of the rod and past the inline planer board if one is used. This is because of bad experience with the lead core line wearing particularly at the rod top guide and breaking off later. If inline boards are used, the constant motion causes a lot of wear. If no board is used, then the wear is not as bad but can still cause problems after a while. I usually run half cores and/or full cores. If I want to get down deeper than these will go, I add sinkers via snap weights on the backer side of the backer/leadcore knot and then let the line out some more. This way you can get the half core to run as deep or deeper than the full core depending on the weight used and the amount of backer let out.

Even if you leave some leadcore line on the reel it is best to count the colors as you put the line out unless you have line counter reels because you usually can't be sure of the order of the repeating colors on the line unless you are sure to do it the same way every time, don't ever splice in more line to fix a broken line, etc.

I usually use back-to-back uni-knots after removing about 6 inches of lead from the leadcore line. Remove the lead by sliding back the outer sheath and breaking the lead off. This works well. Using 20 lb mono, four wraps is sufficient with the mono and even less wraps will be ok for the leadcore. If you use small diameter backing like braided line, then double the braided end so that the small diameter line will not cut the end of the leadcore. Check your knots frequently as you put the line out.

Another way I've heard good reports about is as follows:

Strip out 8"-10" of lead from the leadcore line. In this dacron sheath that has no lead, make a single overhand knot but DO NOT tighten it down. Then take one end of backing or leader and insert it as far into the dacron line as you can get it. Then work the overhand knot down until you know that when you tighten the knot, it will be over the backing or leader. I have not used this knot but believe it works for small diameter backing or leader line - don't know if the 20 # mono can be slipped into the sheath or not.

I like Great Lakes Angler but not sure of their circulation.

I have four downriggers on my boat but many times use only two. There are so many presentations now and many of them work better than downriggers (especilly the inside ones) much of the time. A typical setup for me assuming 3 fishermen and 9 lines out might be:

- two riggers with sliders (usually fixed 10 ft above main bait but

sometimes free)

- two deep divers on wire (one off each side)

- two high divers on braid or mono (one off each side)

- two lead core lines off planer boards (one off each side)

- one lead core line straight back from the middle of the boat

If I have more people, I might run four lead core lines off planer boards (two on each side), a high line straight down the middle, and/or the other two riggers. Depending on depth of the fish, I may run shallow lines off the outer planer boards.