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Posts posted by TyeeII

  1. You don't tie the leadcore directly to the bait, you tie a leader on the end of the leadcore, and then a snap swivel to the end of the leader. I use 30' of  20# flourocarbon leader for flashers, tied with a willis knot. Never had an issue with the willis knot, but a double uni knot works great too for both mono/flouro or braid tied to leadcore (after removing a few inches of lead from it's sheath), especially with micro leadcore that is too thin to make a willis knot.

  2. Church walley boards are fine for 5 and 7 colors. They struggle with 10 colors, but as long as it's not real choppy they work. I use an offshore OR-19 release that I set to not release. Lots of guys use the church lockjaw release the same way. Reel the board in to the boat, take the board off, then fight the fish without the board.

  3. They already do plant some 800,000 Chinook in Huron still but supposedly they all leave and head to Lake Michigan. Because of this, those fish are counted towards the LM stocking totals. 

    The question is, why not just stock those fish in LM if they are counted as LM fish?

    A lot of the things we are told to believe don't make sense...

  4. You can definitely see bug hatches on your locator. We were once fishing what we thought were bait schools when the water behind us turned dark brown and started to look like smoke. Then we trolled right through one of the pods of insects and you almost couldn't breathe. It was a midge fly hatch we experienced that was so thick it was almost biblical.

    If you were surrounded by flies on deck, I would say those definitely could be insect hatches you marked.

    • Like 1
  5. Good to know, thanks! If it's holding up to a rigger (even a hand cranker), I should have no problem with my table mount. I've never seen anyone else use the V-lock on a Great Lakes boat but there's a lot of ways to use them.

    Sorry for the hijack...I hope Hockey's cover works out for him.

    • Like 1
  6. It probably won't be an issue and maybe it will serve as an index so you can put your release back where you got a hit or caught a fish. I just talked to a friend who stacks a lot and he's been using those Scotty's for a few years now with no issues at all. Just don't forget they're on there when you bring the rigger up.

  7. I guess "best way" is a relative phrase. Marine tex is not meant to be coated with gel coat. People do it maybe, but it won't last. Last I checked it said it right on the box.

    5200 will seal your holes just fine but it's more of a quick fix and not really the "best way" to patch screw holes in a cored fiberglass transom, IMO. There's some very knowledgeable guys on hull truth and iBOATS that would say the same thing.

  8. The best way is to over-drill out any remaining sealer or adhesive and fill the holes with a thickened epoxy like West Systems G-flex. The G-flex comes in 2 tubes and you have to mix equal parts together. I got some free syringes from Walgreens and used them to inject the epoxy into the holes. If you ever want to gel coat over the old holes, it will not adhere to marine tex. You can also find color coordinated gel coat at iBOATS.com. I bought some for my '92 Grady White and it matched pretty close to perfect.

    • Like 1
  9. Would a normal stamp still be available, which is to say if you didn't want the additional cost of this proposed new stamp, you could still buy a standard stamp and fish the Great Lakes with your usual rods per man? I'm just wondering if the high price tag might deter some from getting into the game, and you definitely don't want that to happen. Also, there are many people on here and other sites that believe less is more who might not like having to pay more if they won't be using more rods.

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