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Flooring problems


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Hello everyone, i have a 1989 24 lund genmar hardtop, i have a bad spot in the floor by the livewell, i will probably have to do the floor,i have heard of foamin the boat being waterlogged, was wondering if the floor and replacing the foam could be a do it your self job, funds are very tight for labor, so i have to save anywhere possible, any info would help...looking forward to maybe meeting some of you guys this year, maybe meeting a few new fishing partners,my main mate and crewman is on his way to afganistan, marines, infantry...thanks guys, any help or info would be great..Ron Niemasz,,TAILWALKER..

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i have heard of foamin the boat being waterlogged, was wondering if the floor and replacing the foam could be a do it your self job, funds are very tight for labor, so i have to save anywhere possible, any info would help...

Some basic mechanical inclination and some tools and yes this can be done yourself! I have pictures I'll have to find of replacing an entire floor including the foam/floatation underneath. My better half is a freak about taking picures of my projects throughout the project. I did this to a 16' Starcraft that I found on the side of the road that was completely water logged and had been burrowed out with varmints storing black walnuts!

(found the pics, I'll scan them and post them later)

Bought the boat/motor/trailer for 600 bucks (the rotted tires even about fell off 2 miles from the house) Stripped it, rebuilt the floor and dashboard, used it for 4 years or so and sold it for 1500ish if memory serves me correctly.

You have to think this kind of work is fun though or it won't be a good time at all, it will be a pain in the arse unless you like to do this kind of work. I think I had less then 200 bucks into the floor. 3/4" marine grade plywood, indoor/outdoor carpet, adhesive, etc etc. (the original floor was riveted down and I used deck screws to reattach) *NOTE* Obviously make sure the screws don't go through the hull!!!

I'd be willing to give a hand or just be there for questions etc, shoot me a pm if you need!

T

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I am also one of the adventurous ones.

Bought an "old" 16' tri-hull, ended up replacing the floor, and the transom on that one.

Was quite the job, but we (my son and I) sure made good use of that old boat after we finished it. And the only thing, take your time and enjoy what your doing.

For me it was a great feeling to have my son there working with me.

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  • 4 weeks later...

A buddy of mine bought an old boat years ago that needed a floor. Instead of going through the extra work of removing the floor and fitting a new one. They removed the hardware of the old floor, installed new wood over the top and painted the wood. It looked decent and saved a lot of money and a lot of time/headaches. I don't recall if they added somthing for grip in the paint but you could do this also. If you have a small area that is very soft you could just replace that section then cover the whole thing with another layer of wood.

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Hello everyone, i have a 1989 24 lund genmar hardtop, i have a bad spot in the floor by the livewell,Ron Niemasz,,TAILWALKER..

This is a very do-able do-it-yourself project. Personally I would not just put a floor on top. I would also check for leaks around the livewell. You need to find what caused the problem in the first place.

Use marine grade plywood and carpet and a quality adhesive. Use the old floor materials as a template and cutting guide. It's not as hard as it looks. This forum will help you through it. Good luck. :)

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A buddy of mine bought an old boat years ago that needed a floor. Instead of going through the extra work of removing the floor and fitting a new one. They removed the hardware of the old floor, installed new wood over the top and painted the wood. It looked decent and saved a lot of money and a lot of time/headaches. I don't recall if they added somthing for grip in the paint but you could do this also. If you have a small area that is very soft you could just replace that section then cover the whole thing with another layer of wood.

Man! Wish I'd a thought of that.....

Actually sounds like a time saver but I wonder what it does to the capacity of the boat????? Not to mention the speed....

I don't mean this in a bad way I just wonder if it actually changes the capacity.... I mean, it has to.......

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I agree with what Rayman96 said that this is a do-able project to do. However it will take a lot ot time and a bunch of money.

Although I'm sure the next thing I say will get me banded from all fishing related websites but IMHO I wouldn't even use "marine grade" plywood. I'm not sure of the cost differance Now but that last Time I bought it the Marine Grade was around 40 a sheet and the high grade finish plywood was 40% cheaper.

I know I am a stickler on doing things right the first time and that you should solve the problem that caused the water problem in the first place, but we're talking about a boat thats only 20 years old and if the so called marine grade plywood they used the first time lasted less than that then it wasn;t right to begin with. If you do it the way I describe and then seal with paint and sealent you will get many years out of the wood.

Also weight was mentioned. I repair the areas that are already soft and go with a recover and only 1/2 plywood to keep the weight down. It can't weigh as much as the radar arches people are installing.

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I have the exact same boat and replaced the flooring about 5 years ago. It took a week but the floor is still solid. I cut the deck at the stairs to the cabin to allow a full sheet to be used. I also cut the drain and supply line to the live well in the engine box and spliced it back together when done. The screws to hold the deck down I got from ACE Hardware (large head and self tapping). I did not carpet the deck. Replaced it with the same material that was on the floor. It washes down alot easier than carpet. While I was in there I also replaced the fuel tank supply and vent line. If I filled the tank full I always had gas fumes. Found the vent line was trapping gas in a loop and then when the tank heated it leaked at the vent.

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  • 1 year later...

I decided to also replace the floor in my boat a 1969 Starcraft Holiday 18ft. All wood was shot, I used 2x4 stained them and then ran 1/2 plywood stained top and bottom.The hardest part was cutting the front to match the boat curves,the trick is to use cardboard as a template then outline on plywood and cut with a jigsaw.I decide to forgo carpet and added roll on truck bed liner with a lil sand stirred in.It looks great and will last a long time and is non slip and best of all if it gets stained just hose off! This was my first boat and its no frills just a fishing machine .

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If you can carefully remove the old floor sections you can use them as patterns for the new floor. I know some people that have put a thin putty coat of a FG material on both sides and the edges. Whatever you do, do NOT used pressure treated plywood.:)

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I sell floorcovering, and I think you could probably make a few bucks on the side as a flooring installer.

Did you replace the waterlogged foam? What did you replace it with if you did.

:no: Too much work.

The problem was the cover and floor was allowing rainwater to infiltrate those areas and the genius's foamed in all of the weep holes for the hull. I cut out the bad parts and replaced them with a two part foam (I can't remember what it was). I then used the Nautolex in single pieces on each side to create a bath tub in the cockpit and stern that drains to the bilge in the back of the boat.

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I have done several boats over the years and it is not a tough job I agree with Reel World I don't use marine grade plywood nor do I use thick plywood. I used quality 1/2 decking and once all the peices were cut I sealed them and painted them. Once the first layer was down I layed down a second layer and overlaped all the seams also water sealed and painted the second layer before installing it. I put baffles in the back to keep the foam away from the bildge pump and left a rod storage locker in the center of the floor on my last one. once everything is layed out with the first layer use a hole saw to cut openings to add the pour foam. Don't get carried away with the foam a little makes a lot of foam I think it took 2 quarts of each part in 2lb density to do a 18ft boat. When done you will have a dance floor you can be proud of my brother is pushing 400lbs and can dance on my old boat floor with now issues.

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