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Depth raider probe attachment


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Hey guys. Just wondering for those of you out there that use coated cable, which method of attachment do you use?

Not sure if I should try it with a rigger swivel or just tie it straight?

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When I had a Depth Raider I used a Klincher. The rivet that goes through the body to hold the snap swivel was replaced with a bolt (non stainless) and 2" of extra stripped coated cable wire run through the U shaped fitting and terminated on the bolt. All of the stripped wire, the bolt and the snap swivel covered in a couple of coats of liquid electrical tape with the snap open so all of it was coated too. Once dried the snap could be connected to the probe and allow for removal of the probe from the rigger. It worked well for the 4 years I had it.

Sold the DR because I was always having to fix the coated cable where the coating would come off and it would stop working whenever the uncoated part hit the water. Even went so far as to replace the cable after year 3 rather than patch it, but the new cable was just as bad.

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I use a breakaway cable to the ball and attach the probe to the end of the cable with a regular snap swivel. I drilled a hole in the metal on top of the probe and put a small bolt in it and attached a 6 or 8" piece of coated wire and put male end on it and on the snap (or clincher) or whatever its called I ran an extra 6 or so inched of cable out and put a female end on it so I can just pull them apart and remove the probe easily and have almost no bare wire. Works well.

Hat tip to others including a marina that is on this site a lot but I can't think of their name at the moment for their input and pics.

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Check out the Moor Sub-Troll Klincher Kit (part # 88-088-032) for a clean way to connect. You can modify a Klincher like the above post but the kit from Moor is simple and works well.

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I use the Moor Sub-troll part for termination. Not sure what you guys do to ruin a coated cable. I've run a coated cable since about 1999, I think. I changed the cable once, just because I thought it might be a good thing to do, not because of any damage to the cable or coating. Must be the type of rigger or how it's deployed and/or re-spooled. 15 years and never had an issue.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Okay so if the whole swivel on the klincher is costed in liquid electrical tape how does the signal get transmitted from the probe to the line?

Sorry, you're right... the snap on the clincher is not fully coated with the rubber. The end where it connects to the probe is left with bare metal. Also works better with a standard steel (not stainless) snap swivel as it transmits the electrical signal better.

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Was trying to find this on the net but found it in our gallery here, could not find it on the moor site but did find a clincher kit there:

06-29-09_subtroll_klincher_connection_2.0.jpg

This is a better pic off the Moor site:

88-088-032.JPG

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  • 1 month later...
When I had a Depth Raider I used a Klincher. The rivet that goes through the body to hold the snap swivel was replaced with a bolt (non stainless) and 2" of extra stripped coated cable wire run through the U shaped fitting and terminated on the bolt. All of the stripped wire, the bolt and the snap swivel covered in a couple of coats of liquid electrical tape with the snap open so all of it was coated too. Once dried the snap could be connected to the probe and allow for removal of the probe from the rigger. It worked well for the 4 years I had it.

Sold the DR because I was always having to fix the coated cable where the coating would come off and it would stop working whenever the uncoated part hit the water. Even went so far as to replace the cable after year 3 rather than patch it, but the new cable was just as bad.

How did you fix the coated cable? I don't know why mine is wearing off. I'm using big jon riggers.

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