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TR-1 gold auto pilot


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Hoping someone could help me I've been looking everywhere and can't find the answer. Im about to buy the TR-1 gold auto pilot and the speed controller for my Yamaha 8hp kicker. The only issue I'm having is that I have a electric linear actuator for steering already installed on the kicker using the main motor a Yamaha 150 with it's own independent steering as a rudder for fine adjustment steering which is getting annoying. But the TR-1 uses a hydrolic control. I don't want to go making huge changes to my boat, having to buy extra parts. Is there any way I could just bypass the hydrolic pump on the TR-1 and wire it to my already installed electric actuator? In simpler terms I just want to use the interface and speed control. I'm also open to other options if there better/easier.

I'm hooking the auto pilot up to my Lowrance HDS-7 on my Sea Hunt Triton 207.

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I'd call Frank at Calumet Marine (site sponsor -- 708-862-2407). They have installed a lot of TR1 APs and are very innovative with solving problems. Tell Frank you're on GLF and describe your situation and what you want to do and see what can be done.

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Hoping someone could help me I've been looking everywhere and can't find the answer. Im about to buy the TR-1 gold auto pilot and the speed controller for my Yamaha 8hp kicker. The only issue I'm having is that I have a electric linear actuator for steering already installed on the kicker using the main motor a Yamaha 150 with it's own independent steering as a rudder for fine adjustment steering which is getting annoying. But the TR-1 uses a hydrolic control. I don't want to go making huge changes to my boat, having to buy extra parts. Is there any way I could just bypass the hydrolic pump on the TR-1 and wire it to my already installed electric actuator? In simpler terms I just want to use the interface and speed control. I'm also open to other options if there better/easier.

I'm hooking the auto pilot up to my Lowrance HDS-7 on my Sea Hunt Triton 207.

No I am sory that won't work With a garmin TR1

The hyd pump and controller is only for the hyd steering cylinder used on the kicker will not steer the main motor or actuate and other steering devices

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I was at my lake and forgot to take pictures of my setup so you could see what I'm working with. I don't need to steer the main motor, I have been looking and saw many people use the TR-1 just on the kicker independently from the main motor and essentially using the main as a rudder. What I was looking to do. But the only difference is that the people using this set up, previously had a link bar between the main and kicker. Unfortunately the way I had to mount my kicker that option wasn't available. The reason why it has a electric linear actuator for steering.

I found my steering set up on the internet and will post it so you can see what I'm working with. But won't be able to show the kicker motor mount to the boat because it was custom made.

My set up now is a through tilt tube electro steer exactly like the one on this site http://www.iboats.com/Freshwater-Series-Electro-Steer-T4-Panther/dm/view_id.341441

Mine just isn't a panther, can't remember what mine is but is the exact same as the one on the site. To control the steering the actuator is hooked up to a simple pushbutton rocker control switch. So my original idea was just to bypass the hydraulics and use the TR-1 as the rocker switch. Hoping that the TR-1 interface sends its signal to the hydraulic pump the same way my rocker switch set up does i.e. puts "charge" on one cable for "out" and switches it to the other cable for "in." Speaking for a lack of better terms and length sakes.

Also getting rid of the throttle cable run up to my counsel on my current set up and using the TR-1 throttle control for better response. My current throttle set up has to go, I've dealt with playing with the speed for long enough. If there is no wind to help push the boat I either have to choose too slow or too fast. Thats if I don't want to be playing with the throttle for 3/4 of my fishing time to get the boat to target speed. Im 68 yrs old, I want to plot a course, easily set my speed and enjoy retirement!

If that still won't work do you know of any auto pilots that I could make work with my set up? I do have a grandson who is a computer engineer, so if something small has to be designed it can be. Not looking to re invent the wheel though!

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Sounds to me like the TR1 will do what your current remote steering solution does plus more and add the integrated throttle control. Rather than trying to jimmie up a solution that Frank/Prop Nut says won't/can't work, I'd just take off the current remote steering and install the TR1. Sell the current setup and recover some of what the TR1 costs.

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Yes you would be correct the TR-1 or any other good suggested AP's would control the kicker. I'm not worried about failures. The only time the kicker is used is when I'm trolling if the TR-1 fails by some freak chance, all I have to do it's turn the engine key off and use the main motor. But anyways I'll have to look up the specs and the length of the hydraulic actuator and the mount to see if it's possible to install it without major modifications. That's my only worries. I just want to at all possible costs keep the boat out of the shop which as we all know would save a pretty penny. I can do most things but will not do it myself if the product will be an eye sore.

Was trying to save myself some work but looks like that went down the drain!

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Ok so this looks do-able. i've been looking at the motor mounts for the TR-1 and it doesn't look like it would inhibit the power tilt/trim on my kicker. But would like to know for sure. Anyone know if it does?

Forget my last comment about specs, I guess I didn't fully understand how the hydraulic actuator was mounted.

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I have a TR-1 mounted on a Yamaha T9.9 and it doesn't inhibit the tilt/trim or anything else on the motor. It is a full blown auto pilot, not just remote steering like you have now. When installed properly it is definitely not an eye sore and does a great job.

The actual install involves mounting the pump unit somewhere inside the transom area, mounting the hydraulic cylinder on the motor, mounting the compass ball towards the front of the boat in an area free of any magnetic influences and running wires for the control and power. Because it is an actual auto pilot you have to tune it on the water to match your boat's characteristics once it is installed. All this is "do-able" by a good mechanic but I would consider the advantages of having an experienced, certified installer doing it if possible. Ultimately how well the TR-1 works and how happy you are with it will depend on the installation and tuning.

post-1258-1449878786454_thumb.jpg

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