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advice on lead core to planer board


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I am an old time Lake Michigan fisherman (thanks to my Dad). I'm getting back into G.L. fishing. Times have changed (well, OK, a while back, but I was out of the loop)! All I knew was (know is?) down-riggers and weighted "high-lines". Now there is this lead core. OK, I'm all ears, but here's my question; if you use an in-line planer board (such that you have to reel it in to release it and remove it before you bring in the fish), can you attach the lead core to the planer board (allowing you to put out as many colors as you see fit) or must you get to the mono / braided backer line to connect to the board? (Same question put another way, if you attach lead core to the board do you trash the line?)

I'd really like some advice on this, thank you!!

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Welcome to the site...

What area are you in?

Running core/Copper is as easy or as difficult as you want to make it.

Jwheeler is correct. Doing this will weaken the leadcore/copper.

If you are worried about having to many rods or needing to many rods, you can always use shorter core with dive bombs.

Dave

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Welcome aboard

Some guys will load a reel with a full core, and put short segments of Mono at different intervals to attach the board to. It's not a good idea to attach a board to core.

I use a standard Albright knot when tying core to mono.

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Welcome aboard

Some guys will load a reel with a full core, and put short segments of Mono at different intervals to attach the board to. It's not a good idea to attach a board to core.

I use a standard Albright knot when tying core to mono.

I'm not sure the name of the knot that I use for lead core, I take some lead out of the sheath, then make a simple over hand knot and leave it loose. I then feed the backer or leader into the sheath of the lead core and then cinch it tight. This knot has been very good for me. :thumb:

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The Willis Knot works well with some lead core lines and not so well with others.

Especially the new thinner, so called "Advanced" lead core lines. Good luck tying a Willis knot with those. It's basically impossible!

When possible, I also use and love the Willis knot.

When its not possible, I have also used the Albright knot. Both have worked very well for me.

When tying the Albright knot, which works especially well when joining lines of different diameters or materials, always wrap the thinner line over the thicker line.

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The Willis Knot works well with some lead core lines and not so well with others.

Especially the new thinner, so called "Advanced" lead core lines. Good luck tying a Willis knot with those. It's basically impossible!

When possible, I also use and love the Willis knot.

When its not possible, I have also used the Albright knot. Both have worked very well for me.

When tying the Albright knot, which works especially well when joining lines of different diameters or materials, always wrap the thinner line over the thicker line.

Anybody have any luck with the thinner lead core? I went to it last year and my core was pretty much dead all summer.

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Thanks all for the welcome. I used to fish out of Muskegon but now I will be trailering the boat to the lake. Nearest port is South Haven. Nice amenities but I haven't had much luck catching fish there :)

I like the idea of having short sections of mono between a few colors. Until I have to tie all those knots, I suppose. But I don't have the budget luxury of multiple rigs.

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I like the idea of having short sections of mono between a few colors. Until I have to tie all those knots, I suppose. But I don't have the budget luxury of multiple rigs.

I'm in the same boat, the added expense and room for storage on the boat is a draw back to having too many rigs. Something I have done, I have bought extra reels that I find for very good prices. Word of mouth, garage sales, classifieds on the forum. I buy them and then spool them with whatever LC or copper that I want. Then, I stow the reels on the boat, and if what I am using is not working I just swap out reels on the pole already being used.

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I run both the older Suffix leadcore and the newer advanced 832 in 18# and the newer stuff seems to run deeper, not much but maybe a foot per section, I'm guessing.

If you can do a Willis knot on the new stuff your a better man than I. :)

I could not get the 12# big game mono to slide into the leadcore.

The Albright seems to work on both for me, so that's what I use.

I run a length of backing mono, then 5 or 6 colors, then a leader of mono.

To save number of different depth set ups, I'll add a snap weight to the leader just after the leadcore to get a bit deeper.

I also do not hook the planer board up to the leadcore and use the backing for that.

Al

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Like most of the other guys. Board goes on the backer, I usually use braid power pro 30for my backer, splice an 8' piece of 40# mono in to attach the board to, I do use al lot of short cores in the spring. 1 color(SWR) 2 color(SWR), 4 color 6 color 10 color. All have different presentations. I like Walleye Boards, biggest problem is getting people to keep their rod tip low, and bring the board to the boat with rod tip low, remove board, and then fight your fish. Willis knot to splice the Leadcore to the backer. Works well when u use the mono spacer. You can try using an Albright knot, if you want to use all braid backer. Once you get to summer fishing, you will want to try copper rigs. They account for a lot of fish in July and August.

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