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I've got a 21' Crestliner with a Shoreland'r Roller bed trailer. It's very difficult (near impossible) to center consistently. Definitely impossible alone. It's really embarrassing to have to keep backing down 2 or more times to readjust. I've tried backing in at different depths but every ramp is different and it shouldn't be that difficult. Question is:

I want to get some side boat guides, so should I get the post type or the roller type? Or any other suggestions?

roller: http://www.veveinc.com/shop/Boat-Trailer-Roller-Guide-Ons/

post: http://www.veveinc.com/shop/Boat-Trailer-Post-Guide-Ons-For-Boats-and-Pontoons/

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I've been thinking of fabricating something like this, myself. I'd think either would be fine as long as you had a barrier of foam to prevent marring. I was thinking of covering PVC with grey foam pipe insulation.

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Hi Ron,

I've had similar problems with my crestliner. I think they're hard to center because of them being aluminum and floating so high. Mine moves like crazy in the back end area while I'm trying to crank it up. I made some guides out of pvc for it and easily broke them about the 2nd time out. The boat floats high but is still pretty heavy when it moves. I actually put a fiberglass marker post up on mine like what I use to mark my driveway during the winter. I know if the boat is 2" from that "flag" then it's centered, plus it gives if the boat moves or is brought in crooked.

If you go with the guides I would say the roller looks beefier and that's what you'd need for a rigid guide.

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I fought with my boat getting lined up to go on the bunks for a few years before adding guide-ons this year. I went with the post style which has an aluminum post with a PVC tube. I went with the CE Smith model 27635 which could be bigger/taller than you need as it has 84" posts. They have shorter ones too.

They have both U bolt bracket for tubular frame trailers and clamp on for I-beam frames. Mine has the I-beam and it took all of 15 minutes to install.

On my boat the ends of the bunks are typically deeper than the hull so until the boat is about 1/2 of the way loaded. What I have found this year is that getting lined up is real easy and they keep it lined up perfectly all the way up. Another big benefit is that it is much easier to back the trailer in without the boat as now I have something sticking up I can see. Before on a lot of ramps I would loose sight when the trailer was on the down slope but the Avalanche was still above.

I found the best price by far at this website http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Boat-Trailer-75-inch-Galvanized-I-Beam-Guide-Pole-Post-Kit_p_878.html. Actually ordered from Overtons though because they do price matching and also free shipping.

Here is a picture of them from the company (just a coincidence that it is a SeaCat used as the "model" boat -- but it did help me decide):

79535_L1?$highres3$

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Posts with pipe over it for me. Don't have anything on the trailer and boat I have now. But last 2 boats I had the post/pipe guides put on. One boat was an 18 foot and the other I thought might be too big for them was a 22 foot fiberglass. Worked great.

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  • 2 years later...

I have a 2000 22 ft crestliner eagle on a roller Shorelander with no guide posts. You are putting the trailer in the water way too far. If you back the trailer in until the back rollers are just an inch or 2 under water the boat will center itself perfect every time. Granted you have to extend the winch strap longer and crank in more cable. A Dr Hook pole to attach the cable to the bow of the boat keeps your feet dry or you have to tight rope your way down the trailer frame to hook up. I bough the Dr hook and it works great. If you back the trailer in too deep, the boat just floats around over the rear rollers.

puking dog

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