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Copper knots


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Hi all I am tying up some copper rods for the first time and had a quick question for people who know more than I do.

I have my braid backer to the copper tied with an Albright knot.

no problems here.

from my copper to my 25 lb mono leader I tied another Albright knot and this is where my problem is.

the knot no matter what I do to it wont seem to lay down nice and keeps catching on the level wind and some of the smaller guides!

if anyone had some suggestions on how to make this knot smoother id be grateful...

thanks to everyone for all the great information on the forum.... its been a REEL help!

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We use the Spro 50# swivels.

Never had a problem + quick fix on the water if you get kinks..

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** We tie a haywire twist with copper then use shrink tube so the end doesn't fray. Then whatever knot you prefer on the other side with your mono.

Edited by Great Gazoo
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Ive had this problem also when makeing setups with 45lb copper. The only thing that Ive found to work is a small spro swivle, this will slide thru the guides of my Diawa wilderness rods and my okuma 55s that have the narrow level winds.

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From previous experience I would suggest splicing in a piece of 4-5 ft 30lb mono between your braid and copper. It's a easier for the planer boards and also I've had the braid break at the albright knot enough times to piss me off. Braid doesn't stand up to abrasion too well.

I havent had a problem with the mono to copper knot size, but I run the okuma copper rods and also upgraded my 55's with the big line guides.

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I like to tie an albright knot and then do a haywire twist with the tag end of the copper. The haywire really helps get the knot started going through the guides. I would also suggest adding a piece of mono to attach your boards to like Eric suggested. Another thing that will help is to keep your rod tip lower when you get to the splice, and it will slide through easier.

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I am finicky and just dont like flouro/mono or braid against metal, so i use a spro for all splices. Haywire twist on the copper side and a palomar on the other. My sentiments are the same as kyles in regard to the mono on the back end of the copper for attaching to the board. Releases grip mono much better and dont get tore up by it nearly as fast as the braid does. Also, if your running the churshes itll saw into that slot and through the pin with use....As mentioned, lower your angle on the rod when the splice is coming through. Helps a ton. Depending on your reel model, you can tweak the line guide a bit as well to allow the larger knots passage. I do this with my Penns by inserting a pair of needle nose in there and ever so slightly opening it up. Works great and doesnt effect reel function.

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I have lost many walleye boards with mono in the setup. I find the albright knot fails fairly quick when tied to the copper with braid. I do fish 100 plus trips a year and mono worked great in the beginning of each season it gets weak after many uses. I now tie power pro directly to the copper using a howy knot. Make a single knot in the copper with the braid going thru it. loop the braid and twist over copper and braid 20 times approx. Pull line thru loop.pull that knot up tight to other knot. Hasnt failed this year yet. Comes through levelwind of Tekota and Convector reels fine. I have had SPRO swivels fail in the past. With in experienced fishermen on board I have seen it all and the above mentioned howy knot has worked best for me.

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I like to tie an albright knot and then do a haywire twist with the tag end of the copper. The haywire really helps get the knot started going through the guides. I would also suggest adding a piece of mono to attach your boards to like Eric suggested. Another thing that will help is to keep your rod tip lower when you get to the splice, and it will slide through easier.

This is exactly what i do. I have most copper on okuma pro leadcore rods as i have had at least 3 or 4 copper rods break so far this year. No upgrades on reels and i have zero probs. Just my .02

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