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help with building rod trees


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Ok I want to build 2 or 3 holder rod trees, I don't have the money to buy them. My plan is to use 2" od aluminum tubing. The base will be 4" by 6" aluminum with a smaller od to fit into main tube, then I will drill holes to pin in or out position. Now where I am stumped isto how to cut the holder to fit flush against the main tube for welding and what angle to have holders coming off the main tube. Should top holder angle towards bow of boat? When everything is done ,and I'm done fishing with them this fall I plan on having it all poweder coated. Any help or tips would be greatly apreciated!

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to cut the tubing to weld tight. Use a 2 inch hole saw, Clamp the tubing tight in a drill press. As for the angle you will just have to play with that. Since you will be drilling at a steeper angle than the hole saw will swallow.you might have to back out and remove the first piece out of the hole saw.

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Use a hole saw the same diameter as the vertical tube. For your rod tubes make them twice as long as you will need. Drill with the hole saw through the rod tube in the middle ( half way between ends). That will give you 2 pieces to use for rod tubes with the correct diameter to weld to the vertical tube.

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I tried what the two above said, and it would not work for me. The hole say I was using kept grabbing the tubing and twisting/flinging it. I cut my trees on a miter saw and used a belt sander to cut the cove. The top one is at 50 deg. ,and the lower one is at 45 deg. The top holder is offset forward of the lower one also.

I also made a launcher that slips into the trees.

1d2n9990.jpg

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Hole saw works best, it also works best if you can use a Bridgeport mill, get the RPM's down 200-400.

I tried on my drill press at home and the pipe kept jumping out of the vise.

I started out with trees, then made a rocket launcher to go over the boat. the trees still rotate 90 degs so I can swing them in while coming into dock.

you will also want to paint or powder coat the alum after you build, otherwise you will get a mess on your hands every time you touch the raw alum.

good luck, PM me if you have any other questions.

imag0112.jpg

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You can get a tubing notcher that is made just for this purpose(has a clamp, and a guide for the hole saw) from Harbor Freight for something under $50.

I think the 2" tube is a little bit big for it, but it can be done. You can of course also make your own. Too much to type here, if interested, pm me.

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  • 7 months later...

I cut the raduis, and angle, in a vertical milling machine.

Do not forget to put drain holes/slots in them.

Used Great Lakes Planner rubber end caps, to complete the job.

8 rod launcher, front/rear lights, with 4 place bird trees, and mounted Big Jon reels also.:thumb:

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go to a recycle center that sells seconds.....i bought a 20' section of alum tubing inside dia 1.75 inch outside dia 2.0 inch for $20..... then I searched around and found a welder that would work on the side for beer and fish..in the end, i got my trees AND cannons for under $125 (after hardware, and misc), bonus, I made a good friend and drank a couple brews......

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  • 7 months later...

You don't really have to notch them out and weld all the way around if you don't want to. I know that the Stinger trees were only welded on the top and bottom. Plenty strong enough to hold rods. I can check mine but they are different angles, flatter as they go down. If I was going to make them I would have the top holders angled slightly forward with the bottom one straight out. I would also make them so that they rotate. I have to take them down when I dock.

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I could not decide on a final design so I made a arch out of schedule 40 PVC 2 years ago total cost was under 50 bucks took about 2 hours to build and has fished fine for 2 seasons. If I ever build the finished product it will have rod holders that I can reposition as needed. My current issue is if I keep the boat I want to build a hardtop for it but I may end up getting a different boat.

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  • 1 month later...

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