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The easiest way it to tie a leader at about 6 ft long with a ball-bearing swivel and snap on one end. On the other end tie a barrel swivel with no snap. Then, stinger or a couple of other companies sell snaps with one end dipped in rubber. There is a cut in the rubber for your line to catch in. Attach the non rubber side of the snap to the barrel swivel. When you want to put the slider on your line, attach your spoon to the ball-bearing swivel, let your line down with the ball how ever far you want. Then take the snap on the otherside of the leader and clip it around your line. Get the line into the slit in the rubber and then throw the spoon on the slider so that it lands strait out behind the main line. Proceed to set your line at the final depth. Maybe someone has a picture of their slider setups so you can see what I am talking about.

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Another method is the Rubber band method, Set your main line as normal send it down about 10 ft or where ever u want to run the slider, attach a leader that is 4 to 6 ft in length with snap swivels on both ends 1 has the lure the other goes around the main line. take a #16 rubber pass it around the main line and secure it to the swivel attached to the main line. Do not tighten it so much it will not slide down the line when a fish hits. Be sure to put a stop about 3 ft above your bottom bait to keep the slider fm going all the way to the main line swivel. I have used this for a long time to make fixed sliders, no more gadgets to buy as I use bands for releases.

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Another method is the Rubber band method, Set your main line as normal send it down about 10 ft or where ever u want to run the slider, attach a leader that is 4 to 6 ft in length with snap swivels on both ends 1 has the lure the other goes around the main line. take a #16 rubber pass it around the main line and secure it to the swivel attached to the main line. Do not tighten it so much it will not slide down the line when a fish hits. Be sure to put a stop about 3 ft above your bottom bait to keep the slider fm going all the way to the main line swivel. I have used this for a long time to make fixed sliders, no more gadgets to buy as I use bands for releases.

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I use a rubber band hitched on the mainline to keep the slider at the depth I want. I use a snapswivel (with a good ballbering swivel) on both ends. Clip the snap swivel on the mainline and include the loop made by the rubber band (this keeps it from sliding up or down) and snap a spoon on the other (small spoons or light flutter spoons). Sender down, turn up the juice and see what shakes loose.

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The offshore release works well, if you get a fish on the mainlure at the ball you will have to unclip the release and throw it in the water to slide down to the fish, or take it off right away. Hopefully the lure is 10 feet at least above the ball and depending on how far back you had for a lead is say 20 then you have a fish 30 feet from the transom and still have to get the slider off. For that reason I would recommend 20 up and at least a 20 foot lead to give yourself some room to unhook the offshore release.

Sometimes in the fight the release will come off and slide down already, sometimes its off in a heartbeat, but every once in awhile it will tangle up and you need a second to spin it loose.

I dont use sliders if were fishing shallow. Usually only when dropping riggers past about 75 feet or more. Otherwise you have a lure right under the boat with almost no lead and thats gonna take a pretty aggressive king to come get it.

If you run long leads at the ball like 50 to 100 feet, you will have alot of slack to reel up, so if you see a hit and dont think they fish is there....keep reeling! Also sometimes the hits look funny, If the ball is at 120 and the slider is at 70 feet, you will sometimes see the rod jolt, then nothing, then jolt again. The fish hit, slide the line down, then took it off the ball release and now its free.

This all might sound like a pain, just run then if you got room for an extra line and you will pick up some fish on them, with minimal issues. keep them under 6 feet, it doesnt really make a difference how long they are, and there easier to net and work with.

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I've been using the offshore release method as shown above for the past year. It's added quite a few extra fish for me. Typically run a smaller spoon or smaller j plug on it. Don't often use it when I'm going solo, though. If a big king is on the main line it can be tough to release the clip by yourself & keep the king under control. It's best to have a partner available to take it off. They definitely work & add extra fish.

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I have used both the offshore release and the rubber band method. Both work fine. Somebody at one point suggested to run the fixed slider a couple feet above the ball. Same lure on the slider and mainline with the larger version on the slider. If I remember right they called it a MUP rig, or something like that. Logic was that smaller fish follow the bigger fish in a bait school. No clue if that logic holds water. My sliders outfish the mainline about 70/30.

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Be careful with the rubberbands mono etc. They can sure mess up a bilge pump.

They are the only release I use, and I have been since about 1981, befor that we used walker releases, our catch ratio went up when we started using bands, and u never have a dragger on a downrigger they always start the rod bouncing when they smack the bait. No problems with the bilge we just take care to never leave them on the deck.

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Can you just place a rubber band on the line about ten feet up from the ball and not run the line through the rubber band? The slidder couldn't run up any higher past the band and the water would keep it from running down further. That way if you get a fish on the mainlinethe slider will slide down the line without haveing to be taken off. I might try this tommorow. What do you think.

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I like the tried and true older method of the rubber band too, but, I think I'll investigate the newer method too now for fun. If you run out of rubber bands/patience you can always free slide the second lure too, the boats forward movement keeps the lure in the desired place until a hit occurs. How many times have you guys caught fish on both lures on the same rod? Now that's really fun if two big fish hit, a double net at the transom. Thanks for the informative posts.

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I like the tried and true older method of the rubber band too, but, I think I'll investigate the newer method too now for fun. If you run out of rubber bands/patience you can always free slide the second lure too, the boats forward movement keeps the lure in the desired place until a hit occurs. How many times have you guys caught fish on both lures on the same rod? Now that's really fun if two big fish hit, a double net at the transom. Thanks for the informative posts.

iTS A HOOT when u get 2 fresh Kings on the same line It happens at least once every year when the kings are staging in the 70 to 90 fow ran. I run a lot of free sliders but when the fish are concentrated in a small layer of water the rubberband method is the ticket.

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  • 2 years later...

I have had good luck half hitching a rubber band to the downrigger cable then attaching the swivel on the cheater to the main line and to rubber band. The rubber band tied to the cable will keep the cheater leader at the level you set it above the ball. My hook ups jumped to 80% using this method as the band tied to the cable doesn't have the slack as just half hitching to the line. When the fish hits the hook punches through the fishs jaw pops the rubber and then slides down to the ball release. If I know the cheater has been hit I don't wait for it to slide down I immediately tighten down and release it off the ball and take up the slack until I feel the fish.

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There's a misconception that a free slider stays in the middle of the bow in your line. We have been running cameras off our riggers the last couple years and found that after about 10 minutes free sliders work down to about 6 ft above the ball and stay there. I see a lot of posts about fixing sliders 6 ft over ball. That is not needed. The slider will end up there shortly anyway. If you want to target the halfway point in your rigger presentation you are better fixing the slider higher up on your rigger. When fishing 75 down we alway fix a slider 40 foot up. Very effective.

Both fixed and free sliders are deadly on all fish

Just giving a heads up to what really happens with free sliders.

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There's a misconception that a free slider stays in the middle of the bow in your line. We have been running cameras off our riggers the last couple years and found that after about 10 minutes free sliders work down to about 6 ft above the ball and stay there. I see a lot of posts about fixing sliders 6 ft over ball. That is not needed. The slider will end up there shortly anyway. If you want to target the halfway point in your rigger presentation you are better fixing the slider higher up on your rigger. When fishing 75 down we alway fix a slider 40 foot up. Very effective.

Both fixed and free sliders are deadly on all fish

Just giving a heads up to what really happens with free sliders.

Great info Dan, and welcome to the site.

Do you have any good fotage from the cameras uploaded any where?

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I use a half hitched rubber band to the downrigger cable 10 to 20' above the canon ball take the swivel from the leader put your main line and the loop from rubber band into it and snap it closed. When lowering don't put too much pressure on the rod until you get to the depth you want to fish. Then double it over. I also stop at 10' intervals to let the spoon catch up. Being tied to the cable I have increased the hooking percentage as there is no slack as there is with a free slider or a fixed slider that is attached only to the mono.

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