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Where's it go in the spread?


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Just sitting here wishing the temperature was a little warmer and the water a lot softer and got to thinking about what I'm going to run on my first trip out this year. Something struck me, if I'm running a full core and 150 copper, where does the copper go, inside or outside? Now I know that when running multiple boards the deepest line stays closest to the boat, however, what do you do when the shallower line is actually deeper than the deep line where the lines would connect?

Here's my thinking- 150' of copper runs 30' while a full core runs forty. But how deep is the core at 150' out- 20'. Is a fish on the short copper outside going to tangle the lead inside? Shouldn't the copper actually be inside then?

OUCH! I think I just pulled my cerebral cortex. :grin:

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if I'm running a full core and 150 copper, where does the copper go, inside or outside?

If you're running the 45# copper then you can easily run it on the inside, leadcore on the outside board. 300' of lead will pass over 150' the copper on the way to the back of the boat.

If you're running the lighter 32# copper... you'll want to keep them on opposite sides of the boat.

The fish in my avatar came on 150' of 45# this summer. :thumb:

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We run both copper a core off the same side without problems but our standard set is a 300 or 200 foot copper on the inside. A 8 an 6 color with 300 and a 6 and 4 color over the top of a 200 copper. Never a problem. IMHO if you have a 150 copper on the inside even though it has a steaper decent angle as you let the full core or even an 8 color out over the top as you slowly let the core out and slow it down to drop it back the decrease in board speed will cause it to sink deeper in the water, as it crosses you would probibly connect. You can run copper and core on the same side, it works well for us. Try it, if it works, use it.:)

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I would go with the keep em separated plan while in theory you could run the copper inside the core they odds a angry fish is going to follow your rod alignment plan is slim at best. My experience is when a fish grabs a long line he pulls up and away from the tug. I try to keep 50ft between my boards and still have fish crash the whole program with way more separation than you are talking. This is one reason I don't have any short coppers yet and when I do the core that runs closet to them in depth will be removed from the spread. So if I had a 150 copper out the full core would be in the cabin or on the other side of the boat at minimum. One of my plans for this season is to convert 2 of my full cores to 150 coppers add a 450 copper and cut all my other cores down to 5 colors or less then I will run Torpedo divers on them to get the depth I want.

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Ok...

I am going to have 1 350 and 1 300 copper and 2 fulls core 1 5 color 1 7 color

32# blood run copper btw

I was thinking

port side

350 copper

full core of lead

5 color of lead

Starbord

300 copper

full core

7 color

how would everyone run them??

Looks good Dave

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Ok...

I am going to have 1 350 and 1 300 copper and 2 fulls core 1 5 color 1 7 color

32# blood run copper btw

I was thinking

port side

350 copper

full core of lead

5 color of lead

Starbord

300 copper

full core

7 color

how would everyone run them??

I would drop the full cores and put a 200 on the side with the 300 and a 250 on the side with the 350. Then you would have consistent separation and less line to reel in. I use the 45# copper but I am seriously looking at swapping my full cores for 32# copper and going to 5 color or less for my other rods knowing I can add a Torpedo diver or Dive Bomb to them if I need to get deeper. Doing that will end any interaction between setups. But then I can run up to 3 divers per side and could run 4 per side if I ever saw a reason to do it.

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I run a very similar long line setup as Pioneer with copper on the inside and lead on the outside and I have not had an issue doing this yet. Just make sure you have the presentation with the steeper dive curve on the inside. One thing you should watch out for is if you have a ff combo on the inside board and a plug on the outside board since they will change how deep your lines are running. If I do this I make sure the board drops way back before I try and slide it into the outside position.

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Dave, I agree with Pioneer on 300/32 coming over FC might not work. One thing to remember about mixing cores and copper on the same side of boat, you need wider turns. The copper and cores do not take the same paths on turns and can cross without good spacing. This is one reason that we have elimanated all long cores for shorter coppers. I run a 300/45, 300/30, and a 150/45 on 1 side and a 300/45, 200/45 and a 100/45 all the time.

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so hmmmm My main reason for adding copper was to run them with Flasher fly combo's.

What if I added a 2 oz DB to the coppers that would cause them to drop faster with the FF on them?

Then could I run th FC over the top as long as i let it way back to swing it around?

any suggestions would be great

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Wild at heart is right why are u running 32# copper. I do run 45# copper and full cores on the same side of the boat but my coppers are for deeper fish and they do turn differently than lead core. I can run a 300 45# copper and a 10 color and 15 color on the same side of the boat but u gotta spread them out. better to keep the copper full 300 and work up the column with your lead cores.

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so hmmmm My main reason for adding copper was to run them with Flasher fly combo's.

What if I added a 2 oz DB to the coppers that would cause them to drop faster with the FF on them?

Then could I run th FC over the top as long as i let it way back to swing it around?

any suggestions would be great

The 32# copper should dive deeper than the core to begin with so even with the FF combo on the copper you should be able to pass the core over it. Adding a couple ounces of weight would certainly help though. Try drawing it out on paper sometime with a cross section of the water showing depth and lead length of your lures. Doing this has helped me in the past to visualize where my lures are running in the water column.

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I guess for me I would use 32# to replace a core but if you want deep get the 45# which is what I run. A full core with a dive bomb will hit 60ft so is about the same as a 300 of 32#. The sheath on a core makes it behave different than any other line combination. Many feel it triggers fish to bite they could be right I have had days when the fish would smash a lure on a full core but not touch the same lure on a rigger or diver. With the warm water last season 300ft of 45# was deadly in 85 to 110 ft as I could get it to bang the bottom on slow turns very often getting a fish doing it while still trolling fairly fast. So by doing a lazy S pattern I could often drop one on the bottom while yanking the one on the other side up and then reverse it.

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So by doing a lazy S pattern I could often drop one on the bottom while yanking the one on the other side up and then reverse it.

Jim, That's what I call the Drunken Sailor technique. It gets used almost every trip on Priority1 and it's not just for core, copper, and Salmon. The drunken sailor weave is the change up pitch that can make the difference.:) Some guys just drive like that naturally. :lol:

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Dave, 2oz should do the trick. Also the more spacing between boards the better. 90% of my tangles last year were caused by FISH on days when I had to run the boards tighter because of traffic. I dont know why some boats run boards so close together (10 to 20') when not in traffic. I like 50' between them mininum, and running like that is no more of a problem, and you cover more water. Copper is supposed to be a stealth presentation right. I also like long rods for my deep copper, 9'+. You need all the help you can get with copper to pull fish to the surface so you clear other board lines.

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