jsenske1 Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 I have taken my boat in to a "reputable" mechanic, but after 3 attempts I give up. Does anyone have any recommendations on a mechanic in S.H? i would like to take the mechanic for a ride to help resolve the issues? Do the area marinas offer this? let me know. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1mainiac Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 You might try Brian at West Michigan Mobile Marine kind of a long drive for him but it is what he does for a living. 616-677-1919. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishwhisperer Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 I have heard nothing but good things about the one at First Choice Marine. They are an authorized Mercruiser service dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2UNREEL Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Whats your boat doing? I do alot of work myself except for some of the work needing the $10,000 special mercruiser tools. Sometimes you put a couple of people together with fresh ears can track down wierd noises or have been there done that on other mechanical stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTRIEM Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 "$10,000 special mercruiser tools." WHAT??? Glad i've done all my outdrive and engine work without one of those. GTR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsenske1 Posted June 17, 2009 Author Share Posted June 17, 2009 well...at first it was stalling when going from forward to neutral and vise versa, same for reverse. had a new shift cable installed, worked but there was no neutral, it was either foreard or reverse. makes it difficult to dock or put boat on trailer. Had it back in to fix this, that was fixed, now back to stalling and now I have a high idle. I cannot troll below 3.5 mph when I could troll at 2.0 before. I had my carb rebuilt last year (different guy). I also think I have a timing issue. I tried my timing light on wire 1, but it will not work, tried it on my truck and it works, don't get it. Let me know your thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTRIEM Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 For a mercuriser,have you or that mechanic determined that the fwd/rev shiftcable is adjusted proper? (this is cable from helm and cable from engine to outdrive) If you have been having problems the cable could easily be stretched and out of adjustment now.There is an ignition cutout switch under the cable bracket on engine.Check the funtion of the switch,lube w/ electronic spray or whatever.(while engine is running press the switch-engine should die.(is this the "stall" you refer to??)I am assuming your high idle is another issue and will require you to adjust the carb along with checking the timing. On our boat to get the motor to run without loading up and rough idle its a fine line...we use a drift sock to slow the troll and give the prop enough rpm to steer and push effectively.(this after several prop trials)I have the merc service manual,but not here...let me know if you need more info and i will get it.If you plan on doing you own serv.you may want to get 1.my .02 worth.I know this is a frustrating problem 'cause i been there good luck.Also where are you located?Is the boat on a trailer and can be delieverd?GTR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsenske1 Posted June 17, 2009 Author Share Posted June 17, 2009 they have adjusted the cut out as you described. the cable is new. I live south of hastings in delton and yes the boat is on a trailer. prior to all this the idle was fine, now is high and when I get to about 3500 rpms there is what i would call spark knock going on. I don't know what else the noise would be other than that. My understanding is the 2 idle adjustment screws also play a role in the lean/rich mixture. Am i wrong? I should have replace the q-jet with a better carb. Most importanly is the shifting, idle, timing. thanks for your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTRIEM Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Well, 1-wether the cable is new or not(i assume you mean the shift cable from engine to outdrive)any hard or non-shift where you are slamming from fwd to rev can stretch the cable to the point it will not shift.Does the cable from helm to engine operate smooth?Do you have the ability to disconect it and run the lever from the engine to actuate the engine-outdrive cable?If you are not a shadetree repair guy this can be a tough way to learn...2-The quad carb is a good carb for boats IMO,it sounds like you really need to get the timing (spark advance)sorted out.I would not touch the carb untill i knew the ignition is fine and dialed in.Is the distributor ok? worn,wires,coil,etc...For what its worth we replaced the orig. ignition years ago for an after market,not cheap but it did solve the ignition problems that we had.Is this an alpha1,bravo? hp? engine?GTR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1mainiac Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Idle and spark knock likely the same issue you have a vacuum leak most likely. With the engine running spray some carb cleaner around the entire intake and base of carb if you hear a engine change you have sprayed the leaking area. The engine will not idle down if it is sucking air and high speed spark knock is often due to running lean also from sucking air. The only way I know of to not have a neutral is if your gears in the lower are galled up or sticking so you must have a neutral somewhere just not where it is supposed to be likely you have a misadjustment between the neutral safty switch and the shift interupter you have to get neutral in the right spot first. then forward and reverse and shift interupter adjustments from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTRIEM Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 Yep ,1maniac's advice is good-i re-read your post about having the carb done. definatly check for vac.lines off/leaking. When the motor is on and you shift to fwd...then pull lever back to neut.-does it stay in fwd? same for rev.? meaninig your outdrive is not in N when the lever is in the n position. If your stalling when you go from N to R like backing away from the dock... that is probably the cutout switch and/or the modual gizzmo that stops the ignition. I'm no marine mechanic,I fixed a similar problem on our boat.Not sure if your looking to repair yourself or just doing your homework to keep tabs on the mechanic.I know a couple guys that do work out of thier garages,in the cassopolis area,but saving money and getting back on the h2o fast usually aint compatible goals. hope you get it goin soon. Later, GTR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Pole Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 The timing light not working may be the clue were looking for, the light fires when it senses the voltage in the plug wire....sounds like a spark issue.possibly not firing on cyl. no#1, bad cap? or possibly a bad plug not allowing ignition to happen? this could also explain the detonation. just a thought Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2UNREEL Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Jeff, this is all great advice. I have a Mercruiser 260 in my boat probbably what you have in yours. I have ajusted my timing, replaced my shift cable and gone through the carb ordeal. To me it sounds like you have an air leak at the carb.. Don't adjust the idle air screws that carb should of been flow tested and set if it was rebuilt at a reputable carb place. You may have either the wrong carb gasket or a leak in the one you have. This may be you high idle prob. Also your shift issue sounds fixable Your cables are just out of ajustment along with your engine cut out switch. Here is a link on how to adjust it that helped me out. You need a few people to help but it will get you in the ball park for before a water test. http://www.sterndrives.com/supplies/mdtips02.html Your timing issue to me sounds like you need to check your plugs wires and cap n rotor to make sure all is well like what Tad pole said. I am major busy this summer but I may be able to help you out some evening and get this wipped so you don't need to dump any more coin into shady mechanics. I am no pro but I have gone through alot of what you are going through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTRIEM Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 2unreel, thanks for posting that link.never hurts to have another set of directions to reference in the toolbox.GTR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsenske1 Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Thanks to everyone posting to help me out. The cables are new, I do believe it is occurring at the cut-out switch. Not sure on how to adjust that. I have replaced the coil and put a differnet ignition system (kind that goes in the rotor). I have not checked for a vaccumm leak. Do I just check around the carb? where else? I probally should replace the wires and i just replaced the plugs. Unreel- your offer to help me is great. I would like to take you up on your offer only if you have the time. I can meet you in S.H sometime. I would like to get this resolved before the Holland Tourny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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