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Look up the Klincher setup for the Moor Sub Troll same setup will work on a Depth Raider and lots less issues. It is how I am setting mine up this year I only lost one probe in 3 years but at the price of probes 1 is too many.

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The black plastic part is what is left of the klincher after you cut the original swivel off of it (snip the wire and hacksaw out the rivet). The you re-rig with another swivel, screw, washer, nuts and ring terminal that you provide.

If you search for "klincher" on google, you can find a few places with them. I got my at Cabelas in Hammond. Works great as shown. -- Bud

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I use the the regular klinchers, just wondered if you could buy them like that for a probe or have to modify one. Thanks for the info on how to modify it. I'll get my hacksaw out and go to work.

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While you are on the subject, I bought a Depth Raider, and after about 5 trips, the coating is coming off the wire up about 6' from the ball. Now I am only getting it to work if I keep the ball at less than 50' down. Any suggestions? I would hate to have to break apart my connection to the blacks release and cut back the coated downrigger wire every 4 or 5 trips.

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I've got a depth raider too. If your coating is rubbed off the cable, it will affect it's performance. I don't know if you can get some kind of rubber dip like they use on down rigger balls to save it. Otherwise, you need to cut off the bad part of the cable. You might want to check your rigger pulleys and guides to fix where ever the abrasion is coming from. I bet you have some rough or sharp spot rubbing on the cable. I don't have issues with the cable coating coming off on mine.

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Tony I have been thru several cables on mine in the 4 years I have had it get a Dremel tool and the small buffer and deburr all of your pullies. The coating is fairly tough but won't take much iratation to start it peeling. I now buy the cable in 500ft rolls put 250 on and use it till it is bad then take it off and reverse it I have not found any way to repair it once it peels. Also check all your connections mine works down past 100ft with regular cable and when this last cable gives out completely I am putting regular cable back on and living with reduced performance. With the lost probe last year and regular cable replacement I have more into kepping it working than I paid for it.

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I use the the regular klinchers, just wondered if you could buy them like that for a probe or have to modify one. Thanks for the info on how to modify it. I'll get my hacksaw out and go to work.

Actually I think Moor sells them ready to install one other option is to bolt the probe on to the Klincher and you get rid of one more connection that can fail. I used my Dremel tool to grind off the rivet head so I did not even wreck the swivel only took about 3 min to do it.

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I have not found any way to repair it once it peels.

Jim-

I use liquid electrical tape to patch sections of coated cable that are starting to peel. I also use this to supplement the waterproof 3M tape that Moor supplies to wrap the connection.

liquid_electrical_tape.jpeg

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I did find after inspecting the end pulley that it did have nicks and cuts in it, so I swapped it with another pullery off from a different downrigger. I used the liquid electrical tape (2 coats) to cover the bare wire. I will let you know how that works out. Where do you buy your 500' spools of coated wire?

Also, I have found that sidecutters work well to crimp, providing you are using the heavy crimps.

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I have a dumb quetion. Why would you want 500' of cable? The Moore subtroll starts to fade out after 150' and quits reading over 200'. These are not exact numbers but there is a cut off point. So Im just curious what you want that mutch cable for.

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I can't say what I pay for mine but I get the 500 ft spools from Captain Gary's and it was well under a 100 bucks. I buy the 500ft roll cause I can get 2 250ft cables out of it I can then reverse the 250 and use the end that has never been wet. Also my thought fro deep summer fishing is what good does it do to have a probe that works down to 200ft that only comes with a 200ft cable mening you will be down to your last wrap or 2 on the spool to ever get it that deep. With the cost of probes cannon balls cables and connectors I am never letting mine out to a empty spool. Also with 180ft out and a 12lb ball and the probe it is only down 135 at 2.5 mph surface speed. So unless I can get rid of the Blowback I doubt I could ever get the ball below 200 even with 250 on the spool. I have 400ft of cable on my rear riggers so I can send them as deep as I will ever need.

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Have not made a list conditions change every day I have a GTM40 and every now and then I clip it on a ball or slide it down one of my diver rods before I pull it just to see what actual temp and depth it is running at. I wish they still made them I would buy a couple more. Clip it on the rigger cable of your deepest ball and send it down it gives temp readouts for every 5 ft all the way down, and tells you what the actual depth is when it stops going down. I can tell you my 300 copper only goes down 53ft at 2.5 mph with a clean spoon and the GTM 40 on it.

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Well Jim, you are the master of information. How about giving me a list of actual depths for cannonballs @ 2.5 mph? Say from 70 feet down to 200.

Thanks,

Tony

just take a floating protractor and measure the angle of youre rigger cable...take the ft of cable you have out and that is youre hypotonuse....with these 2 dimensions you can figure youre actual depth:grin:

say youre rigger is blown back at 45 degrees...just get youre calculater and hit sine of 45....that equals.707106781 multiply that by youre ft out...say 180...now you have .707106781 x 180=127.279 ft down...that way it doesnt matter how much youre cannonball weighs ..just measure blowback..

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Pretty close Don would be dead on if the cable went straight thru the water but if you ever get a chance to see it underwater is is more like a french curve going down to the ball. And my sceintific calc is not waterproof. However I have used your method before and it is pretty darn close esp in shallower water without much temp change. If we could only find a way to get that darn water to stop changing density with temp life would be so much simpler that and them darn currents that leave us with differant segments of line moving differant speeds thru changing water density. This is your fault Don you used hypotonuse in a sentence and now I am getting all technical. back to just fishing i hope they start biting again soon.

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i know it seems ridiculous that was kind of the point:grin:but it does get you pretty close....i should elaborate a little...cosine would be better to use becouse if you measure 20 degrees you would have to subtract that from 90 and use 70 as youre sine...where as if you use cosine you can use the actual 20 degrees....youre absolutely right about the basicly a french curve in the water...which is why free sliders dont fall to the bottom lure but im sure you could get pretty close in the shallower water

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