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In-Line Planer Boards and Worn Pins


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all right thanks mike...i think im gonna try to make a dozen up just to have on the boat.

Its hard(especially if your hands are wet) to grab the bare stainless pin to pull. Put some sort of air line tubing over the end of it to grab. ;)

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Its hard(especially if your hands are wet) to grab the bare stainless pin to pull. Put some sort of air line tubing over the end of it to grab. ;)

All right thanks again mike, i think you just gave me a new project in class i am going to put the pins then try to make a cast with CNC and shoot hot plastic into just to get see if i can .

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To make a groove in a pin chuck the pin in a drill motor. Use a small file to cut the groove. If the groove is wide use a 1/16 cut off wheel in an angle grinder to cut the groove. We did a lot of similar stuff on construction jobs but didn't have a lathe. There are a lot of ways to skin a cat. Use what you have.:)

That's a great tip, I'm going to give making a set of pins a try.

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I'm in the market for about 6 of those stainless pins if you get to the stage where you can sell a few. Great idea Mark.

Also like the idea of turning the release 180 degrees. Looks like that should work great. I'll be switching mine around before the first trip out!

Thanks for the great info.

Duane

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They have some for sale in Saugatuk at Lakeshore Outfitters with a 90degree bend in them (makes them easier to pull). I replaced all mine' date=' but they are like $5-$7 each. Probably worth the project if you have the means.[/quote']

Not much of a project to save $5-$6 a pin. Buy a stick of 3/16 SS welding wire file some grooves and put a bend on top.:)

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  • 3 months later...

The Church tackle company came out with the revrsed clip about 2 yrs ago, the guys at Bretts Place on Ebay sent me a couple when I had questioned the slip issue on braid. they do help stop the slip. I do remove my boards when running copper and Lead core makes for a better fight and less strain on the tackle, Church boards adapt well to this and I have been doing it for several years. When a fish hits u point the rod tip at the board to keep it fm diving on you and it comes to the boat quickly un hook it and u r fighting your fish without the added weight and drag of the board.

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I just made new pins out of 1/8 brass rod, (Couldn't find any stainless anywhere local) Cut them to length, chuck them up in a drill, I used a hacksaw blade to cut the clip groove while spinning it in the drill.

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  • 1 year later...

I have also made mine from 1/8" rod. Believe it or not, it takes me about 2 minutes start to finish including the 90* bend that is the same every time.

I also make them for the TX-44's, they are a little longer.

I don't get out enough to have the line cut into the stock pins, but I was tired of breaking the tops off:mad: replacing wasn't a hard job as long as I was not being tossed around in rough seas trying to keep track of that little retaining clip! With the metal pins that is no longer an issue at all because they just don't break.

If anyone is intrested, shoot me a p.m. I will only charge for the cost of the rod and actual shipping, usually about $1.50.

A pic of my pins is in the gallery.

I also have a great tip for board storage you will like! I'll get that on here in a few days after I get some pic's.

Dave.

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My Quick Release idea for board storage to avoid damage to the release arm. On and off in 2 seconds! When you cut into the screw holes with sidecutters, make the resulting opening @ the holes slightly smaller than the screw diameter and this will allow the arm to "snap" into place. Add a screw on the end to keep the arm with the board when stored. If you cut the slots too big, you can go to the next larger screw size. This has worked for a couple seasons for me without losing a board. Periodic screw adjustments might be needed after many times on and off.

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