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CITM

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Posts posted by CITM

  1. I don't have any recent experience with chamber machines but I bought a Cyclone (similar to but much better than food saver) from Kent Butcher's Supply in Grandville and I'm very happy with it. They have several chamber machines in their showroom, I would highly recommend going there and talking with them. Very knowledgeable and of course it's always nice to buy local.

  2. Same here - I run regular divers on the high's and mags on lows whether I'm using wire or braid for high's. I run the big rings on the high divers though, or a Walker mag with a standard weight in it.

    There are days when the currents screw things up and I can't get 2 out on a side without tangling them. Could be a function of the big rings on the high's but it doesn't happen very often.

  3. moneypit,

    Straight from the fishing managers mouth. The grandville location will no longer have a fishing department. It will be called Gander Mountain gun World.

    I'd take that as good info then. I thought I was talking to a manager but maybe not.

  4. I have ran a chute rigger with an I/O for several years without any issues. Turn it 45 degrees when setting lines and when bringing it up if it's rough. And when netting feisty fish. Lots of guys with straight inbaords do the same thing when netting. I use a 4' boom but have even used a 3' without issue, just makes me nervous that someone will forget to turn it when bringing the weight up. I would be lost without the chute rigger because its a good gauge of whether things are running straight or not.

  5. I think the original question was "do you use flourocarbon line or flourocarbon leader (material)".

    I use Seaguar InvizX flourocarbon line, 20# for leadcore, copper and rigger leaders, and 40# for flies. I tried the Seaguar Red Label for leaders on long lines toward the end of the season and had a lot of breakoffs.

  6. It appears from the bottom two pictures that the old paint had fallen off before, you can see similar patterns to the flaking paint you are getting right through the new paint. It very well could be an issue with the old paint, likely prep from what you are saying, maybe just junk paint? Seems like someone that knew what they were doing would have recognized that there was an issue and recommended that you start from scratch rather than paint over it.

  7. Back to the original question.

    Location is important, I'll travel up to 100 miles or so but that's about it. My boat is trailerable, but the cost, time and hassle still adds up.

    It must be a two day tournament.

    Payouts are important. An average tournament will cost me $900 or so, we need a reasonable chance of winning some money to help defray the cost.

    Format is important, I might fish local "weigh 5" tournaments but no way will I travel very far for them. The format I like the most right now is Ludington, which is catch 20, weigh 10 (for AM) and at least 3 of those must be trout.

    And lastly, I'm a lot more likely to enter if it's a well run tournament. That starts with a quick, thorough captain's meeting, clear, enforceable rules, efficient weigh-in, electronic scoring (nice but not necessary), etc.

  8. Yup - reel the swivel right up to the tip of the rod and NEVER pull the wire out with your hands, always leave the swivel at the end of the rod unless it has the weight of a dipsey on it.

    Not saying you shouldn't check to see what's going on with your rods though.

  9. If you're running at the manufacturer's recommended RPM's at WOT, you're probably better off adding trolling bags (or using bigger ones if you already have bags) to slow down. Bags help stabilize the boat in rough seas too, that, in addition to allowing your engine to run at higher rpms, helps your autopilot work better.

    If your RMP's are low at WOT, you'll gain about 200-4000 RPM's for every inch of pitch you go down. Prop design makes a big difference too, and even the same basic design between manufacturer's (although probably not much difference at trolling speeds).

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