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AllenW

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Posts posted by AllenW

  1. I used to stay at the Whispering Pines motel just out of Silver Bay, they appear to be out of business now, web site seems down and phone number no longer is for them.

    Anybody heard what's happening there?

    Also am now looking for something similar to stay at while we fish from Silver Bay to Duluth, reasonably safe and priced, any suggestions?

    TIA

    Al

     

  2. Your probably right, I remembered the bending of the arm upward and adding the ring to help bring the board forward, it worked great when I run a lot of colors, (6-10) and long lines.

    Like I mentioned, I thought I made the thread a favorite, but must have not.

    Thanks.

    al

     

     

  3. Maybe I'm getting old, but seems I remember a post about modifying the off shore boards by adding a notebook ring binder to the anchor point, moving the lead weight forward and relocating a eye screw, also maybe mods on another brand.

    Post was older and I thought I made it a favorite, evidently not.

    Anybody remember the thread?

    TIA

     

    Al

     

     

  4. Even though the counter isn't needed, it isn't a negative. That's the route I'd go. I wouldn't go to a saltist strictly for the reason of no LC.

    I have a Tekota 800LC with 400' of copper. The LC has no real purpose for this setup but I got a great deal on it.

    Ya, your prob right, did see Sealine has a high cap, 6 to 1 levelwind for about $110, but may as well get the LC sealine, good point, thanks.

    Al

  5. I am trying to find a high capacity, high retrieve ratio (6 to 1) reel that will hold

    appox 100 yards of 20# braid as backer, 10 colors of Suffix 832 leadcore and about a 100 yards of 14# mono.

    I believe the Diawa SG57LC5 has the 6 to 1 and will hold all the line, I do not need the line counters, so looking for a non linecounter reel and have come up with a Diawa Saltist STTLW30HA or STTLW40HA reel.

    The Saltist are more than I want to spend, but are sweet reels and I think I can spurge for at least one.

    I'm not sure which one to buy though, the 30 seems size wise to be the best fit for trolling for trout/salmon but unsure if it will hold the line I want, the 40 will hold it for sure but may be to big for what I'm doing with it.

    I usually just run spoons and hardbaits with this set up for the most part.

    Maybe I should just stick with the Sealine but if the 30 will work, it'd be a nice set up.

    Any thoughts??

    TIA

    al

  6. Ooooppppsss. Allen I guess I'm too late. Not only should you worry about length but diameter. When fishing deep, say past 90' or so you need to minimize rigger sway back. I use 12lb balls all the time n when I bought my Canon 10 riggers I replaced the cable with .024" diam, 7strand SS wire rope from Mc Master Carr. Think it is only about 7 cents a foot. I think I have 250' on each.

    Also, to further reduce swayback we use braided line on the riggers with a 40-50' mono leader. I use Cortland Spectron Blackspot 35# braid. I use this same braid on my dipseys.

    My two cents worth.

    We'll see what happens, I doubt I'll go much past 200 foot, but it was on sale and I got 300 foot for close to the same price.

    I might pick up some from Carr, at least for the rigger with the Fish hawk on it, thanks.

    I am using either 10# balls or the torpedo style at about 12#'s now, if I start to get to much bow back I'll try the braided line, I have my lead core reels using a braided backer now.

    al

  7. I don't know why you would ever have to go down 300 for trout on superior. If what you had served you well go with it. Or bump up to 200 ft.

    Still new at this, have been getting better, but I see bottom fish at deeper than 150 foot and wonder if I'm missing anything.

    Al

  8. I'm looking at replacing the 150' cable on my 2 cannon Mag 10 riggers, I see 200,300 and 400' cables on sale, any suggestions on length I should look at??

    I fish mostly the north shore of Superior, is there a depth maximum I should consider?

    It was suggested that 300 foot is max for trout, I don't know?

    TIA

    al

  9. I fish Lake Superior a lot I don't run anything heavier than 10 color lead. My inside boards are not modified and there walleye boards, they handle it no problem. My lighter setups that I want to run farther out I run opti boards with a or16in rear they pull lighter stuff farther out than the walleye boards but don't handle as much weight. My farthest out boards I run off shores with the lockjaw releases front or16 back they could interchange with the opti boards run the same but like front clip on optis better but like a front clip on my outside boards that doesn't slip down braid. If I was just running one set of boards and 10 colors was heaviest I would run it would be walleye boards. Next year I'm gonna try the SAMs pro releases on a couple sets of offshore boards thing that would be the best setup for our spring fishing on outside boards. I have a set of tx 44's I seldom run because everyone hates to reel them in, you definitely don't want to run on lighter setups. I've converted a couple people to inline boards and they always get the walleye boards because they were the ones they like best but are disappointed when they use them on their boats for outside lines with heavier stuff. I run a 300 copper and heavier a lot but I always run it down the chute, if I fished on Lake Michigan more I would run it out on boards to avoid tangles but our fish don't run much. I don't really need the lockjaw releases except on powerpro set ups when there's not much weight but a lot of line in water. The board ends up sliding down and chewing up releases, don't need them for mono or leadcore with power pro backer. Probably would of been way cheaper if I'd known about 1 maniacs mods when I started, but I'm set up now. I want to try the SAMs pro real eases for our spring fishing with flat lines would make it easier to get our small coho in on outside boards.

    I found the Sam's were very easy to adjust, you needed a screwdriver would be my only complaint

    Worked well for braid or mono, don't use copper so don't know how that works.

    With 10 colors in white cap waters before, the off shores sat pretty tail heavy in the water and were hard to tell when a small fish hit, least for me they were, we were in rough water this time and between the lighter set drags and the boards being more level it worked better for us.

    Al

  10. Just an update, I took two of my off shores and moved the rear eyelet to the back and used the OR 16 with the pin as suggested, installed the sam's pro release and heated and bent the anchor for that release upwards, then removed the lead weights, and cut out the little divider to move the weights forward.

    With 6 and 10 colors both rode level and did move further out by a little bit.

    Much easier to see when a fish strikes.

    I used a split ring a bit smaller than a half dollar to attach the release, if I use a bigger split ring will the planer boar come up even more towards the front of he boat, they still lag a bit further behind than you pictures here?

    I also loosened the drag up a bit to where it was just holding and that helped on them small fish that I used to drag all over.. :)

    Anyway, THANKS MUCH!!

    They are much easier to deal with.

    Oh...hit 14 Lakers for the two days out, biggest 26", lost about 4 and had 4 foot waves on Friday so our day was cut short, slowly getting better, thanks in a big part to you guys.

    Al

  11. First off there is no buy this and run it unless you match your setup to what the board wants to do. So you will find if you want to pull a lot of different setups you will need a lot of different boards. My boat has Z Boards, Ziggy boards, Off Shore yellow boards and Church TX44 boards on it. I chose the board based on what I am running for light setups I run the Off Shore boards which I have made a few mods to. Deep setups require big boards so for 300 and longer copper I use my TX44 boards. Generally most of my setups will run on my Z Boards. I am not going to tell you what to buy but I can tell you how to improve nearly any of them. Z Boards, Yellow Bird and Ziggy boards are easy to run and tune but do not let you move the weight so you have to match the board size to the setup. Running too much board only means more trouble getting them in and fighting the board can cost you fish.

    I run mostly just leadcore or snap weights off my boards, I'll stay with the offshore's and do the mods on them and see what happens, thanks.

    Al

  12. I have 20 boards on my boat and several different setups on them. I do not run any of the Church Walleye boards I had some several years ago and sold them in a yard sale. I know many will tell you what a great job they do for them but to be honest I doubt any of them have ever seen what can be done with a better board setup. The Church Walleye board is designed for walleye fishing which is slow speeds and shallow diving setups generally working the top 25ft of water. My fall Steelhead spread can be 800ft wide with boards 400ft out on each side. You can't get enough line on a reel to get a stock Walleye board that wide. I have modded nearly every common board out there my personal fav is still the Z Boards which are no longer available. Like I said in my other post is is a simple geometry problem the board wants to run straight thru the water it also needs to be vertical and level so it can work. Once you have the board running correctly the only improvement is to increase the angle from the front release to the rear. This is done by lengthening the front arm so the line angle thru the releases is greater and this forces the board to run wider because the board wants to run straight so it must get wider to setup.

    So if you have to pick a board that is available, what would it be?

    tia

    al

  13. Set the drags on your reels just a little tighter than what it takes to keep line from leaking during straight line trolling. You should hear an occasional tick from the clicker reels on the outside board rods in a turn. With the drags set that way the boards should pull backwards and you should hear the clicker as drag is pulled on the reel with most hits without the Tattle Flags. Also watch the board position as on small fish they will get pulled out of formation but might not take drag.

    Been hesitant to loosen drag to much, not everybody I fish with understands 12 or 14# test and how much drag you can add, but I'll try loosening them up a bit more and see, been trying to split the difference between normally set drag and drag light enough to tell when a bit hits.

    Line to the planer board has been in the water for a fair piece of it, I'll raise the rod tip and that should help.

    I run a 20 foot Larson and fish usually with just two of us, rarely three.

    MN has a 2 line max so I don't get the spread out you guys do.

    Even Wisc with three lines means normally 6 lines out, 2 rigger, and two boards each side, leadcore on a couple, snap weights on one or two and maybe just a diving hardbait on one of then.

    The few boards and different set ups make it hard for me to tell when a board is out of place, more time on the water and better (mod) boards should help.

    Al

  14. I have been running the rods low in the mount, didn't know they should be raised, I'll change that next time out. :)

    Bigger fish no problem, many times they'll pull the boards down or pull line out, it's those small 2# or so fish I have trouble with.

    I'll dump the tattle flags and springs for now and see how this works for me, sounds like I won't need them.

    Got a good start on correcting the problems I'm having, thanks all.

    al

  15. You should be able to pull a 300 copper or full core behind a walleye board with no modifications. Even in rough water. Granted they could run better with mods, but you shouldn't be having major issues.

    We did just that this weekend in Frankfort during the Benzie Frenzy. Day one started in solid 2-3' waves and subsided to 2'. No issues whatsoever with the boards. More than 300 copper were pulled on the bigger TX-44's.

    Forget the flags. Watch for the boards to fall back or loosen your drags.

    Thanks, but as of now I don't run copper, so I don't know how that relates to the lead core I'm using.

    Will the Offshore boards do 10? colors?

    Seasons almost over for us, but I'll pick up a couple new boards and do the AA mod to them and see if they work better.

    Wonder if I should raise the anchor point as the blood mod suggests too?

    I've been using the flags as I seem to hit a lot of small trout and if they run level, it seems to work well.

    Once I go from spoons to lead core though all bets are off.

    Hard to tell bites in rough water when the board is mostly under water. :)

    Thanks.

    Al

  16. First off you should be able to run a 300 copper on the yellow Off Shore boards. That said there are tricks to make them work better. 1st move the rear release to the end of the board about 3/4 in up from the bottom. 2nd take the release off the arm and add a 1in split ring between arm and the release. 3rd move the weight further forward you need to take a dremel tool or something and remove the partition so you can slide the weight all the way forward. Use a OR16 on the rear and use whatever front release works best for you on the front. Moving the weight forward will make the board dive on short cores so only do a couple boards for long lines.

    Not sure how much weight/drag copper puts on a board, but with this mod can I run up to 10 colors and not have the board go tail down like it does now?

    I have one set (2) for walleyes and one that I have a heavier spring on for the tattle flags, but even the heavier springs are ok for spoons but not more than maybe 3 colors.

    The Blood Run mods are mine and Greg's combined work I showed him several of my modded boards and he blended the changes with some of his own. The difference in how they run is amazing. There are 3 angles involved in making a board run correctly.

    1st the board angle is set by the angle from the front release to the rear release subtract this angle from 90 and it will give you a idea of how the board will track. Most stock boards have a angle of around 15 to 20 deg this means the board will run back at a 70 to 75 deg angle off the boat. Making the front release arm longer increases this angle and makes the board run wider.

    2nd the board needs to run vertical in the water this is adjusted by raising or lowering the front release. If the release is too high the board will lean in and skip to low and it will lean out and dig and dive.

    3rd angle is getting the board to sit level in the water this is adjusted by moving the weight too much front weight the board dives too much rear and the nose is up and it won't track correctly.

    ""In addition to the Jim and Gregg's setup techniques in the BloodRun blog, I would recommend viewing this YouTube how-to that the guys over at Anglers Avenue made on setting up the Offshore boards to stay on the line but not slide. Might be a very good way to improve your setups.

    ""

    Comparing the two methods, it seems for me anyway, the AA mod might be the easiest for me to start with, not sure plus's or minus's or either but it looked simpler..maybe?

    Just wondering with the Sams release sticking out a bit more with the board come further forward, I'm having trouble try to get the boards to come forward like the pictures I see. ?

    Wanna thank ya all, lots of good info on this forum.

    al

  17. Thanks all, first I don't have copper in my tackle box, mono or braid is what I normally use.

    Maybe someday, but still learning how to fish with what I have.

    I will try to find the mods to the boards, as now they sit so low in the water that windy days they get hard to tell if a fish is on or not, especially the small ones.

    I still like the idea of using a mast and maybe rubber band releases, at least at times.

    Hard to run and gun with then, but there's some longer trolling runs along the southern north shore of Superior.

    Still playing with the springs on the flags, one spring just won't do walleyes and trout/salmon. :)

    Found the mods, I think I see one of the problems, I'm using the off shore walleye sized boards and he's is I think using the next size up, like a tx44, maybe?

  18. I'm currently running the yellow off shore in line planer boards.

    They work ok for spoons, hardbaits and such, but when I go to 5+ colors of leadcore they start to lose the battle.

    The TX44 boards are bigger but I don't like fighting the fish and the bigger board.

    The masted set up I have gets to be a bit much for the few lines I run, usually one or two boards per side, so I'm thinking of a board about half the size of the dual board Riveria's I have now.

    Thinking single board, maybe easier to use considering 2 lines is about all I'd run on each board...maybe??

    When I have ran the masted board it was nicer to just fight the fish, but smaller boards would be nice in the 20 boat I have for storage and use.

    Anybody?

    tia

    Al

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