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Fishme00

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Posts posted by Fishme00

  1. I troll alot on Cayuga Lake and the areas I fish have steep contours all along the shoreline so it is hard to test anything other than 0 or 1 settings. it could be 20ft shallower inside and 20ft deeper outside your path where a 2 or 3 setting is running. Not alot of flat depth until you get 120ft or so...a little deep to test the divers. I will have to try these dispy tests on Ontario this next season.

  2. Does anyone think that running a fish hawk TD behind the dipsy to monitor depth is as accurate as running them to bottom? I picked up one last year because I dont have a temp probe on my boat. It monitors temp and depth every 5 feet. So if I want to check just water temps I put it down on the rigger and bring it back up and scroll through the depth/temp data. I used it to determine depth on leadcores with dive bombs attatched with x amount of line out. The unit is alot heavier than a spoon so I wonder if it is giving me deeper depths than I am actually running with lures. I guess the only way to see if it is close is by doing both tests and matching them up. thanks

  3. I think using both charts make sense. It has to fall in there somewhere. I was also thinking that running a #1 with a mag ring next to a #1 with a regular ring will help spread things out just a little because of the different angles of attack they will have. The gears of war are turning, and I cant wait to get them in the water. Thanks for the advice guys

  4. I just picked up some magnum rigs for dipsy divers and was wondering if anyone had an idea how much they change the depth on a #1 dipsy? I have never run the #3 magnum diver to see how much deeper they are running. I know that they have a larger weight in them than the #1.

    If anyone has a rule of thumb to get me started it would be great. Once I have some time i can run some tests with the little fish-hawk depth probe, but wanted to have an idea going into the early fishing season. thanks.

  5. i use football shaped weights with fins and have blacks on top but also run the scotty power clips sometimes. When I run above 60ft i use the scotties and when i am deeper I use the blacks. I think my scotties are mini's so they dont hold for me when i go past 60ft. The extended cord and clip shows shakers best. I have tried bands on the blacks but never had luck with them, probably because I never stuck with it (bands might have been crap too). I grew up using blacks and feel most comfortable with them but wanted to try some new stuff too. GOOD LUCK

  6. biggest king i ever boated on ontario was a 35lb August beauty and it was on 8lb trilene XT. Had to clear the rods but would have anyways because it was big. For some reason we had rods on the boat that came out from spring planerboard fishing with that light stuff on it (i think it was my fault, i was only 14 at the time and wasnt paying attention). Caught a few kings that weekend on the light line. checking the line for knicks is a must. I think the benefit of less drag on the thin line helps and if you have the drags set right you are ok...nobody said it would be easy, just that it would get fish on the line!

  7. I dont run meat too often but I usually catch a bunch of sawbellies in the early summer on sabaki rigs and keep them for meat. I also use smelt in the smaller clip style bait heads. The smelt rigs have been deadly on big lakers.

  8. I always see alot of talk on convectors (good talk). I just assumed they are a good reel for core and copper. If the drag is smooth and the frame is tight I certainly consider them. I am down with having extra money for lures and line. I still troll away with old shimanos used in the 80's by my grandfather. They are starting to feel the test of time. I dont think I have ever owned an okuma reel...might be time to start. Thanks as always.

    I bought a pair of earings for my girlfriend for christmas, you would think she could have got me a pair of reels...

  9. Hey guys, looking to update a pair of downrigger reels b4 next season. I was eyeballing the saltist linecounter as a option. I wanted to consider a better reel that has solid antireverse and a good drag...maybe take Keating up on his light line tactic advice.

    Does anyone use the saltist reels? or if there is a great reel for downriggers that would be suggested? thanks

  10. I made one once using colorado blades, plastic shad, and a bunch of stout wire. I designed it to troll under the surface in the propwash to "call" fish into the spread in the spring. It trolled great but I found it hard to justify such a trainwreck behind a pole that could be fishing a proven productive lure. Now it sits in the bottom of the boat... But I still liked the idea.

  11. i have always been more comfortable with black too. If it has fins on it you could try different color tapes on the side and see if they preffer some added flash. I would think you could add these on the water if you wanted to change up the color on the fly.

  12. I have been having super good luck with sliders in the finger lakes this season. I have used fixed sliders with some luck but mostly free line. Do you guys clip free sliders on while sending the ball down or after it is all set? On the back of my boat I have almost gone in the drink trying to get a slider clipped on the mainline, because the lines are tight in the release. Wear a PFD!!! but its still worth the extra fish.

  13. I have one offshore for the starboard and now this walleye board for the port... I am not married to one manufacturer. But i do like the speed with the pin on church boards...1-0 church tackle...the game aint over. I would think that offshore will be putting some new designs or sizes out soon, inlines are blowing up like the backstreet boys!

  14. I started with a full core the 1st year I got into leadcore trolling and trolled it as far or as short as I thought I wanted to be. Each year after I have added a new color setup for different depths. It has "eased" me into running that type of rig without emptying the bank. Having different lengths of lead on separate rods is the best way to do it but can take up alot of room and burn alot of cash.

    Having backer on the back of the leadcore increases the action when you let the whole leadcore into the water and 10-20 feet behind the board.

  15. I just picked up a Fishhawk TD unit and was wondering if anyone has tested it much? It is a small unit that attatches to the rigger or a line and tracks the depth and temp every 5ft. It is a bit heavier than I thought it would be and i am wondering how accurate it would be on tracking my depth of leadcore, divebombs, and various dipsey setups? just looking for feedback i am going to run some tests with it this weekend. thanks guys.

  16. I use a rubber band hitched on the mainline to keep the slider at the depth I want. I use a snapswivel (with a good ballbering swivel) on both ends. Clip the snap swivel on the mainline and include the loop made by the rubber band (this keeps it from sliding up or down) and snap a spoon on the other (small spoons or light flutter spoons). Sender down, turn up the juice and see what shakes loose.

  17. 1 wire dipsy, 3 braid dipsy, 2 riggers, 2 leadcores (2 & 3 color for early season and 5 & 10 in the summer). running off a 19ft carolina skiff seachaser...its all i can handle with the lack of rod storage. I love my dipsy's.

  18. have had luck ripping heavy jigging spoons in the Fingerlakes and in the St. Lawrence when fish are deeper that 60ft. Walleye and Lakers. lots of luck with a 1.5oz head and white super fluke or a paddle tail shad body also. Using a thin diameter braid is key for getting down in the 100 - 120ft range and still effectively setting the hook. The biggest Lakers seem to come off bottom on jigs anymore.

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