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DangerDan

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Posts posted by DangerDan

  1. No hits eh, so what if I threw in all of the fishing gear? We're talking a lot of gear. Probably 5 or 6 bags of spoons, flashers, flys and body baits. A dozen or so dipsys, combinations of bouncers, weights etc. Everything from walleye, skams to salmon along with boards and a dozen of different rod/reel combos. Truly everything you would ever need plus some.

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  2. Kicker is a 20hp 2 stroke throttle at the motor. A photo shows the use of a separate tank mounted on the step ladder. I'll have to get back to you on engine hours. I have it written down but I'm not near home at the moment. O/D has been gone through when I bought the boat to assure it was sound. The mech said it was factory fresh. It's been maintained by a single mech since I've had the boat back in 04.

  3. 100_0517.jpg

    $6,000 obo

    This well outfitted boat is a steal at this price.

    Includes

    Humminbird 981c side imaging FF

    Cannon speed/temp

    Magellan GPS/Chart Plotter 5†display

    Raymarine VHF radio/ Shakespeare Galaxy 8’ antenna

    B.E.P. 3-switch battery system w/auto sensor, separate start and house circuits 1 start Batt. /2 house Batts.

    Fishing Arch w/12 rod rocket launcher

    4 Big Jon electric down riggers w/gimbals

    Kenwood AM/FM CD

    400watt 4ch. marine amplifier

    Single channel 1000 watt class D sub amp

    Bose marine speakers/front

    Infinity 6x9s/rear

    10 inch Pioneer slim profile subs w/custom installation

    Recent Seating Upgrades

    Cabin upgrades include: carpet, custom shelving, (new) Raritain ceramic toilet/pump out tank holds 6 gal.

    260 hp 350 cu. Inch V8 OMC electric shift O/D maintained seasonally by single certified OMC mechanic

    16x14 prop/ 14x14 prop

    20hp Johnson kicker w/extension (adjustable bracket)

    5 new life jackets

    100’ anchor line and anchor

    Holescalw trailer/electric winch (w/remote switch)

    http://s44.photobucket.com/user/DangerDanphoto/slideshow/Boats

  4. I've been using these connectors for the past 5 years now. I've only had to replace one of the four that I purchased originally. They offer a flush fit and water tight connection with a cover that keeps the plug dry when not in use. I wired these plugs to fit through the gunnel and plug in at each rigger.

    281352.jpg

    http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=112199&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=10109&subdeptNum=10611&classNum=10615

    Doh!!! I see you've found them already.....

    I was thinking about using these, although the trolling motor plugs would work also:

    <a  href=%7Boption%7Dhttp://www.greatlakesfisherman.com/gallery/files/8/5/281352.jpg' alt='281352.jpg'>

  5. Wouldn't you like to know.;)

    What, you can't remember what we were using last year?:lol:

    How come I don't see you signed up for the Brown Blast either? Your not going to chicken out are you?:tease:

    It was more of a prank question...

    and yeah, I remember...:D

    I'll get signed up.. Gears ready I only have to check my lube plugs...:eek:

  6. What did they have for cannonballs there i don't se any on their site?

    They have a pretty good selection on weights. Cannon balls and pancakes in #10 and #12, sharks in #10 and the silver #12#. Lighter weights as well.

    You may want to give them a call before heading over. I'm not sure where else you can get the black or silver sharks. Perhaps Tackle Haven.?.

  7. Not necessarily on the water but I always circle the trailer twice to check everything then stop and check again at the end of my block... OCD...?

    After launching and heading down the channel I usually say a quick silent prayer for saftey and a smooth trip. That, and I carry an old mermaid lure hanging on my windshield.. Nothing too weird I reckon.

  8. Thanks guys.

    I also completed my stereo system this summer. 1000w on the two subs and 400w to the bose and infinities. Man!! Its amazing how much sound it produces. It sounds pretty sweet at lower levels too. I have a Kenwood head unit but after using my MP3 it hasn't seen any action since..

    A little bottom paint and I think she's done... Cept maybe that stripper pole...:cool:

  9. The whole job ran about a grand...This guy does really good work too.

    I'm thinkin the poles were $150 and the canvass work about $400.

    The boat is a 1971 Slickcraft SS235.

    I removed and replaced all of the seating with what you see now. I had these carmel colored fold outs originally. I thought they took up too much space along with the jump seats next to the dog house. The replacements seating was much brighter and the small seats can me mounted behind the front seats or next to the dog house. Both areas have mounts installed.

  10. The wife recomended the boat's name.. I think she's implying I spend too much money on my boat.. Is that possible? :D

    Here she is a few years back.

    71Slickcraft.jpg

    And again with the new mooring cover, just in time for winter.

    100_0518.jpg

    Figured while it was in the canvass shop a more roomy bimini might be a good idea.

    100_0524.jpg

    Plenty of head room now.

    100_0521.jpg

  11. For my subs I'm looking at an empty gunnel compartment dimensionally about 30" x 27" x 5" deep. Just enough room to mount the sub in depth. This enclosure isn't sealed it has a passage for wiring to the transom/bulkhead. Like I say, a little poly fill and maybe a small port will do wonders. I'm not taking up any space though (this is only a 23' boat). It is what it is and will have to be designed around that. I'm pretty confident I'll get what I'm looking for.

  12. Hey Dan spent a little time on infinity website really like that speaker I would suggest a bandpass enclosure as it will really tighten it up and protect the speaker as well.

    One of the variables I was talking about in the pervious post is the fact that normal enclosures are non-existant unless you want to count behind bulkheads and gunnel box compartments. space is still a premium as this is a fishing boat. It's a tricky deal installing in these areas but with a little consideration and fiberglass or polyfill and some sensitivity adjustments, after adding the subs I'll be able to get the sound I'm looking for. I think I have enough space and things look like they will work out nicely. 1200W amp? nah....:D I'm thinking another 400w max. To be honest I'm a bit skeptical on manufacturer ratings anyways. In all at that point I'll be pulling about 40amps from my charging system (when I kick up the power) then and my alt. is rated for 94 amps which leaves me plenty of power to spare.

  13. Ok I am just gonna stick to fishing which is why I came here to begin with.

    Tight Lines

    Yeah... Not so fast..:D

    Let me torque your gourd for a bit. As I posted I'm running a set of 2ohm infinity kappas in the rear. The RMS (and I use this term loosley) are about 110w. My amp is rated to about 150w @ 2ohm and 100w @4ohm. I'm pleased with the sound I'm getting however when I push the amp I realize some distorion, (thats if I really push it). I'm running the majority of my music through an

    mp3 player so it's very compressed. If I bump my gains up to where I get the bass I'm looking for it's just a little to much for the kappas but if I turn it down a bit I loose to much base (on some songs) and find myself re-adjusting. (Maybe I'm looking for too much) Regardless, the kappas are only designed for so much. We're talking a pretty fine line here.

    My choices seem to be:

    add another pair of kappas in series bumping the ohms up to 4 and cutting my wattage in half but creating more head room, Or... adding a pair of subs.

    Now when I say add subs I'm not talking about 10s or 12s, I'm thinking 8s, more of a mid bass. The thing is installations in a cars and boats create so many variables and without knowing what everything is going to sound like before I cut holes takes a lot of thought.

    I've used a little extra time to experiment. I've tried some baffling with fiberglass behind my kappas in the the bulkhead with marginal results. (it's a little better though) Many people wouldn't notice the difference I'm looking for but I do, and like an old friend once said, "If your stereo sounds good to you, its a good stereo." So, I continue contemplating.

    I'll likely go with these subs.:

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7272_Infinity+Reference+850W.html

    Any thoughts?

  14. Based on passed experiences I'd tend to agree with the following:

    http://forums.turbobricks.com/archive/index.php/t-44237.html

    Overpowering the speaker is a no-no, and explained in simple physics and knowelege of an electrical circuit , power = v x a; and for a audio amplifier, the output is alternating current governed by the frequency of sound that the music contains.

    Low frequencies contain the most peak current, so over driving the sub will cause didtortion in the voice coil of the cone or driver.

    High frequencies on the other hand, require little amounts of current by comparison but have very high peak voltage and will usually cause excessive high frequency distortion before any speaker damage is done. It is the smaller diameters of the cone that produce the high's and larger diameters produce bass, driven by the excursion distance of the voice coil resonating the cone.

    If the peak frequencies that are amplified exceed the spec's of the cone, the circuit, both amp and speaker will be subjected to damage casued by heating of the coil or mechanical limits of the cone material - RIP!!! Or more common in a sub, the coil seizes due to long periods of overpowering. Since heat is the cause of this, the coil requires more current which over taxes the amplifier, and will blow the amp if not protected.

    Extended periods of overpowering can slowly degrade the cone material. Have you ever taken a piece of paper and folded it repeatedly? Eventually it tears apart easilly. This is what you're doing to your speaker by overpowering it.

    Accurate speaker and amp rating are done in RMS watts, not peak watts, so disrgard any manufacturer's rating based on peak handling performance, because this is solely dependant on the music or alternating current distribution from the amp and music you choose to play.

    RMS, or root mean square is the description of a balanced power distribution for a time weighted average across all frequencies the speaker is intended to reporduce, meaning this speaker or amp can handle X amount of power at X to XX frequecies over a given timed average interval.

    Underpowering cannot produce distortion in itself. The audible difference in sound is apparent, as Doug mentions above, but it is due to the fact that different frequiencies take different power levels to achieve a uniform balanced decible lever out ot the speaker. So when the power is too low, the low and mid frequencies are not getting the correct excursion of the speaker cone to accurately produce those frequencies. The minimum RMS value is the lowest power that is recommended to produce a balanced flat frequency response from the speaker.

    In general, the speaker should be able to handle far more power than the amp can put out. This way, speaker distortion never enters the picture, nor does overheating of the voice coil. This also ensures tha the amp doen't get overdriven, mostly because you would hear the amplifier disortion and turn it down before any amp damage is done. Also, turning up an amp and driving a speaker with noticable distortion can cause the speaker to be damaged because the alternating current for any given frequency gets out of phase with respect to another frequency. Think of it like one's pushing the cone while the other's pulling.

    I would choose an amp with an RMS rating that is 60% of the speaker RMS rating.

    It's a pretty interesting discussion on the issue.

  15. You think I should get a new battery with 1000 amps.

    Rich

    It's not so much the amperage that you'll need as it is "reserve capacity" You'll want to try to find a battery that will give you plenty of reserve capacity, a decent battery switch, perhaps even a combiner.

  16. Looks like all my new speakers have 4 ohms in them. So can I use a 4 ohm amp or use less than that. What brans should I get to?

    Caz

    you can use 2 ohm but it will cost more for the equipment. In reviewing your speaker specs I'd go with a 2 ohm system. You may need bass blockers for those 6 1/2" sonys. your speakers are indeed rated at 2 ohm so you can use an amp say 80 or 100w per channel.

    While I've been adding to my system gradually, I knew what components I would be adding and how I wanted my wattage configured. For instance, My rear infinity kapas are rated for 110watts RMS but 330 peak. I actually have 150w of power capability through 2ohm but I don't run my stereo full blast so max I probably only push between 40 and 80watts max usually going to the speakers.

    Now, my front speakers (the Bose) are 6 ohm. They are about as good a speaker as you can buy but are only rated for about ea 60 or 80watts RMS before clipping starts. by having a higher impedance I get "balance through design" not through adjustment though I still have the ability to adjust everything to my liking. In a matter of speaking I balance my speakers through impedance, then fine tune further adjustments. This gives me almost perfect response from my system. (Sorry, getting carried away)

    As far as a brand, it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. You can power your speakers with Wally World amps so long as you don't over power your speakers.

    I ran el cheapo amps from Walmart I dug out of my garage until I added a higher quality amp and my Infinity speakers. Just be careful. You have to understand that RMS and peak wattage mean totally different things. Though you can occaisionally go over the 80 watts you'll experience a serious drop in performance when you approach that level of power. Thats why I feel there is no need to overpower your system.

    Middle of the line equipment will give you great performance without having to spend the extra coin.

    Damn!!! this place beat my price by over 70 bucks.... Arrrrgh!

    http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15369

    I'm thinkin Crutchfield sucks!!!

  17. The trick to using less voltage from your battery is a low impedance system. Say you use an amp that has 2 ohm capabililties, and 2ohm speakers, you get more power going to the speakers without having to crank so much power through the amp. 4 ohm speakers are the norm. Les resitance = less power needed. You can actually get more power out of your amp too. If you use an amp thats rated @ 4ohms and try to run 2 ohm speakers you could fry your amp though.

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