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Posts posted by d-fresh

  1. 10'6" Daiwa Heartland dipsey rod with a twilli tip and a Daiwa Sealine 47LC is the best bang for your buck for a wire dipsey setup. Sure you can get away with a cheaper rod or reel, but kings will eventually destroy it. You could also break the bank on a $200+ reel and a $200+ roller rod, but they aren't necessary IMO, unless you fish a TON and/or beat the heck out of your equipment.

  2. We've had our probe for a few years, and we rarely use it anymore. Sure it's nice to know where the temp is at, but the fish don't really care on most days. They go where the food is at. It is nice to know the speed at the ball, but after you do it for a while, you'll be able to tell your speed based on the divers and/or rigger cables. It is a nice thing to have as a newbie, but it is definitely not needed IMO.

  3. I don't think the color matters all that much. We tend to mix it up, and I haven't really noticed one color standing out from the rest. I would however recommend that you ditch the mono and go with braid or wire. Mono divers have their place, but braid/wire divers are more versatile. Our wire divers have outfished our braid divers as a whole, but there are days where braid works better than wire. If you are fishing out deep and running them over 100' back, ditch the mono! Wire > braid as far as catching goes (on our boat), but braid is much more user friendly. Either one will be an upgrade over mono.

  4. The day started off badly. As we were getting ready to jump in the boat at the launch, we noticed our port/starboard lights were out. (Turned out to be a connection issue) We searched high and low in the dark with lights trying to resolve the issue, to no avail, so we stayed in the river until it was light enough to where we felt comfortable going out. We finally got lines set and started plucking away at fish. Most of our activity came in 140-180 FOW. Fish seemed to be scattered throughout the column as we took fish on 5 colors all the way down to riggers set at 100'. No setup really stood out, it was just steady action all morning. Green UV meat rig with a 10" show time spin doctor on a high diver and a moonshine flounder pounder plug on a full core were probably our best 2 producers. However, most of our fish came on meat rigs. I think we finished 15-17ish with 2 steelhead and good mix of kings/cohos.


  5. Thanks... Can you or someone else post a pic of a "Flounder Pounder" ?

    I am new enough to big lake fishing that i am still working thru being able to ID names/color combos of lures.

    thanks in advance.




    Most of the larger lure companies all have color charts with names on their websites. Print them off, laminate them, and leave them on your boat. You can even get copies at some of the tackle shops for free.

  6. Took us 2 hours and 40 minutes to fill our 7 man limit. Had a few kids on board and they had a blast. 10-11' of water, 1.5/2 oz with meat, 25-30' back on big boards, and 4 oz over the side. Speed 1.7-1.8 mph seemed to be the ticket. Anything with blue and red seemed to be the best, but I don't think it really mattered. I could see giant clouds of bait (3-4" shiners) swimming over the side of the boat all morning and we marked tons of bait on the sonar. Probably the fastest action I've ever witnessed in my 20 years on the bay. We had to throw 4 eyes back that were 18-22" long when we went to clear the lines and go in, and the kids lost quite a few fish too. Had a few throwbacks, but I'd say the keeper to throwback ratio was 5:1.


  7. I don't mean to disagree with people' date=' but I do offer a different opinion.

    I use 20# big game on my leaders and I am plenty happy with it (for 3 + years).

    Just have to set the drags right and not muscle the fish into the boat.

    I can see where the 30# would work for a more aggressive fish though.

    However, 20# works too, you just have to use it differently.[/quote']

    I think it's mainly the fluoro guys who are going to 30lb test, and the main reason for that is because fluoro doesn't stretch like mono. Remember the copper and/or leadcore will not give much at all as far as stretch. If you are going to use fluoro, you need the extra beef to handle big fish. You can get away with 20 or 25 lb mono because it has a little give to it. Running 20lb fluoro and 20lb mono are not the same thing as far as strength IMO. Not to mention the action is different because of the densities of the line are different. I think you get more rise/fall action using mono leaders because it floats, whereas fluoro sinks and acts more like an extension of the copper/core.

    After using a bunch of different combinations, we have settled on 25lb big game. I like the cushion it provides for each setup, and we haven't had any breakoff issues.

  8. I think you could do either, I have never tried, but I always thought that lead has a certain cadence in the water that made it dance. Plus lead is cheaper than the above metioned alteratives.

    I agree with this. Also, lead is much more user friendly than copper. You can literally run anything you want off of a rigger, a SWR rig is usually 2-3 colors but you can also run 5,7, 10 colors off of your rigger when the fish are deep and/or really boat shy.

  9. No i would not. Too far of a lead between your release and your lure. Also, the slider woudl get hung on the not at the backer core connection. Also, with a fish yanking on it, itd probably break the lead and chaff the sheathing....no, i would not recommend it

    I agree with the 2nd and 3rd parts. A big swivel could help, but you still risk having it get caught up at the knot and it's still going to wear on the sheathing. If you are ok with losing whatever is on your SWR and 2-3 colors of lead once and a while, run it! lol

    As far there being too much slack to reel up, who cares? If it gives you another shot at hooking a fish, it doesn't matter IMO. Obviously the bite/land ratio might not be that good, but even if it is 10/50, that's 10 more fish in your cooler!

    Would I do it? Nope, never have and probably never will. Can you do it? Absolutely, but I'd keep a close eye on the leadcore sheathing and the knot at the connection. You might go through a little bit of core and have to retie the connection from time to time, but I see no reason why you can't do it...it just might not be a good idea and could get expensive.

  10. You can always run a heavier ball, but that will also increase the odds of something breaking. Most use a 10 or 12 lb ball I think. Of course option B would be to just pay attention to what speed works on it and be consistent with it. If you catch fish at a 2.2 ball speed, 2.7 SOG, who cares if they are different, just match it! Also, you shouldn't have to designate a rigger to the probe and not put a rod on it! If you are going to send that extra noise, cable, ball through the water, you might as well have a set of hooks dragging behind it.

  11. He used Okuma Copper Line rods, Convector 45s with 300' of braid, 250' of 32#, and 30' of fluorocarbon. .

    Only 300' of backer? That seems a little light IMO. If the board is 50-100' out, that doesn't leave you much room for a big king to make a run. I would recommend going with a bare minimum of AT LEAST 150 yards of backer. Any less than that and you are going to be puckered up a little bit when that elusive 30lb king hits, sinks the board, and rips off 200' of line.

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