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wild at heart

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Posts posted by wild at heart

  1. Headed out after all the Easter stuff finished. Hit the lake at about 5. A lot rougher and colder that this am. Set up in 10 for browns and had a 3# ON A RIGGER IN THE FIRST half hour. Then hooked up with 11# laker. Got 3/4 of the way to Saug and turned back and picked up the biggest coho of the year. Then took a king about 12# on a red and black thin fin. Jumping like crazy. Hooked up right away with a 2nd nice king but he got off. 4 for 5 with 4 species.

  2. Holland Steelheaders 4/19

    Everyone is invited to our general membership meeting Tues night at the Bayshore Yacht Club next to the Yacht Basin Marina. Social hour starts at 6:00, food at 7:00, and Capt Willis Kerridge or Capt Brian Butts will be our speaker at 7:30. Come see all the new stuff the Holland steelheaders are up too. New tournaments, ideas, and plans for 2011. Prizes, raffles, and best of all NO CHARGE. Come join us, your freinds will all be there.

  3. copper to spro is the way to go. I've never wraped it twice and I dont use skrink wrap, if it starts to fray a little you can re=twist with your fingers. We always put all 1000' of wire on reel with no backing, a little more cost but much better. Wire lasts a long time and we just cut back as need. Wire can cause trouble winding on to mono.

  4. Phil. the warm water warm up really works for me. This year I re-winterized after our intial trip and the boat sat for about 2 weeks. Went back in an overheated at slow troll again. Hit it with the warm water again in the driveway and yesterday was fine.

    If you dont get all the water out of your power steering cooler it can crack

    the line. If thats all it is there not to expensive. Good Luck.

  5. go with the church walley boards, ready to go out of the package and alittle cheaper. Copper is the way to go, you dont need any special rod because its soft, but having bigger eyelets is a plus. The church board will drag 300 ft of copper easy. You set your drag just tight enough to not leak with clicker on and you will here 90% of your hook ups. Set board not to trip, reel it in and pop it off. Keep your rod tip pointed at the board till its close enought to lift. Deploy copper with clicker on and thumb on spool.

  6. Lake Michigan Tournament Alliance. You can read all about it in the Tournameny Trail mag or the latest Steelheaders mag and I think on the TT web site also. Basicily a govering group was formed of 12 TT directors and the 333 to unify the TT. They have set up a proceedure to handle protest's that all member tournaments will abide by and are working on standardizing some of the TT rules. More tournament are wanting to join also but they already have all the big ones. A very big step in the right direction if you ask me.

  7. Looks like these guys have taken a big step to return the integrity to our tournament trail. I hope their working on the "observer" rules/draw/system in their rule uniformity committee. Good job guys.

  8. Dave, 2oz should do the trick. Also the more spacing between boards the better. 90% of my tangles last year were caused by FISH on days when I had to run the boards tighter because of traffic. I dont know why some boats run boards so close together (10 to 20') when not in traffic. I like 50' between them mininum, and running like that is no more of a problem, and you cover more water. Copper is supposed to be a stealth presentation right. I also like long rods for my deep copper, 9'+. You need all the help you can get with copper to pull fish to the surface so you clear other board lines.

  9. Dave, I agree with Pioneer on 300/32 coming over FC might not work. One thing to remember about mixing cores and copper on the same side of boat, you need wider turns. The copper and cores do not take the same paths on turns and can cross without good spacing. This is one reason that we have elimanated all long cores for shorter coppers. I run a 300/45, 300/30, and a 150/45 on 1 side and a 300/45, 200/45 and a 100/45 all the time.

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