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cduced

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  1. for a permanent mount vhf then I need an antennae. It seems like 8ft is a pretty standard size. Is one this large necessary or would something smaller like either of these still give you enough transmitting power/range

    Did a quick search to see what sort of boat we are talking about. This is you right?

    DSCF2022.jpg

    I would think anything other than that whip antenna might be more trouble then anything. Maybe someone with a similar small boat willchime in with some ideas. -- Bud

  2. I'd recommend a permanent mount with a fixed antenna. You can probably get setup for under $200. No need for a separate battery. Listening they don't use that much power, only when transmitting. I have a basic standard horizon which I like for its fairly clear sounding speaker. There are a lot of inexpensive and good quality units available:

    http://www.boemarine.com/category/bb42629e-82be-497e-9e80-d5bebfdc48dd/vhf---fixed-mount?SO=PRICE_LOW_TO_HIGH

    -- Bud

  3. IC 9-18-2-5

    Trailers and semitrailers

    Sec. 5. A person may operate intrastate, or combined interstate and intrastate, in Indiana a trailer or semitrailer that is properly registered and licensed in another state if the trailer or semitrailer:

    (1) does not have a fixed terminus or permanent base in Indiana; and

    #1 is the one that will get you if you store the boat at your home in Indiana. Right? -- Bud

  4. arbogaster, Thanks very much for putting this together. I used it to put together a couple of copper reels. In my case, I think it over estimated the amount of line slightly. I was only able to fit about 90% capacity. Maybe because of the larger diameter of the copper throws it off a bit? Could also be the line counter I used - a Shakespeare that I never bothered to calibrate.

    Also, it works fine with OpenOffice/LibreOffice and Google Docs. -- Bud

  5. Just to throw some more confusion on this thread. I just opened a brand new Okuma CV30D to replace the drags and guess what - really nice carbon fiber drags. They were installed dry which is fine and some people prefer, but I greased mine and put it back together. Hard to beat this reel for $65.

    -- Bud

  6. Did you get the drags and power handles?

    Nailer, If you are asking me, I run my wire on CV30D's. That said, Tuna did about 4 of my Daiwa 47h reels that I use for short cores two years ago and I did go with the power handles and drag upgrades. Highly recommended and Tuna does great work.

    -- Bud

    EDIT: Never mind, by your other posts on this thread, I'm guessing your comment was directed to someone else :thumb:

  7. I think the New Buffalo Harbor issue cleared itself after they received a grant to dredge. Last year, the harbor was a little tricky while they dredged it but navigable. If it is like last year, just be careful south of the bridge and stay closer to the docks rather than hanging a sharp right after you go under. Also, watch your depth at the mouth especially if there is a swell. Seems to be deeper near the outer wall.

    There was a report a couple of weeks ago from someone who got out and got a couple of coho. Let us know how you do. -- Bud

  8. Bud, take a close look at the 2nd-4h guides as well, that is where the serious stress is located. Those are fairly easy to replace as well and much cheaper than a new rod. I am always happy to talk guys through fixing their own rods, so don't hesitate to get ahold of me if you get stumped.

    Thanks Tony, I'll check those as well. -- Bud

  9. PofC,

    I've run wire on some cheap Shimano TDR 7' rods for the past 3 seasons and for me they have worked well. At the end of last season, I did finally notice wear in the guide tips. I could throw the rods out and probably be ahead of the game but, sort of following what eyeful said, I am replacing the tips with Silicon Nitride tips. You can get these at places that sell rod building supplies (ie mudhole.com).

    That said, I'd love to have a couple of Tony's wireline rods! Have fun with the wire. You'll love it. -- Bud

  10. Is there anything else that I might be missing before I place an order?

    You will need some cleaner to clean out the old grease -- Alan recommends CRC Carb Cleaner. I used Dawn dish soap and water after cleaning with that and then hit everything with compressed air to dry it. The soap and water bath was probably overkill.

    Also, the bearings in the CV45L I just did had the dust covers with the retainer clips which I only figured out after I pried the dust covers off with a sharp nail. (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13.0). I'm leaving the covers off mine.

    Also, I had a problem with the drags from Tom's as they were too thick. I called and they are aware of the problem and sending new washers. Easy call to make and they are making it right. You'll know if you have a problem when you put the drag stack back together and mount it to the side plate as it will bind up.

    There is a little note about sanding the metal washers and bending the tabs at the end of the Alan Tani tutorial but if you get the right drags, you shouldn't need to do that.

    It's not necessary to replace any of the metal washers is it? It didn't look like it but just want to clarify.

    Nope.

    -- Bud

  11. This winter I am going to start a remod on an old 23 donzi fishing boat. My first plan is to clean up the hull, cockpit and deck. The blue hull has an extreamley cloudy look to it. I lightly buffed it and waxed it this spring. It helped out a little but it seams to be returning.

    What is a good buffing agent to use. I have absolutly no experiance with fiberglass so any help wpuld be appreciated.

    Thanks Steve

    Just to throw out my .02. If it is really bad, clean first, then wet sand with 220, 500, 800 and maybe 1000. Then, 3M Marine Super Duty Rubbing Compound, with wool (http://www.topoftheline.com/metabowoolpad.html), then 3M Finesse-it with a white foam pad (http://www.topoftheline.com/metabowoolpad.html), then wax with Collinite Fiberglass Boat Wax.

    It will shine like new and your arms will be huge. -- Bud

    PS. Here is some info from 3M. http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?eeeeeeO48qtezIfeSIfeeFXN0QaEEEE1-

  12. Are you thinking 7 for fishing or zipping around on the lake? I have a 20' Pioneer 197 Sportfish Center Console (http://pioneerboats.com/html/sport_fish.html). I fish it with myself and/or one, two or three of my kids, then head to the beach and pile 6 or 7 kids (cousins, friends, and what not) into it and run them around skiing, tubing, knee boarding, wake boarding, warren dunes, etc. Built well, easy to maintain and still comfortable enough to take the family. We keep it on a trailer and drag it to Florida without any trouble too. Maybe a slight downside is there is only a t-top for protection form the weather. This was my second full season with it and it really has exceeded my expectations. My wife will rarely admit it but she even likes it too. No porta-potty in the CC I have but there are many that have them but probably looking at something like a 22'er.

    Just a thought as an alternative to a bow rider.

    -- Bud

  13. I get out quite a bit solo but in New Buffalo. Just made my first solo trip with "Ray" my new Raymarine S1000 AP. What a treat and under $900. Drives a perfect straight line.

    In the past, I've run two riggers with fixed/free sliders with spoons and a wire dipsey w/ flasher and fly. This has been my goto solo setup.

    Sometimes, I change it up and run two dipseys (flasher/fly) with a rigger with slider and sometimes, I run a core of some sort, with a dipsey and a rigger with a stacker and a rigger with a flasher hanging off of it. Sort of depends what seems to be working best. You also want to make sure everything is working together just like with a normal spread.

    Hope this gives you some ideas and think about that auto pilot. If the S1000 will work for you, it is really affordable.

    -- Bud

  14. What where you running for mono between the diver and the plug ?. I'm not a big fan of snubbers but unless you beef up the mono you will break a few off..

    Good question. When I was getting started, I was using 25lb mono for my leaders between the dipsy and flasher with snubber. Lost a lot of gear until I switched up to 40lb floro. I assume that 40lb floro would be a good choice.

    -- Bud

  15. For some reason I've moved away from the j-plugs. I don't think I ran them at all last year. A couple of years ago I did run them on my divers and did well with them. I'll have to give that another shot. They are good off the cores too right? -- Bud

  16. I generally run a six rod spread on my small boat with two riggers, two wire dipseys and two leadcores off inline boards. I always run spoons on the riggers and leadcore and flasher/flies on the dipseys. Question is, are there guys who tend to run spoons off their dipseys rather than flasher/flies?

    -- Bud

    Edit: I shouldn't say "always" as there are times I run thinfins or stick baits...

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